PNWJeeper
New Member
- Joined
- Jun 19, 2024
- Messages
- 3
- Reaction score
- 11
I finally got the wife's new key fob cut & programmed, now we've got a spare. Dang life was simpler before fobs!
What did you do to your jeep today?
- Thread starter TheQ
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Looks like I did something to the axle seal when I removed the CV and intermediate shaft the other day when I was replacing the suspension.
I noticed some oil on the fender liner, which led me to discover this.
Thoughts?
You must be registered for see images attach
I noticed some oil on the fender liner, which led me to discover this.
You must be registered for see images attach
Thoughts?
duderz7
Full Access Member
Any links to good deals on that? every time I look into it I almost barf and keep hoping my single key never fails me or gets lost.
duderz7
Full Access Member
You get to take it all apart again and replace the seal. Upgrade to the roller bearing while you're there. It's likely the stock plastic bearing is allowing too much movement causing the leak.
I have the seals and bearings sitting in the basement, along with a limited slip differential for the front diff… I need a running Jeep right now so I think the option is to grab a used front diff from LKQ and upgrade it. Then I can swap it in later, and the Jeep won’t be down for so long. I was going to regear at the same time… I don’t have the gears yet and keep going back and forth in my head between 4.10 to get the Jeep back into the stock torque band for mileage, or 4.56 for towing power… (the KK can be geared that low).
I had good luck getting the keys off of Amazon for about $20 per, IIRC (yes, these are Transponder keys) and having the guy at ACE Hardware program them. Of course this is a "depends on the knowledge/termperment of the dude doing the work" sort of thing.
You will need the PIN code for this to work, if you don't have a second transponder key. Only way to get that is to physically go to the dealer parts department (they won't do it over the phone, nor should they for good InfoSec) with proof of ownership of the car (registration should suffice) and the VIN number. They will literally send an email to a bot on the Jeep dealer network, which will reply with the PIN. WRITE THIS DOWN somewhere, either physically or electronically (depending on your preference). This number is worth its weight in gold for key work.
BTW, this process at the dealer should cost you $0. Again, depends on how much of a douchenozzle the individual wants to be.
Once you have two functional transponder keys, there is no need for further specialty work- you can "program" the vehicle to accept a new transponder key DIY, up to 8 keys total (for my 05 model).
Links to youtube are available. Should be easy to find. LMK if you need help. I went through this about 6 months ago.
EDIT:**To repeat- if you have two functional transponder keys (functional defined as, will start the vehicle and run for more than 5 seconds or so, ie, you can take it around the block), you DO NOT need to have them programmed. You can DIY...
Last edited:
So, nothing physically done today, but I am on a mission....
05 3.7L V6, 4x4, Renegade package, with 6 speed...
The stock parking brake- is a *************.
There, I said it.
I have replaced and adjusted as per the FSM, every part of it. No improvement. If the vehicle is on any sort of incline, the parking brake won't stop the vehicle rolling. I have to park with the vehicle in gear- which isn't a huge problem, but I'm also wanting to finish my remote start.
Yes, remote start... on a MT. YES, it can be done safely- but the ****** parking brake is a deal stopper.
Options:
1- add springs to the assemblage, in order to increase preload. They worked for about a week. Not dependable. NOPE
2- delete the clockwork clutch spring in the lever. This is a distinct possibility. Might work. Thoughts are to machine a delrin or wooden bushing to replace the clock spring, disassemble the lever assembly, removing the clutch spring (seriously, WTF where they even on?) and "chuck it in the **** it bucket"... (A distinct possibility, but not sure I want to go that far into trying to make a piss-poor assembly work, as I'll also have to figure out how to machine a channel in the delrin or wood biscuit that will replace the spring, to guide the cable to the parking brakes into. Seems more like "guilding a ****" the more I think about it.)
3- delete the parking brake entirely, leaving the handle. Abandon/remove the parking brake drums and hardware, and go to an electric parking brake, like out of a Tesla. This is a standalone brake, no hydro circuit to plumb, that is actuated by reversing-polarity (to actuate/deactuate) circuit to authoritatively clamp the dedicated parking brake caliper. This will get a bit expensive (roughly $100/caliper, two needed... then imagineer a bracket to mount to the axle, then the electronics to control the brakes- which need not be electronics (in terms of a PCB and drivers, etc), could be as simple as some switch logic and a few relays and momentary switches. Bonus: anti-theft feature. This would be an immobilizer if you did it right, and the only way to move the vehicle would be to know how to use it. Projected cost- likely $400 or so, between buying the calipers, sussing out the mounting, and then the electrical control. But hey.. learning!
(it would be little effort to run this off of the OE parking brake lever, or one could just put a button on the dash and leave the parking brake lever abandoned in place. Hell, you could abandon all of the factory parking brakes in place, leaving them to still act as though they are a parking brake, while the electrical bits do the work.)
4- Similar to 3, but do it at the TC. This would require a SYE, as you'll need a flange to be able to bolt the rotor to. Then you will need to figure out how to mount the caliper to the TC to stop the rotor and act as a parking brake. BUT- you only need one caliper, saving quite a bit of money. Cost- probably around $500, but you're getting a SYE, along with its greater flexibility, in return. IE: if you have a rear driveshaft casualty in a stock Liberty- it's time to call a tow. With a SYE, drop the shaft, put it in 4-hi, and drive home as a FWD Jeep. Also, stronger shaft. Some will say overkill.. I say there is no such thing as overkill, only "Cover me while I reload"...
To that end, I am looking at a SYE as my next project on the Liberty, as soon as I rebuild and reinstall the front shaft (and find a place to build me a rear shaft to go with a SYE (for the new folks who might not know: a SYE is a Slip Yoke Eliminator. The name is the thing- the shaft has to change length for the suspension to be able to move without punching the gears out of the transmission. The factory has the slip yoke in the tailshaft of the transfer case. If you've serviced the rear shaft- when you pulled the shaft out of the transfer case, the splined shaft is the slip yoke. When you eliminate that, you are sealing the back of the transfer case and leaving a fixed flange in its place (shortening the assembly, and requiring a different driveshaft- typically a little longer, and it has to be retubed so that there is a slip joint in the driveshaft now).
So, now I am researching potential donor shafts, and their lengths. This was easy in an XJ - typically a 3" lift on one of those, you'd grab another front shaft, and you're good. Not so sure it will be so easy for the KJ. I know that I won't need (or want!) a CV shaft in the back, to begin with. I'd rather not have one in the front to be honest... mainly because I am having a hell of a time finding a good front shaft CV joint band tool to get a good seal with (if anyone has a recommend on that, I would be thankful- told my son (the pro Jeep mechanic in the family) I'd buy him the tool for his effort, if he will find it for me. He hasn't had time.
So..... TLDR: anyone got info on a SYE, and shaft length after doing one, on a 3" lifted 05 KJ?
Also, what's the spline count on the output shaft of an 05 KJ with a NP231?
Also, what's the tool I need to make reliable CV band closure?
05 3.7L V6, 4x4, Renegade package, with 6 speed...
The stock parking brake- is a *************.
There, I said it.
I have replaced and adjusted as per the FSM, every part of it. No improvement. If the vehicle is on any sort of incline, the parking brake won't stop the vehicle rolling. I have to park with the vehicle in gear- which isn't a huge problem, but I'm also wanting to finish my remote start.
Yes, remote start... on a MT. YES, it can be done safely- but the ****** parking brake is a deal stopper.
Options:
1- add springs to the assemblage, in order to increase preload. They worked for about a week. Not dependable. NOPE
2- delete the clockwork clutch spring in the lever. This is a distinct possibility. Might work. Thoughts are to machine a delrin or wooden bushing to replace the clock spring, disassemble the lever assembly, removing the clutch spring (seriously, WTF where they even on?) and "chuck it in the **** it bucket"... (A distinct possibility, but not sure I want to go that far into trying to make a piss-poor assembly work, as I'll also have to figure out how to machine a channel in the delrin or wood biscuit that will replace the spring, to guide the cable to the parking brakes into. Seems more like "guilding a ****" the more I think about it.)
3- delete the parking brake entirely, leaving the handle. Abandon/remove the parking brake drums and hardware, and go to an electric parking brake, like out of a Tesla. This is a standalone brake, no hydro circuit to plumb, that is actuated by reversing-polarity (to actuate/deactuate) circuit to authoritatively clamp the dedicated parking brake caliper. This will get a bit expensive (roughly $100/caliper, two needed... then imagineer a bracket to mount to the axle, then the electronics to control the brakes- which need not be electronics (in terms of a PCB and drivers, etc), could be as simple as some switch logic and a few relays and momentary switches. Bonus: anti-theft feature. This would be an immobilizer if you did it right, and the only way to move the vehicle would be to know how to use it. Projected cost- likely $400 or so, between buying the calipers, sussing out the mounting, and then the electrical control. But hey.. learning!
(it would be little effort to run this off of the OE parking brake lever, or one could just put a button on the dash and leave the parking brake lever abandoned in place. Hell, you could abandon all of the factory parking brakes in place, leaving them to still act as though they are a parking brake, while the electrical bits do the work.)
4- Similar to 3, but do it at the TC. This would require a SYE, as you'll need a flange to be able to bolt the rotor to. Then you will need to figure out how to mount the caliper to the TC to stop the rotor and act as a parking brake. BUT- you only need one caliper, saving quite a bit of money. Cost- probably around $500, but you're getting a SYE, along with its greater flexibility, in return. IE: if you have a rear driveshaft casualty in a stock Liberty- it's time to call a tow. With a SYE, drop the shaft, put it in 4-hi, and drive home as a FWD Jeep. Also, stronger shaft. Some will say overkill.. I say there is no such thing as overkill, only "Cover me while I reload"...
To that end, I am looking at a SYE as my next project on the Liberty, as soon as I rebuild and reinstall the front shaft (and find a place to build me a rear shaft to go with a SYE (for the new folks who might not know: a SYE is a Slip Yoke Eliminator. The name is the thing- the shaft has to change length for the suspension to be able to move without punching the gears out of the transmission. The factory has the slip yoke in the tailshaft of the transfer case. If you've serviced the rear shaft- when you pulled the shaft out of the transfer case, the splined shaft is the slip yoke. When you eliminate that, you are sealing the back of the transfer case and leaving a fixed flange in its place (shortening the assembly, and requiring a different driveshaft- typically a little longer, and it has to be retubed so that there is a slip joint in the driveshaft now).
So, now I am researching potential donor shafts, and their lengths. This was easy in an XJ - typically a 3" lift on one of those, you'd grab another front shaft, and you're good. Not so sure it will be so easy for the KJ. I know that I won't need (or want!) a CV shaft in the back, to begin with. I'd rather not have one in the front to be honest... mainly because I am having a hell of a time finding a good front shaft CV joint band tool to get a good seal with (if anyone has a recommend on that, I would be thankful- told my son (the pro Jeep mechanic in the family) I'd buy him the tool for his effort, if he will find it for me. He hasn't had time.
So..... TLDR: anyone got info on a SYE, and shaft length after doing one, on a 3" lifted 05 KJ?
Also, what's the spline count on the output shaft of an 05 KJ with a NP231?
Also, what's the tool I need to make reliable CV band closure?
Last edited:
Similar threads
Members online
No members online now.