JBA A-Arm rebuild

[Homeward_Bound]

Ordered a rebuild kit for my UCA's. Ball Joints and bushings. Any tips or tricks to get the a-arms out? Socket list? Thanks.

Edited for clarity.

 

[tommudd]

Pretty simple , just unbolt the existing ones,
( maybe able to do without taking them out, but I always remove them )
all parts etc to rebuild is in the kit
pretty self explanatory really

 

[Homeward_Bound]

Pretty simple , just unbolt the existing ones,
( maybe able to do without taking them out, but I always remove them )
all parts etc to rebuild is in the kit
pretty self explanatory really

Probably should have been more specific. Getting the A-Arms out of the Jeep. Complete rebuild bushings and ball joints.

 

[tommudd]

Just two bolts per side holding the UCAs in after you pop the ball joint loose
The bushings then can be pressed out and back in
Did you install the UCAs ?

 

[Homeward_Bound]

.........I get it, 2 bolts per a-arm. I can see that when I look at how the a-arm works. Are you going to offer any advice on getting the drivers side out or just be an ***? In other posts you say you've done over 50 installs. But nothing further on advice or tips. If you have nothing actually constructive to add, please move on.

 

[John P.]

If it helps I get to the UCA bolts from the top, just like changing the strut. It's been awhile so I'm not sure why I decided to do it that way. Anyway, hope it doesn't give you too much grief.

 

[duderz7]

Remove battery and air box for a better view. Passenger not too bat to reach, but driver side you'll want enough extension you'll be turning your ratchet near the radiator. A swivel near the socket is helpful. Don't remember hardware size. You should only have to turn the nut on front as the bolt has a stop tab that keeps it from spinning. Watch the hard brake lines on the driver side too.

 

[tommudd]

.........I get it, 2 bolts per a-arm. I can see that when I look at how the a-arm works. Are you going to offer any advice on getting the drivers side out or just be an ***? In other posts you say you've done over 50 installs. But nothing further on advice or tips. If you have nothing actually constructive to add, please move on.

Well since I finally read this and caught up, I thought you had it
I think it is pretty easy
I mean yes it takes some time to get down to the bolts but its simple
but if you look, you can see what needs removed, what needs to be shoved over
Did not think you needed a b.l.o.w. by b.l.o.w. write up, from opening the hood to being done closing it , SORRY
But since you called me names , hope you figured it all out
Boy oh boy, some folks

 

[John P.]

I remember when Tom used to be everyone's friend

 

[tommudd]

I remember when Tom used to be everyone's friend

Still am, I treat people just like they treat me
You want to know something ask, like above, say I do not know what I am doing so enlighten me
and I will , ask vague questions and then call someone names because I didn't read your mind,
well that is life and I don't have time to play games and guess what some are wanting
So I can be your friend or not, doesn't bother me one bit , not losing a bit of sleep here

 

[John P.]

I was referencing Tom from myspace, the one friend you could never delete. Lol. You do give good advice when it's given. I understand after years things get repetitive

 

[Homeward_Bound]

If it helps I get to the UCA bolts from the top, just like changing the strut. It's been awhile so I'm not sure why I decided to do it that way. Anyway, hope it doesn't give you too much grief.

The flag bolt and nut will be soaking in PB Blaster. It's been about 50k since they went in coupled with salted roads will make them more than likely seized. Waiting on new hardware to come in because I know I'm going to shear those bolts.

Remove battery and air box for a better view. Passenger not too bat to reach, but driver side you'll want enough extension you'll be turning your ratchet near the radiator. A swivel near the socket is helpful. Don't remember hardware size. You should only have to turn the nut on front as the bolt has a stop tab that keeps it from spinning. Watch the hard brake lines on the driver side too.

I've been watching any YouTube videos I can find on the subject which apparently isn't much and they only focus on the Passenger side. Thanks for the suggestion and advice. Still waiting on the LCA's and additional hardware to come in.

 

[iakj11]

The drivers side is definitely a challenge. IIRC it was difficult to get at one of the two bolts on that side because of the steering linkage. Like was mentioned above - extensions and wobble adapters will get the job done. After 15 midwest winters, the bolt in the bad location on mine had rusted to the metal part of the bushing. Stop tab broke on that one and an epic stuggle ensued.