New Rear Springs?

[Charlesthe2nd]

Hey everyone. I have, what seems to me like a simple question, that I cannot find a definitive answer for. Just a lot of conflicting stuff out there.

For the last 3 years, I've been running the frankenlift II premium w/ HD front. It's been great so far, but on my last trip I realized that my rear was really sagging with the extra weight of camping gear. I have the Komodo rear bumper w/ tire carrier and fuel/hi-lift carrier, so I know that the rear already has a good bit of weight with just that on it. Add in all the other stuff, and I'm driving down the highway blinding people and bottoming out while off roading. This is not ideal, and limits what I want to do while overlanding.

What I think I want to do is replace the rear springs with something that will eliminate/minimize the sagging, but not kill ride quality when theres not a big load. Looking at just upgrading to the JBA 4" springs/shocks.

What is my best option when it comes to fixing the sag in the rear suspension?

 

[tommudd]

Hey everyone. I have, what seems to me like a simple question, that I cannot find a definitive answer for. Just a lot of conflicting stuff out there.

For the last 3 years, I've been running the frankenlift II premium w/ HD front. It's been great so far, but on my last trip I realized that my rear was really sagging with the extra weight of camping gear. I have the Komodo rear bumper w/ tire carrier and fuel/hi-lift carrier, so I know that the rear already has a good bit of weight with just that on it. Add in all the other stuff, and I'm driving down the highway blinding people and bottoming out while off roading. This is not ideal, and limits what I want to do while overlanding.

What I think I want to do is replace the rear springs with something that will eliminate/minimize the sagging, but not kill ride quality when theres not a big load. Looking at just upgrading to the JBA 4" springs/shocks.

What is my best option when it comes to fixing the sag in the rear suspension?

Well first depending on how many miles you have on yours but if its bottoming out etc then yes new springs and shocks are in order.
NOW the issue is you're going to be using 4 inch springs when the front has now sagged some, so you'll be butt high.
So first thing we need to know is where your front is sitting at to determine the best springs/ best route for you
Measure from middle of the wheel to very bottom of the flare in front and report back.
Also with the weight of camping grear, the bumper you have ( I have one as well so know the weights etc) you may want to look into either the coilover shocks I am running or using airbags in your new springs when you replace

 

[Charlesthe2nd]

Well first depending on how many miles you have on yours but if its bottoming out etc then yes new springs and shocks are in order.
NOW the issue is you're going to be using 4 inch springs when the front has now sagged some, so you'll be butt high.
So first thing we need to know is where your front is sitting at to determine the best springs/ best route for you
Measure from middle of the wheel to very bottom of the flare in front and report back.
Also with the weight of camping grear, the bumper you have ( I have one as well so know the weights etc) you may want to look into either the coilover shocks I am running or using airbags in your new springs when you replace

Ok, I went and took the measurements 21" in front and 19.5" in rear. I just replaced the rear tires, duratracs 265/75/16, so the rear has full tread and the front has about half tread, not sure if that matters. My kayak is on top + all the gear so maybe another 100lb on top of the bumper w/ fullsize spare and 3' hi-lift. I've never heard of people running coilovers or air bags in the rear, but I'm very interested.

I do not want to be butt high, just maintain proper ride height and be as close to level as possible.

 

[tommudd]

Ok, I went and took the measurements 21" in front and 19.5" in rear. I just replaced the rear tires, duratracs 265/75/16, so the rear has full tread and the front has about half tread, not sure if that matters. My kayak is on top + all the gear so maybe another 100lb on top of the bumper w/ fullsize spare and 3' hi-lift. I've never heard of people running coilovers or air bags in the rear, but I'm very interested.

I do not want to be butt high, just maintain proper ride height and be as close to level as possible.

Well if the fronts only at 21 you only have 2 inches of lift in the front, so there would a 2 inch difference front to rear. Man those 265-75s must be real close in front . If you don't want to touch the front you could get by with OME rear springs again. I would highly suggest doing an in spring air bag or the Monroe Sensatrac coilovers for a 99-04 Dodge Dakota 4 wheel drive to help with the loads
Should have all 4 tires replaced at the same time, depending on the transfer case could cause binding
Duratracs are good tires, have over 80,000 on my 265-75-16s

 

[Charlesthe2nd]

Well if the fronts only at 21 you only have 2 inches of lift in the front, so there would a 2 inch difference front to rear. Man those 265-75s must be real close in front . If you don't want to touch the front you could get by with OME rear springs again. I would highly suggest doing an in spring air bag or the Monroe Sensatrac coilovers for a 99-04 Dodge Dakota 4 wheel drive to help with the loads
Should have all 4 tires replaced at the same time, depending on the transfer case could cause binding
Duratracs are good tires, have over 80,000 on my 265-75-16s

I intend to get the other tires this week coming up. As for the suspension, I can't believe it's sagged that much in just 3 years. What if I was to fix the front too, and just go with 4", what is my best option?

 

[4x4kayak2112]

If you want HD springs that WILL hold up the weight, I can get some made up for ya. Just let me know what height.

JBA rear springs are very weak, rated like stock, the OME are a little better, 50 more lbs over JBA. But the ones I get are a bit more.

Im the pic you can see im running 32.2" tire and have 4" lift with no extras except for the HD spring. It holds up tge weight real nice.

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[4x4kayak2112]

Or if you dont want HD springs, buy new OME springs and the monroe shocks.

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[tommudd]

I intend to get the other tires this week coming up. As for the suspension, I can't believe it's sagged that much in just 3 years. What if I was to fix the front too, and just go with 4", what is my best option?

Sounds like you have quite a bit of extra weight with camping gear etc so you need a good setup for those times
Air bags in the rear springs allows you to adjust to the load , so when fully loaded for a weekend trip air them up, get home / unload let some out. Works good for a lot of folks.
The load levelers ( what they used to be called ) work good as well, been running them over 100,000 miles, on my second set.
Front you have the Frankelift so you know how it works, check out the various lifts on jeepinbyal, everything from full spring like OME and Ironman up to the adjustable coilovers for the front
4 inch rear springs and load levelers

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[Charlesthe2nd]

If you want HD springs that WILL hold up the weight, I can get some made up for ya. Just let me know what height.

JBA rear springs are very weak, rated like stock, the OME are a little better, 50 more lbs over JBA. But the ones I get are a bit more.

Im the pic you can see im running 32.2" tire and have 4" lift with no extras except for the HD spring. It holds up tge weight real nice.

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Thanks for the reply Kayak! Your jeep is nice!! I really like the way it is riding!

Wish I had gone with the 4" lift from the get go, rather than getting the Frankenlift. Why do yall think that it has sagged this much in just three years? Can that really be normal? Is the JBA adjust-a-strut along with the 4" rear springs and shocks going to hold up for longer than 3 years? I am interested in your springs, as long as they'll hold up, and don't kill my ride quality.

Yea Tom, I'd say that when camping, there's an extra 500lb on the rear end, and then add 2 more passengers and you get the idea. What I don't want to do is ruin the ride when it's completely unloaded, so the load levelers seem to fit the job. How do they hold up when 4-wheeling? I spend a lot of time rock crawling in the sierras or rallying through the deserts when I go camping with the misses. I like the way that Jeep is riding as well, the 4" makes those 32" fit perfect. Think it could do the rubicon trail?

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[4x4kayak2112]

The OME springs are sagged because the spring rate is just 50 lbs over stock and theres alot of weight off the back end.

The HD springs have been tested for a while now. I personally have ALOT of weight hanging off mine and its still golden. The person who tested them out first has a RL rear with a 33" tire and full jerry can, two entire tool boxes full in the back, plus tons of other things. He towes his 19ft low boy with ATVs every weekend and still sitting within 1/8" of when he got them new.

I believe I can get them for you in ~4" lift and 2.5" lift

For the Rubicon you will need 33+" tires, front and rear lockers at bare minimum in order NOT to take alot of the bypasses

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[Charlesthe2nd]

For the Rubicon you will need 33+" tires, front and rear lockers at bare minimum in order NOT to take alot of the bypasses

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Yea, I know, I still want to try though!! :gr_grin: I've got ARBs front and rear so that part is covered. I think with 32s and some body damage, she'd get through!

Those springs are exactly what I need, do you have a price on them? Also, how do you like the 4" JBA coil overs, ride quality good? Did you have to get cut CV shafts?

Sorry to be asking so many questions

 

[4x4kayak2112]

I LOVE my JBA coilovers, expensive but they are amazing.

Both of my KJs have napa reman CVs. I didnt need the cut CVs on either of mine.

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[M38 Bob]

" so the load levelers seem to fit the job. How do they hold up when 4-wheeling? "

Not Tom, but I've sold/used/recommended Monroe Load Levelers (or whatever they're calling em now). The springs on them are variable rate. If you look at one you'll notice the botom 2-3 coils are closer together. When installed these lower coils almost touch, which keeps the ride normal. With an additional 500lb, those coils close together(letting the vehicle lower approx 1 inch) and the rest of the much stiffer spring then is much stiffer with no noticeable lowering from the next 500lbs. Monroe states they add an additional 1,200 to 1.500 lb load capacity.

By using the longer Durango shocks on lift springs there's no reason the function should be any different.

Bob

 

[tommudd]

" so the load levelers seem to fit the job. How do they hold up when 4-wheeling? "

Not Tom, but I've sold/used/recommended Monroe Load Levelers (or whatever they're calling em now). The springs on them are variable rate. If you look at one you'll notice the botom 2-3 coils are closer together. When installed these lower coils almost touch, which keeps the ride normal. With an additional 500lb, those coils close together(letting the vehicle lower approx 1 inch) and the rest of the much stiffer spring then is much stiffer with no noticeable lowering from the next 500lbs. Monroe states they add an additional 1,200 to 1.500 lb load capacity.

By using the longer Durango shocks on lift springs there's no reason the function should be any different.

Bob

Yep so true,
with mine setup the way it is ( Kilby gas tank skid, RL bumper with both swing outs , 80-100 lb of tools, parts, plus other crap, ) mine rides just the way I want it to, flexes great off road, when hooked to either one of my trailers, squats maybe 1/4-1/2 inch depending on the load. Sitting at over 4.5 inches of lift so with fully loaded trailer down to 4 at the very most
For me I don't want a stiffer spring , what I have works and works well.

To the OP, the coilovers are so much different than anything I have had on the front ( which have been OME 927s, OME 790s, Ironman HDs and the JBA coilovers of course. Best ride, handling etc ever in any 4WD I have owned in the last 40 plus years

 

[u2slow]

I added the Monroe load-assist coilovers for the rear (Dakota application). Picked up an inch, and it rides about the same.... maybe a touch firmer - hard to tell.

 

[4x4kayak2112]

Only reason why I didnt go with the Monroe load assist shocks is becuase they arnt 26"+, so I would be loosing flex in the rear. Im about to install some 30" shocks here in a few weeks. But thats another topic entirely

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[tommudd]

They are the same length as the Rancho RSx's, the OMEs and Bilsteins that we all still run and ran for a long time. Not as long as the Ironman though of course. So while 4X4Kayak wants the extra length they work for most of us.
All depends on what you want and where ya are:icon_lol:

 

[Charlesthe2nd]

Yep so true,
To the OP, the coilovers are so much different than anything I have had on the front ( which have been OME 927s, OME 790s, Ironman HDs and the JBA coilovers of course. Best ride, handling etc ever in any 4WD I have owned in the last 40 plus years

Y'all have really given some great info here! Thanks for all the quick replies and testimonials. Not sure if I should get the higher spring rate and longer shocks that 4x4Kayak is talking about, or if I should go with the 4" springs with the monroe load assist levelers. I'm definitely interested in getting the coil overs, as the ride on my lib has been getting progressively worse over the past 6-12 months. I've been looking for the Ironman 4" lift parts but no luck. 2.5" is nice, but the less I have to bypass, or turn around at, the happier I'm going to be. It pains me tho that I paid 1200 + install for the Frankenlift Premium 2, and it's already useless. Such a ******* bummer, and waste of money. :favorites68: Good think I've got a well paying job!! Just trying to figure out exactly what I'm going to need to bring it up to 4", and what the best products to do that are.

 

[tommudd]

Y'all have really given some great info here! Thanks for all the quick replies and testimonials. Not sure if I should get the higher spring rate and longer shocks that 4x4Kayak is talking about, or if I should go with the 4" springs with the monroe load assist levelers. I'm definitely interested in getting the coil overs, as the ride on my lib has been getting progressively worse over the past 6-12 months. I've been looking for the Ironman 4" lift parts but no luck. 2.5" is nice, but the less I have to bypass, or turn around at, the happier I'm going to be. It pains me tho that I paid 1200 + install for the Frankenlift Premium 2, and it's already useless. Such a ******* bummer, and waste of money. :favorites68: Good think I've got a well paying job!! Just trying to figure out exactly what I'm going to need to bring it up to 4", and what the best products to do that are.

First there isn't a 4 inch Ironman or OME lift
Ironman gives you 2.25 inches over new stock height, OME 2.5 inches over the same. SO, if you are wanting 4 inches then you'll need to add on the ironman or OME some extras like clevis and top plate etc.
If I was you I would go for the adjustable coilovers from JBA in front ride is better than stock, Frankenlift , well anything else .
Of course when you get into that 4 inch range there will be some extra issues with CVs etc, well some do some don't but just be ready.
For the rear , you'll have to look over the choices and see which way you want to go. we've gave you some things to consider and if you have any questions just ask:icon_lol:

 

[the_dealer]

You can give Deaver a call and have some progressive rate coils made based on how much extra weight you normally carry. On road ride doesn't suffer, and loaded you'll get no more sag.

Sent from my G870a on 38's.