"TRI-LINK Replacement

[XWrench3]

I am replacing the tri-link because its worn out. but I am having a terrible time getting the bolts to break loose. I have been spraying the bolts for 4 days now, and they still will not budge. I talked to a local repair shop and they said they have a lot of trouble also. and many times the bolts break off. I don't want that to happen, because I know what a chore that ends up making. I have tried hitting the bolts trying to shock them hoping it might help them break free. something that just popped into my head is I am assuming that these bolts thread into the chassis itself right? meaning that these do not have nuts, where if I broke the bolts, it really would not matter because I could just replace the bolts and nuts without issues. they are so close to the fuel tank I am concerned about using a torch on them. does anyone have a trick that would help me out? if I can get them moving, they will usually come out. //// also, if I can not get the ball joint nut to come loose, will the tri-link come out if i just break the ball joint nut off? I have never come across one of these before, so I really do not know what I am getting into.

 

[DadOSix]

I am replacing the tri-link because its worn out. but I am having a terrible time getting the bolts to break loose. I have been spraying the bolts for 4 days now, and they still will not budge. I talked to a local repair shop and they said they have a lot of trouble also. and many times the bolts break off. I don't want that to happen, because I know what a chore that ends up making. I have tried hitting the bolts trying to shock them hoping it might help them break free. something that just popped into my head is I am assuming that these bolts thread into the chassis itself right? meaning that these do not have nuts, where if I broke the bolts, it really would not matter because I could just replace the bolts and nuts without issues. they are so close to the fuel tank I am concerned about using a torch on them. does anyone have a trick that would help me out? if I can get them moving, they will usually come out. //// also, if I can not get the ball joint nut to come loose, will the tri-link come out if i just break the ball joint nut off? I have never come across one of these before, so I really do not know what I am getting into.

It has been a while, but i think they are captive nuts up into the frame. I use an impact gun (air) and go short blasts. I was always a bar and 6 point socket and long handle breaker setup, but with the jeep darn near on the ground, no room. Impact brings mine out. I pre-soak with some stuff called Free All that I got at auto-zone. I like it better than PB, WD, etc., as this stuff eats down the threads thru the rust.

 

[Will_K]

Tri-link I didn't have that kind of trouble, but I think I remember something being pretty subborn with a rear lower control arm andusing a breaker bar on the bolt and a floor jack to turn it a few degrees at a time then reset until I could move it with arm strength.

Which bolts specifically are giving trouble? The front bolts you don't have much alternative but they weren't any trouble on either of the 2 vehicles I've done. Beyond that, I unbolted the bracket on the axle and then dealing with the ball joint and the retaining bolt was much easier on the bench.

 

[XWrench3]

well, I got this done, but it was NO FUN! the through bolt for the ball joint gave me fits. but the worst part by far was when the threads in the body or frame came out with the bolt on the drivers side. the strange thing is the bolt did not come out all that hard. so I don't know if it was cross threaded at the factory, or somebody else tried to do something before me (the truck had both lower control arms replaced just prior to me buying it, and I know that because they both were brand new and had Mopar stickers still in place). I hope that Moog is still a good quality suspension part like it used to be. because i NEVER want to do that job again!