OK alignment gurus...

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TwoBobsKJ

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So today I installed my JBA Gen 4.5 a-arms (finally - long story) and very happy with how easy the install went. Only hitch in the whole giddy-up was a broken bolt holding the horns to the inner fender - thing rusted up and broke off, so I get to dig into that in a couple of days.

Anyway, when I got everything back together and drove it to the shop for the alignment the camber and toe was obviously way off thanks to the new arms. But the technician - who I trust and has done a lot of work on my Jeep - could not get the caster right with the new arms. In fact, the caster is worse than with the factory arms. He said that he's got the cams adjusted as far as they'll go.

Here are the specs from an alignment in April with the factory a-arms:
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The specs today with the JBA arms:
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And here's the driver's side arm installed just cuz I want to show a pic of it :bleh:
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No more clanging A-arm-to-coil noises and it generally feels more "solid" up front but it still 'drifts' a bit thanks to the caster.

Thoughts?

Bob
 

HoosierJeeper

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Looks great...I installed mine just over a year ago and they've been great. Got it aligned perfectly. I see you cut the bump stop...I did the same thing and drilled a hole in the bump stop to give the zerk even more clearance.
 

ebelements

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You may need to shift the right side of the cradle forward some,or the right UCA is not made correctly.

Possibly stupid question here. I couldn't tell the difference between the arms when I got them, they look the same to me. Is that not the case?
 

TwoBobsKJ

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Possibly stupid question here. I couldn't tell the difference between the arms when I got them, they look the same to me. Is that not the case?

They are symmetrical - they can be installed on either side since they're identical.

Bob
 

WickedBruce

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I had to take mine to three different places or something like that because they said the bolts were maxed out. Took it to Applehill 4x4 and they called me in 20 minutes and said it was done and ready to go. They said they didn't have to do anything special....
 

TwoBobsKJ

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You may need to shift the right side of the cradle forward some,or the right UCA is not made correctly.

Troy, I crawled under the Jeep tonight and was looking at the cradle bolts. The motor mounts are bolted to the cradle, the engine is connected to the ******, the ****** mounts are fixed...

So how can the cradle be moved?

Bob
 

tjkj2002

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Troy, I crawled under the Jeep tonight and was looking at the cradle bolts. The motor mounts are bolted to the cradle, the engine is connected to the ******, the ****** mounts are fixed...

So how can the cradle be moved?

Bob
The 4 bolts that hold it to the body(one on each corner).

Older KJ's like '02's actually have centering bolts on each side of the cradle.
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a_ibrahem

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Hey Bob,

have done the alignment today ,have similar issue with stock Arms Caster is on max adjust as per mechanic ,

see attached report ,looks similar to yours might be same machine or something :)
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any ideas ?

BR,
Ahmed
 

TwoBobsKJ

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Well, I know with the stock A-arms the caster is not going to be within specifications, so the camber is the priority. The caster helps to center the wheels after a turn so not critical to tire wear. I think you'll be fine.

I'm concerned that the JBA arms are not enabling the caster to be within specs as JBA describes. Not terribly concerned but more disappointed.

Troy, I know the four cradle bolts can be loosened but with the engine mounted to the cradle and the ****** is fixed to the trans crossmember I'm at a loss to see how the cradle can be moved. What am I missing?

Bob
 

tommudd

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It can be moved a small amount
Chris' was moved by just hitting a curb
he tried for years to get a good alignment but couldn't
The alignment guy I use found the problem
( of course Chris has yet to move it back to where it belongs ) :Insane::Insane::icon_eek:
 

tjkj2002

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Well, I know with the stock A-arms the caster is not going to be within specifications, so the camber is the priority. The caster helps to center the wheels after a turn so not critical to tire wear. I think you'll be fine.

I'm concerned that the JBA arms are not enabling the caster to be within specs as JBA describes. Not terribly concerned but more disappointed.

Troy, I know the four cradle bolts can be loosened but with the engine mounted to the cradle and the ****** is fixed to the trans crossmember I'm at a loss to see how the cradle can be moved. What am I missing?

Bob
48" prybar:birgits_tiredcoffee

Bigger tires require less caster.less caster makes turning bigger tires easier,granted to little caster makes a fun drive at highway speeds(wonders,ultra sensitive steering).I had to add a steering stabilizer to my front end to produce enough drag to slow my steering down at highway speeds and I have 4 degrees of caster.
 

a_ibrahem

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OK so back to same shop for alignment after the JBA arms installed ,

and nothing came within the factory tolerance ,before the arms Toe and Camber where ok only caster was bad

now the same guy cant get anything within the factory settings ?

any advise ?
 

u2slow

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Well, I know with the stock A-arms the caster is not going to be within specifications, so the camber is the priority. The caster helps to center the wheels after a turn so not critical to tire wear.

I immediately noticed a stronger return-to-center effect after adding my front wheel spacers.

The lift put the camber slightly out, which I put up with till I got the arms. With the arms, the camber got even worse.... like this: \----/

I dialed all 4 cam bolts 90* (now maxed out) and now its real close to |----|

Adjusted the toe and centered the steering wheel with the help of a tape measure.

Its nice to not have to drop $100 at an alignment shop every time you mess with your front suspension. :anitoof:
 

tjkj2002

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I immediately noticed a stronger return-to-center effect after adding my front wheel spacers.

The lift put the camber slightly out, which I put up with till I got the arms. With the arms, the camber got even worse.... like this: \----/

I dialed all 4 cam bolts 90* (now maxed out) and now its real close to |----|

Adjusted the toe and centered the steering wheel with the help of a tape measure.

Its nice to not have to drop $100 at an alignment shop every time you mess with your front suspension. :anitoof:
The 1st part is due to changing the SAI.The front cam bolt is mainly camber and the rear cam bolt is mainly caster.God knows what your caster is,might have negitive caster now.
 

a_ibrahem

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Another shop made alignment for camper and toe ,they say caster on max adjust
How you guys align caster with JBA arms ?
 

Cardhu

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Another shop made alignment for camper and toe ,they say caster on max adjust
How you guys align caster with JBA arms ?

I told my alignment guy the same thing most follow on this board. Camber at -0.4 (negative 0.4), caster as much as you can, should be 2- 3.5 degrees depending on amount of lift. cross caster less then 0.5 degrees. Toe set to normal.

To which my good alignment guy said "Oh, so your concerned about tire wear and your ok with having less caster?"

Biggest challenge is finding the alignment guy that listens instead of looking for green lights.
 
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