Me and My '05 Limited, Riding On Air

[Jim McClain]

Jim here is my 2 cents worth
I would get the shocks and springs you have listed
then in the front just do the top plate for 3 inches of lift
Rear do one extra upper iso per side ( so 2 on top , with new one on the bottom
You are right if you are doing it right just replace them
But everything else looks fine on the list

3 inches of lift will not cause a lot of headaches down the road.
Another thing to add may be the rear u-joints. Depending on when they were changed ( or if they ever have ) when going to a different angle sometimes they will give you vibes.

So, no clevis spacers and no conduit nuts? I have edited my parts list in my first post to remove the extraneous parts and to add the u-joints. The rear driveline has 3 u-joints, from what I gather, so I should get all 3 and the straps too? I chose Spicer over Moog u-joints because there were too many disappointing reviews on the Moogs. The Spicers are more expensive, but they have great reviews.

The new list is copied below.

My Parts List

• JBA Upper Control Arms (in)
• Y-Link Extension (in)
• Front Coilover Assembly
  • OME 2927 front Coil Springs (in)
  • OME 90009 struts (in)
  • Moog K3189 & K3190 Front Strut Mounts
  • Moog K3186 Coil Spring Insulators (isolators)
• JBA Strut Spacer Plate Set
• Moog K80767 Ball Joints
• OME 2948 Coil Springs (in)
• 1903200 TeraFlex Bump Stops (ordered)
• Rear Bump Stops [hockey pucks] (in)
• OME N132L Shocks (ordered)
• Rear lower coil spring isolator (2)
• Rear upper coil spring isolator (4)
• JBA SS Brake Hose kit for 2½" lift
• Spicer 5-153X U-Joint Kit (3?)
• GMB 260-0443 Auto U-Joint Straps (3?)

 

[HoosierJeeper]

I have Moog U joints and they seem alright. Anything that says super strength for U joints is generally ok. Can't go wrong with Spicer. And there's only 2 U joints, one on each end of the rear driveshaft. Don't think you need the U joint strap. Not really even sure what they do. Stock there aren't any.

Are you going greaseable or non greaseable? I would actually recommend non greaseable. They're stronger and, with it being a PITA to grease greaseable ones, with my luck I thought I'd ruin them that much quicker. Your stock ones are non greaseable and have lasted 110K miles and probably have some life left in them still.

 

[Jim McClain]

I have Moog U joints and they seem alright. Anything that says super strength for U joints is generally ok. Can't go wrong with Spicer. And there's only 2 U joints, one on each end of the rear driveshaft. Don't think you need the U joint strap. Not really even sure what they do. Stock there aren't any.

You're right, I was looking at the wrong diagram. Don't know how it could be possible to get so much mis-information on the Interweb. Here's the actual diagram for a 2005 Jeep Liberty, 4WD Auto-transmission:

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Are you going greaseable or non greaseable? I would actually recommend non greaseable. They're stronger and, with it being a PITA to grease greaseable ones, with my luck I thought I'd ruin them that much quicker. Your stock ones are non greaseable and have lasted 110K miles and probably have some life left in them still.

My search trough several 4WD-oriented forums and articles shows the greasable/nongreasable u-joint debate alive and well. For me, it comes down to the fact that I can't do my own oil & lube jobs, so do I trust whoever does it will remember to grease the u-joints and will they do a good job of it. The answer for me is non-greasable u-joints. :gr_grin:

Now what amazes me is that MOPAR wants more than 60 bucks for a u-joint and you can find high (prob'ly even highER) quality u-joints by Moog, Dana/Spicer and others for less than half the cost.

Thanks for the help in making important decisions (I'm talking to all the participants in this thread). This is exactly why I have loved forums for over 20 years and am especially glad to have found JeepKJ Forums.

 

[CactusJacked]

I use Spicer heavy duty greasable u-joints in all my projects, and is what I put on my driveshaft. I want the availability to grease things, and the zerk fittings are well within easy access. If you had a high hp street/strip vehicle, or a dedicated rock crawler where you're jumping the axle, I might, might think about non-greasable. But our putt-putt engine is not going to split open a greasable u-joint while on the street or trails.

 

[Jim McClain]

Today UPS delivered the OME N132L shocks and the TeraFlex Bump Stops.

I did some research and found a shop in Reno that I will have do the Spicer non-greaseable U-Joints for a reasonable price. They have the facility to balance the driveline, if necessary and this is their primary business, so I think it's what I should do - right after the lift is done and front end aligned.

I updated the parts list in my first post. It's also below for your reading pleasure.

My Parts List

• JBA Upper Control Arms (in)
• Y-Link Extension (in)
• Front Coilover Assembly
  • OME 2927 front Coil Springs (in)
  • OME 90009 struts (in)
  • Moog K3189 & K3190 Front Strut Mounts
  • Moog K3186 Coil Spring Insulators (isolators)
• JBA Strut Spacer Plate Set
• Moog K80767 Ball Joints
• OME 2948 Coil Springs (in)
• 1903200 TeraFlex Bump Stops (in)
• Rear Bump Stops [hockey pucks] (in)
• OME N132L Shocks (in)
• Rear lower coil spring isolator (2)
• Rear upper coil spring isolator (4)
• JBA SS Brake Hose kit for 2½" lift

 

[profdlp]

Jim, how soon is this happening? I was under the impression this was a ways off. You ready to rock & roll?

 

[Jim McClain]

No, it's gonna be a while longer. I don't have a regular income beyond my military pension, which is already spread thin. But once in a while someone donates to my forum or I help someone with a website and get a little extra spending money. Even though I'm poor, I still want quality parts. It may take longer, that's all.

 

[Jim McClain]

Got 2 more parts via UPS today. I ordered Moog K3189 & K3190 Front Strut Mounts on ebay, from a reputable dealer. I've ordered from them before and they have a 99.8% rating, which is very good for a big dealer.

The parts came together in a larger box - MUCH larger - and it was banged up pretty good, broken open on the side and one top flap completely undone. I worried that something could have fallen out of the box. Perhaps it was a lot more of the puffy bags shippers use to keep small items from moving around.

I opened the box and found 2 boxes, both a different size. The larger box had the Moog K3189 I ordered, but the smaller box had an odd part that had a part number on the plastic bag and stamped on the part that turned up zero results on Google. I put the correct part in the smaller box and found that box was a little too small - it would have fit if the studs didn't have the plastic sleeves on them.

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I sent an email to the ebay seller, so I'm sure the part switch problem will be solved. But another thing that bothered me is that these parts were made in India. I don't know if that means the parts are lower quality, but I am familiar with the reasons why manufacturing is farmed out to foreign countries, which could mean less quality control, lower tolerances for fitment and workers employed in depressed conditions.

Should I have ordered from a different manufacturer? Has Moog (Federal Mogul) lowered their standards. I still have lots of parts to order, so I want to make the right decisions. I care much more about quality than price.

 

[Jim McClain]

Got a reply back from the ebay seller asking for a photo of the parts I received. Less than an hour after I sent it, they sent me a UPS shipping label and said they would ship the correct part out to me right away. No hassle, just the way I like it.

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Surprised I haven't gotten any replies about the quality of Moog parts or what brand parts you prefer. C'mon, don't be shy.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Got a reply back from the ebay seller asking for a photo of the parts I received. Less than an hour after I sent it, they sent me a UPS shipping label and said they would ship the correct part out to me right away. No hassle, just the way I like it.

You must be registered for see images

Surprised I haven't gotten any replies about the quality of Moog parts or what brand parts you prefer. C'mon, don't be shy.

Glad the seller stepped up - good customer service is often a fading memory...

As for Moog parts... I've never had a problem with them, though I can't say that I've used a lot of Moog stuff on the KJ. What I've purchased for the Jeep has always worked, fit correctly and lasted as long as I expected. Sway bar links, sway bar bushings, lower and upper ball joints are what's on there now - no problems.

As they say, YMMV but I see no reason to shy away from Moog :waytogo:

Bob

 

[Jim McClain]

The ebay seller did right by me. The correct part was waiting for me when I got home from Reno, NV today. Now I am only shy the 4 isolators to have all the parts necessary to build the front strut assemblies.

I read a post here somewhere that said the OME 2927 coil springs were too stiff to take a chance on those rental/cheap spring compressors. I had thought about buying a set and trying to do the assembly myself, but I sometimes forget that my lung disease has made me very weak and not as steady as I once was. I found a set with safety pins for less than 40 bucks and thought I could sell them off after I was done with them.

Then, while I was driving away from the auto glass shop, there was a shop there on the same block that specialized in suspensions. I stopped in and asked if they could assemble the struts. The guy at the desk seemed confused and not very pleasant. I was getting frustrated because I thought I wasn't explaining myself very well. There was another guy in the room messing with some paperwork. I decided it would be best if I just leave, especially when the desk guy said he thought they could do what I wanted for the hourly rate (105.00) and it would probably take a couple hours.

I know from reading all these posts on JeepKJ.com that it don't take that long to assemble a strut. Looking at the parts, if it wasn't for the equipment needed and the strength and stamina, I could prob'ly do both in less than an hour. So, I turn on my heels and start to leave (I was being rude, I think), when the paperwork guy said, "'scuse me, sir, don't leave yet. I'd like to ask you a question."

I turned back around and he wanted to know what parts I was bringing in and whether they were new or used parts. I rattled off the list and told him everything was new. He said "about sixty bucks," bring them by any time and he'll get them done while I wait. The desk guy thanked him, I thanked him and I feel like that was a great price and a really good save. Instead of walking out frustrated, with a pissy attitude, I left in a good mood and excited to be getting that part of the job done real soon.

 

[tommudd]

The ebay seller did right by me. The correct part was waiting for me when I got home from Reno, NV today. Now I am only shy the 4 isolators to have all the parts necessary to build the front strut assemblies.

I read a post here somewhere that said the OME 2927 coil springs were too stiff to take a chance on those rental/cheap spring compressors. I had thought about buying a set and trying to do the assembly myself, but I sometimes forget that my lung disease has made me very weak and not as steady as I once was. I found a set with safety pins for less than 40 bucks and thought I could sell them off after I was done with them.

Then, while I was driving away from the auto glass shop, there was a shop there on the same block that specialized in suspensions. I stopped in and asked if they could assemble the struts. The guy at the desk seemed confused and not very pleasant. I was getting frustrated because I thought I wasn't explaining myself very well. There was another guy in the room messing with some paperwork. I decided it would be best if I just leave, especially when the desk guy said he thought they could do what I wanted for the hourly rate (105.00) and it would probably take a couple hours.

I know from reading all these posts on JeepKJ.com that it don't take that long to assemble a strut. Looking at the parts, if it wasn't for the equipment needed and the strength and stamina, I could prob'ly do both in less than an hour. So, I turn on my heels and start to leave (I was being rude, I think), when the paperwork guy said, "'scuse me, sir, don't leave yet. I'd like to ask you a question."

I turned back around and he wanted to know what parts I was bringing in and whether they were new or used parts. I rattled off the list and told him everything was new. He said "about sixty bucks," bring them by any time and he'll get them done while I wait. The desk guy thanked him, I thanked him and I feel like that was a great price and a really good save. Instead of walking out frustrated, with a pissy attitude, I left in a good mood and excited to be getting that part of the job done real soon.

Thats great and lots better than trying to use some of those cheap compressors, which would of been a very bad idea.
I refuse to use those on any upgraded aftermarket springs

 

[HoosierJeeper]

That's a decent price. I just had my driver's side redone, shop charged $20.

 

[profdlp]

I paid $80, and that was for the cut-rate incompetents who took two tries to get it right.

 

[dude1116]

I paid $100. Good on ya!

 

[tommudd]

Everywhere is a little different, I've seen, heard, paid anywhere from 20 each to 80-85 for the pair.

 

[Jim McClain]

Today is payday - I knew I volunteered to get shot at for 18 months in Vietnam for some reason - so I'm getting ready to order more parts for my suspension. Some of these may not be on the average lift parts list, but I don't want to wish I had done it later. Gonna try to kill a whole buncha birds with one stone (well, one trip to the lift shop). But of course, I have questions too.

1. On my list is the Moog K7391 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit. Is this the part I want or should I get the Extended Front Sway Bar End Links, since I'm getting a 3" lift?
   
   
2. Am I okay with a Stainless Steel brake hose kit for 2.5" lift, or do I need to get the 4" one for my 3" lift job?

That'll do for now. I want to make sure I order the right parts.

 

[tommudd]

Today is payday - I knew I volunteered to get shot at for 18 months in Vietnam for some reason - so I'm getting ready to order more parts for my suspension. Some of these may not be on the average lift parts list, but I don't want to wish I had done it later. Gonna try to kill a whole buncha birds with one stone (well, one trip to the lift shop). But of course, I have questions too.

1. On my list is the Moog K7391 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit. Is this the part I want or should I get the Extended Front Sway Bar End Links, since I'm getting a 3" lift?
   
   
2. Am I okay with a Stainless Steel brake hose kit for 2.5" lift, or do I need to get the 4" one for my 3" lift job?

That'll do for now. I want to make sure I order the right parts.

Never needed or wanted extended sway bar links and never ran stainless steel brake hoses either. Brake hoses will be a nice upgrade and the 2.5 will be fine for you

 

[Jim McClain]

Thanks to everyone for all the great help. Seems like my list keeps growing. I updated the parts list in my first post. It is duplicated below.

My Parts List

• Y-Link Extension (in)
• Moog RK621376 Control Arm With Ball Joint
• Rear Bump Stops [hockey pucks] (in)
• OME N132L Shocks (in)
• OME 2948 rear Coil Springs (in)
• Rear lower coil spring isolator (2)
• Rear upper coil spring isolator (4)
• JBA Upper Control Arms (in)
• Front Coilover Assembly
  • OME 2927 front Coil Springs (in)
  • OME 90009 struts (in)
  • Moog K3189 & K3190 Front Strut Mounts (in)
  • Moog K3186 Coil Spring Insulators (4)
  • JBA Strut Spacer Plate Set
• Moog K80767 front lower Ball Joints
• Moog K7389 front lower Control Arm Bushing
• Moog K200161 Sway Bar Bushing Kit
• Moog K7391 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit
• 1903200 TeraFlex Bump Stops (in)
• JBA SS Brake Hose kit for 2½" lift

Please let me know if you think it needs to be edited.

List edited 11/2/16 5:10am

 

[tommudd]

I'd just replace the whole rear UCA arm instead of trying to replace the bushings/ ball joint. Some have done it , others haven't due to the metal being so thin that it bends when trying to push the old ones out.