JBA 4 Link Install Directions

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03silverrenegade

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I have a bolt on JBA Tri-Angulated 4 link with chrome moly ends that I want to install. I plan on installing new rear control arms as well. Would anyone be able to point me to good directions or give me a removal/install sequence? How difficult would this install be without a lift? Thanks
 

tommudd

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I have a bolt on JBA Tri-Angulated 4 link with chrome moly ends that I want to install. I plan on installing new rear control arms as well. Would anyone be able to point me to good directions or give me a removal/install sequence? How difficult would this install be without a lift? Thanks

Very easy to do and no lift needed
Did mine right on the ground for the 4 link, lower control arms would help to have the rear off the ground some as you may need to wiggle the diff around some to align the holes
As far as the 4 link, do it after the LCAs ( oh and tighten the LCAs with full weight on the ground
Now the 4 link, remove the old setup, then then new, making sure to keep the rear pinion angle where you want it to be
PM me if you need more info, I had the original in and out at least 50 times
and of course some thread lock on the bolts into the rear diff
 

TheBlueKJ

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As another person who has done it. You will more than likely need to cut an inch of thread off of each link as the way it comes is too long for anything less than 6 inches of lift since they are the same arms used in the JBA 6 inch kit


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wheeee32

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As another person who has done it. You will more than likely need to cut an inch of thread off of each link as the way it comes is too long for anything less than 6 inches of lift since they are the same arms used in the JBA 6 inch kit


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That's good to know.
 

03silverrenegade

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That's good to know as well. How high are you sitting in the back. I think I'm at 22.25. How did you cut it? Hack saw and vice grip I'm assuming? How did you decide on on an inch? Tom did you do any cutting?
 

TheBlueKJ

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I decided on an inch because in JBA's pics there are no threads showing and that was how much I had on each end. I used a angle grinder with a cutoff wheel made short work of it. And I believe I'm at 22 in the rear havent measured in a long time


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TheBlueKJ

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And just to clarify the reason I had that much showing was because the threads were bottomed out in the joint


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tommudd

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I decided on an inch because in JBA's pics there are no threads showing and that was how much I had on each end. I used a angle grinder with a cutoff wheel made short work of it. And I believe I'm at 22 in the rear havent measured in a long time


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Thats my picture showing no threads
and the way I did mine:gr_grin:
 

dude1116

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That's the reason I went with the IRO arm. To be installed soon. Have it all greased up and put together. Just need to swap them now.
 

dude1116

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reason being?

Shouldn't have to cut the threads on a $600 part. It should just work...

Plus I saved myself $200 getting the IRO arm and bracket. Which will flex just as good as I will ever need and still grants me adjustability.
 

tommudd

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Shouldn't have to cut the threads on a $600 part. It should just work...

Plus I saved myself $200 getting the IRO arm and bracket. Which will flex just as good as I will ever need and still grants me adjustability.

Modifications make the world go round :happy175:
Plus JBA part breaks, you have some one on the phone in a little bit
Not knocking the set up you have its good but .....
 

dude1116

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Modifications make the world go round :happy175:
Plus JBA part breaks, you have some one on the phone in a little bit
Not knocking the set up you have its good but .....

IRO was pretty great as far as customer service goes. There was a small misunderstanding in our order. I sent one email off and they corrected it immediately.

I understand that modifications make the world go round. But charge me $600 and I have to cut up your metal? Not quite OK with me. The part is ridiculously over priced as it is. Which is understandable because it's custom...but why make it custom if it won't fit most applications? Or if it's specifically ONLY for a 6 inch lift...why not state that on your site?

I'm not knocking JBA at all. I've ordered quite a lot of things from him and I think GENERALLY he makes good stuff. I think his business tactics can use some improvements though (and spellcheck...).

Guess I'm just salty because I had no indication of needing to modify the already expensive 4-link when there is nothing on his site saying that lower lifts might have to modify it when this was the initial route that I wanted to go.
 
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tommudd

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IRO was pretty great as far as customer service goes. There was a small misunderstanding in our order. I sent one email off and they corrected it immediately.

I understand that modifications make the world go round. But charge me $600 and I have to cut up your metal? Not quite OK with me. The part is ridiculously over priced as it is. Which is understandable because it's custom...but why make it custom if it won't fit most applications? Or if it's specifically ONLY for a 6 inch lift...why not state that on your site?

I'm not knocking JBA at all. I've ordered quite a lot of things from him and I think GENERALLY he makes good stuff. I think his business tactics can use some improvements though (and spellcheck...).

Guess I'm just salty because I had no indication of needing to modify the already expensive 4-link when there is nothing on his site saying that lower lifts might have to modify it when this was the initial route that I wanted to go.

No quite sure where you came up with its for 6 inch lift, its for any even 2.5 inch.
Plus the bracket for the rear diff scares me, with various ones making a few then moving on, and no real backing if something happens to it, you're out. Just my thoughts
 
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03silverrenegade

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JBA Link

Well I installed the rear lower control arms myself. I paid a shop to install the jba upper control arm, they cut off about an inch on each side.

For the rear lower control arms, in order to remove the rear passenger side arm the muffler must be removed off the hangers and pushed down on in order to remove the upper bolt.

The reason for replacing all that was that my rear was out of alignment and had a wobble and sounded like I was driving over cobblestones. BTW everyone on here was claiming my axle was bent. After replacing the lower control arms myself I felt a huge difference. The lower bushing on the passenger side was trashed, and the rest were in rough shape. The noise began right after I had lifted it and gradually became worse. After getting my 4 link installed the shop aligned my truck and the rear was all within specs.
 

smittyfromPA

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Well I installed the rear lower control arms myself. I paid a shop to install the jba upper control arm, they cut off about an inch on each side.

For the rear lower control arms, in order to remove the rear passenger side arm the muffler must be removed off the hangers and pushed down on in order to remove the upper bolt.

The reason for replacing all that was that my rear was out of alignment and had a wobble and sounded like I was driving over cobblestones. BTW everyone on here was claiming my axle was bent. After replacing the lower control arms myself I felt a huge difference. The lower bushing on the passenger side was trashed, and the rest were in rough shape. The noise began right after I had lifted it and gradually became worse. After getting my 4 link installed the shop aligned my truck and the rear was all within specs.

How does it ride on the pavement now? Been thinking about this mod but I usually drive between 1 to 4 hours before I even get to the trails.
 

tommudd

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Well I installed the rear lower control arms myself. I paid a shop to install the jba upper control arm, they cut off about an inch on each side.

For the rear lower control arms, in order to remove the rear passenger side arm the muffler must be removed off the hangers and pushed down on in order to remove the upper bolt.

The reason for replacing all that was that my rear was out of alignment and had a wobble and sounded like I was driving over cobblestones. BTW everyone on here was claiming my axle was bent. After replacing the lower control arms myself I felt a huge difference. The lower bushing on the passenger side was trashed, and the rest were in rough shape. The noise began right after I had lifted it and gradually became worse. After getting my 4 link installed the shop aligned my truck and the rear was all within specs.

Just cut the bolt and run a new one in from the outside , faster and easier
 
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