How To Starter Replacement

[Deb'nKJ]

Mine's a 2004, so it's the same - I assume.

Can't speak for the others as have no knowledge of them, although I have driven an Escape, but I agree they're not in the same league.

However, none of that explains why some things are needlessly difficult.

I could change the front drive shaft on an XJ in less time than it takes to remove the bolts on a KJ.

The airfilter box defeated my 1st 2 attempts to remove it & at the 3rd go, got very close to taking a hammer to it, as it had to come out - in however many pieces. Why? Because I was replacing the ABS sensor, having discovered the hard way, that it won't come out of the hub without destroying it!

For all its competence, I wouldn't risk taking one too far from civilisation because it's just too difficult to fix by the roadside - never mind out on a trail. I know people do & I have nothing but admiration & respect for them.

It somewhat depends on your year. Mine is the pre-facelift (2002), so it has a cable throttle body, etc. and is marginally simpler.

Overall though, if you consider how small this vehicle is, it is a marvel that they were able to pack a real 4wd system with mechanical TC, decent V6, IFS, ABS, etc., in one package. I can't think of another vehicle this size that has as many (real) functional features - not a RAV4, CRV, Escape, not even a wrangler (4 door is much larger).

 

[Trainmaster]

Just for the record, I've changed starters in several 3.7L 2005's. Removed the front drive shaft and didn't have to touch the exhaust.

 

[Celticlady]

I just did a starter on an 02 3.7l limited today, without removing the exhaust manifolds at all.

Tools needed;

3/8 drive 15mm 6 point deep and shallow sockets
3/8 drive 6" extension
3/8 drive air ratchet
3/8 drive impact
1/4 drive 13mm deep well socket, 6 point
1/4 drive 8mm deep well socket
1/4 drive 6" extension (preferably swivel type extension)
1/4 drive fine tooth ratchet
10mm ratchet wrench
small flat head or right angle pick
12" pry bar
small hammer (1/2lb ball pin worked just dandy)

I started by disconnecting the battery, then removing the driveshaft bolts on both ends, then adjusting it and sliding it up and out of the way.

After that, I took off the transmission to engine bellhousing brace. This is what the 3/8" extension and both 15mm sockets and the both air guns (ratchet and impact) are for.

After that, I removed the heat shield from the starter, via the 3 10mm bolts (this is what the ratchet wrench is for. the Gear Wrench Flex-beams work nice for this)

Then I unclipped the ignition engage wire from the starter with the right angle pick, and unbolted the plug adapter from the starter using the 1/4" ratchet, extension with swivel, and 8mm socket.

Then use the 13mm deep 1/4" drive socket and ratchet without extension to unbolt the positive cable

Following this, I unbolted the starter from the block. Once it was free, I was able to turn it 180 degrees so the solenoid was facing between the bell housing and the front pinion yoke.

Slid it down, wiggled, realigned, slid it down further, where it bound just a tiny bit on the upper driver catalytic converter. At this point, I was able to slide the pry bar between the bell housing and starter, and coax it the last 1/4" to watch it drop to the floor.


straight into the scrap pile, grab new starter, orient it appropriately, slide it in until it binds, and use a 1/2lb hammer to tap it in until it is just past binding, then realign and install opposite of removal process.


I ended up deciding to go this route for two reasons.
1.) my hands don't fit in by the exhaust manifolds to disconnect the upper 02 sensors
2.) even in the best situation, a spring-loaded exhaust clamp, and a flange clamp, once they've started rusting, are NOT going to come out easily.



Worked great for me, everything is ready to go.

All of that worked for me as well. The main point is.... absolutely remove the drive shaft!! Its not that hard. Get the bolts out. Collapse it. Push rear end up. Front down. Slides right out.

I used a long 1/2" extention (less give won't twist) to go past the exhaust. With a "wiggle" extention and then the 15 mm socket. No need to remove exhaust.

I want to reuse the heat shield. I notched it to slide under that nut. Much better.