Lift help

[profdlp]

Do you want a 1.5" lift or a 3.5" lift? Looks like the tommudd can handle a lot more weight up front, too.

 

[tommudd]

I would imagine that tommudd would think so. :bowroflwerd6:

(When I can afford it, that's what I'm likely to get.)

Doesn't matter to me, both are good kits overall
One thing the OP is missing is the fact that with the OME he will get 2.5 inches of lift, with the TM Econo will be 3.75 so depends on how high you want to go.
The OME can be made to get that height but of course you'll need clevis / top plate in front and 4 extra isolators in the rear
Think it over

 

[TheSurvivor]

Doesn't matter to me, both are good kits overall
One thing the OP is missing is the fact that with the OME he will get 2.5 inches of lift, with the TM Econo will be 3.75 so depends on how high you want to go.
The OME can be made to get that height but of course you'll need clevis / top plate in front and 4 extra isolators in the rear
Think it over

Ok thank you Tom. One more question which one do you think would last longer?

 

[tommudd]

Ok thank you Tom. One more question which one do you think would last longer?

Hard to say really, a lot depends on your driving habits and where you drive. 50,000 on a smooth Interstate Highway is much different than dirt / gravel roads with lots of potholes.
All said and done my first OME lift lasted way past what stock springs would have. I removed it with 100,000 miles on of course it had sagged some
I expect the Ironman should last with similar results which the TM Econo uses in front

 

[TheSurvivor]

Hard to say really, a lot depends on your driving habits and where you drive. 50,000 on a smooth Interstate Highway is much different than dirt / gravel roads with lots of potholes.
All said and done my first OME lift lasted way past what stock springs would have. I removed it with 100,000 miles on of course it had sagged some
I expect the Ironman should last with similar results which the TM Econo uses in front

Ok I've decided to go with the econo lift and was wondering if I still need to get bumpstops? Or anything else I need to get? Also how difficult will it be to install it? And which clevis spacer do I pick?

 

[KJScott]

yes get the terraflex bumpstops, you need them. Get the rear bumpstops JBA offers also, unless you do the hockey puck method. If you are going with the full kit- front and rear; check JBA's pricing, it was cheaper for me to buy the TM front kit, then the JBA 4" rear coils, rear shocks, and y link extension, rather than the complete front/ rear kit. JBA A arms are the best, high quality welds and real ball joints, and proper angle. And do the lower ball joints too, with real Moogs.

Clevis spacers- go ahead and get the .50 ones. I did the 3/8 ones and was not happy, not enough lift. If you don't like them and it is too high, I will be happy to mail you my 2 weeks used 3/8" ones, for nothing. That quarter inch difference equates to a half inch of fender height. Why? I don't know, Tom was right though.

If you do the lower ball joints, you will be pulling the CVs. If you do, I highly recommend replacing the axle seals with only Mopar seals, about $21 each. Don't use another brand. See my other post string about axle seals and doing them 3 times......

Just think about "what can I replace since I am already tearing things apart". If it is a low price part, just replace it now. And presoak all of your bolts/ nuts. Get a 15, 18, 21mm sockets and wrenches. You will use those for this job.

Check your rear spring upper snubbers, (upper bumpstops) Mine looked and had the strength of mud dobber nests. Dry rot. Get new ones from 4wdparts.com

You will need to extend your rear brake lines. Do so with lowering brackets which is a how to on this site.

I love the ride of my TM Econo kit. No comparison with what I had, rides awesome, and everything is tight, like a brand new vehicle.

 

[KJScott]

one more thing, do not torque any bolt unless you have a jack under the lower control arm supporting the full weight of that front corner. Have everything almost tight of course before and have the jack stand in place still, but if you torque bolts with everything hanging will guarantee squeeks, even an artificial too much lift as a result of binded bushings.

 

[TheSurvivor]

yes get the terraflex bumpstops, you need them. Get the rear bumpstops JBA offers also, unless you do the hockey puck method. If you are going with the full kit- front and rear; check JBA's pricing, it was cheaper for me to buy the TM front kit, then the JBA 4" rear coils, rear shocks, and y link extension, rather than the complete front/ rear kit. I highly recommend getting the A arms as well. They are the best, real ball joints. And do the lower ball joints too, with real Moogs.

Clevis spacers- go ahead and get the .50 ones. I did the 3/8 ones and was not happy, not enough lift. If you don't like them and it is too high, I will be happy to mail you my 2 weeks used 3/8" ones, for nothing. That quarter inch difference equates to a half inch of fender height. Why? I don't know, Tom was right though.

If you do the lower ball joints, you will be pulling the CVs. If you do, I highly recommend replacing the axle seals with only Mopar seals, about $21 each. Don't use another brand. See my other post string about axle seals and doing them 3 times......

Just think about "what can I replace since I am already tearing things apart". If it is a low price part, just replace it now. And presoak all of your bolts/ nuts. Get a 15, 18, 21mm sockets and wrenches. You will use those for this job.

Check your rear spring upper snubbers, (upper bumpstops) Mine looked and had the strength of mud dobber nests. Dry rot. Get new ones from 4wdparts.com

You will need to extend your rear brake lines. Do so with lowering brackets which is a how to on this site.

I love the ride of my TM Econo kit. No comparison with what I had, rides awesome, and everything is tight, like a brand new vehicle.

Oh wow there was a lot more to consider then I though, so thank you for share that with me. Also you were right it is cheaper to get the rest separate. I added the front and rear bump-stops to my order and it was still cheaper haha.

 

[KJScott]

Yeah, I don't know if it is an oversight by JBA, or what, but it is cheaper separately.

 

[TheSurvivor]

Yeah, I don't know if it is an oversight by JBA, or what, but it is cheaper separately.

Ok so I have a question for you about your lift. Do you have any issues with your CV's? And how much lift did you actually get?

 

[KJScott]

No issues at all. over 4 inches would be of concern. I'm probably 3.25 over stock. I'd be more concernedwith factory lower ball joints. They were junk.

 

[TheSurvivor]

No issues at all. over 4 inches would be of concern. I'm probably 3.25 over stock. I'd be more concernedwith factory lower ball joints. They were junk.

Do you think I should just replace them then when I have the lift put in?

 

[tommudd]

Check the ball joints and see if they need replaced or not. I always check them on the lifts I do, very seldom are they needed

 

[KJScott]

My lowers were shot. And I hate doing things over again. I would if it was me but I don't know your mileage or if they were warranty replaced before. Peace of mind that I replaced them I guess

 

[TheSurvivor]

I bought my jeep with roughly 63000 and it was owed by an older couple who traded in for a newer jeep. It now has just under79000

 

[TheSurvivor]

Check the ball joints and see if they need replaced or not. I always check them on the lifts I do, very seldom are they needed

Tom is there anything that I should consider just replacing while the Im doing the lift?

 

[KJScott]

Mine had 128k on them. It was time.

 

[TheSurvivor]

This is what I have ready to order.. Am I missing anything?

 

[KJScott]

You have done well young Skywalker. When you get the kit let us know

 

[Snail Farmer]

I don't see any top plates on there. If you're going 4" in the rear and Ironman in the front, I have a feeling you're going to have a lot of rake. I would definitely recommend getting the top plates also.

http://jeepinbyal.com/jeep-liberty-kj/front-struts-for-kj/jba-strut-spacer-plate-set.html