First time lower ball joint removal

[Ry' N Jen]

Here is the kit I rented:

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My joint popped out a little then stopped. You can see the bulge where I had it so tight. I let it soak with PB blaster for a few and it came right on out:

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I rented a another kit to help pop the joints out and things. Some people like to beat on everything with a hammer but I personally dont. Its whatever floats your boat.

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Make sure you dont tear any boots and dont use a pickle fork.

Who sells that kit Blake?

I would like to own one for myself...

 

[kb0nly]

I was just making a point that it wont cost me twice as much lol

LMAO... I know the type of area man, same around here, and oddly i shop at Wal-Mart also.

Didn't know where you live since its not on your profile or anything.

Gotta love small town life though right?? Just run down to a local shop i use all the time today, needed a piece on the wife's car fixed and welded, total cost including time on the lift, $15.

And if you don't believe me i have the hand written receipt as proof... LOL

 

[Midgear]

LMAO... I know the type of area man, same around here, and oddly i shop at Wal-Mart also.

Didn't know where you live since its not on your profile or anything.

Gotta love small town life though right?? Just run down to a local shop i use all the time today, needed a piece on the wife's car fixed and welded, total cost including time on the lift, $15.

And if you don't believe me i have the hand written receipt as proof... LOL

brewahaha.. sometimes I miss the big city, but then I think of how crowded and hectic things can be- its easier to find trails in the country too (naughty)

 

[osufans]

i bought a BJ press from this place...pretty good prices at the time...not sure how they compare as of late:

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/c-271-tie-rod-ball-joint-pitman-arm.aspx

here's the kit i have, if i remember correctly....

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-418-astro-pneumatic-7865.aspx

 

[Auberon]

Different strokes for different folks

1 Your approach was sound and you've done what we all should keep doing - learn by your experience.....GOODONYA!
2 There are some versions (like by Snap-On Tools) like the one you hired (similar to a G-clamp) but you can holdem in a vice and push apart universal joints etc. They are only AUD 1400 aaaargh! to buy.
3 Blaster IS GREAT stuff!
4 Some of us can,,, and do enjoy making our own tools.
5 Otherwise as I have become quite disabled, I make my way slowly to my 20 T Hydraulic Press, securely safety strap so you can't drop them and press away.
Mandrels/dollies etc are easy to turn if I haven't already made one.

I must agree with the objection to flogging them out.

Cheers
Auberon

 

[JeepJeepster]

Who sells that kit Blake?

I would like to own one for myself...

Yeah, Ive always wanted to get those kits myself too. Theyve seem like pretty good little kits, Ive rented them a few times.

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[kj924]

Who sells that kit Blake?

I would like to own one for myself...

Do you have a Princess Auto out there on the West Coast Ryan?

 

[Ry' N Jen]

Do you have a Princess Auto out there on the West Coast Ryan?

Yes, they know me by first name there!
But I haven't seen that particular kit!

 

[kj924]

Yes, they know me by first name there!

(rotflmao)

I would check with those guys first...probably a better price than elsewhere...

 

[Auberon]

Might help

One technique that hasn't been mentioned here to help ease stubborn fittings out is whilst it is under tensile load from the puller, use gentle encouraging TAPS around the preimeter of the lower control arm(LCA) WITH a dolly/drift/podger (trying to cover all the names) of a softer material like aluminium, brass or phosphor bronze and a hammer. Stressing NOT flogging here.

You benefit by not damaging the LCA and you have absolute control over where those hammer taps go. If you are worried, and you have one, use a smaller hammer but big enough to overcomne the inertia of the dolly.

Be careful not to tap the tool keeping it under tension and the straighter the line of pull, the better. I wud stress TAPPING around wherever you can reach around the perimeter, then give it a tiny bit more torque on the tool, tap around again with drift and hammer and repeat. This will move some enormously stuck components.

You also avoid belting the taper of the BJ.
This often helps it along with Blaster especially if its rusted.

You don't have to brutalise them for the most part.

If you have a shop compressor and an air hammer there are ways you can gently and rapidly tap the perimeter of the LCA without bruising it. Let me know if you want more detail.

Also a bit of EP (or any) grease (oil at a pinch) on the threads of the tool is a huge benefit to reducing friction under load.

Also, the illustrations show the extractors pushing directly on the head of the ball joint. It is often beneficial to keep the tool centred of you have a longer nut or the existing nut will run up enough to act as a cup. If you are replacing, then the condition of the nut shouldn't matter but you may have to consider the condition of the threads unless you have thread files, die nuts, taps to tidy up threads.

Without the extra guidance of the nut, they can slip off....with a degree of danger. Sometimes you can put the castellated part of the nut downwards - try to have at least 2/3 of a nut engaged on the thread.

Cheers
Auberon

 

[Midgear]

update:

I went ahead and just sent the entire thing to the shop, they charged me 160 and I paid willingly and left- took it to get aligned.

THEN-

They tell me it can't be aligned because my passenger side outer tie rod is shot- (so that's where that remaining clunk is coming from)

SO-

I went down to advance auto parts and ordered all new tie rods, inners and outers for both sides. (MOOG parts)

NOW-

I'm told these are fairly easy to install, but I must get an alignment immediately afterwards. can anyone vouche for the hardness level of this task of installing the tie rod ends? I'm gonna do all 4 of them so I don't have to worry about any others failing.

so far I've put 4 new tires on it, lower ball joints, about to put tie rod ends on it- if this clunk remains, I'm lost lol

also- my drive shaft is stuck in new jersey still. about to call and get an update on their blizzard situation and see if the shaft has been delivered yet. Can't wait to get that new one installed. I miss my 4 wheel drive eek2.gif

ordered tow hooks too. so far everything is coming along nicely.

 

[yellocoyote]

I've only ever done outer tie rod ends on my kj, and it was very very easy. Not certain about the inner ones though.

 

[tommudd]

inners are as easy to do as the outers, little trick turn the wheels all the way to the right and change that one, all the way left and change it, easier to get in to it

 

[Midgear]

I've only ever done outer tie rod ends on my kj, and it was very very easy. Not certain about the inner ones though.

this is good news- the guy mentioned popping the outer tie rod off and turning the wheel to full lock to expose the inner tie rod. We shall see-

 

[tommudd]

Make sure you count the threads on each one coming off and install the new one the same number to get them close back to where they were, that way you can still drive it to the alignment shop!

 

[Midgear]

ok from what I can gather from pictures and stuff- the outer tie rod ends are gonna be cake.

not so sure about the inners.. same concept as the outers I assume? or is there a bit more to it?

 

[tjkj2002]

ok from what I can gather from pictures and stuff- the outer tie rod ends are gonna be cake.

not so sure about the inners.. same concept as the outers I assume? or is there a bit more to it?

There's a bit more to the inners,make dang sure the threaded area is 100% clean and dry,and use thread lock on the inner end that screws into the rack.

 

[Midgear]

and if my clunk remains when bouncing over rocks and bumps in the road- what should I look at next..

Lower ball joints replaced - MOOG parts

Tie rod ends and alignment here in about 8 hours - MOOG parts

 

[kj924]

Is there a roll pin on the inner tie rod end?

 

[Midgear]

Update:

After closer inspection of the inner tie rods, they are solid and still look brand spankin new, and to look at these joints, the boot needed to be slid back (I destroyed the clamp holding the boot to the rack, replaced with a hose clamp) --

Sliding the boot back, I noticed there was quite a bit of power steering fluid collected in the boot. I'm gonna be rough here and say it was about 3 - 6 tablespoons of fluid that fell out of the boot when I slid it back.. I assume this is bad, but after realizing that this boot hasn't been touched in about 8 years- hell I don't know.. mabey this is what has collected in there over 8 years? Mabey I need a new rack and pinion?

ALSO- I noticed that my clunk remains when wiggling the steering wheel, and after closer inspection, the entire rack and pinion moves around just a hair.. not alot, but just enough to notice it's moving-

QUESTION- How do I stop it from moving? Should this power steering fluid inside the boot worry me? I didn't pull off the driver side boot, so I don't know if theres any fluid on that side.

I do know that my clunking has become almost non existant when going over bumps, that's a plus. Now I just need to get that rack and pinion to sit still and my clunking days will be over.

ANOTHER QUESTION- how in the hell does one adjust the camber angle on these things- I'm going to take it and have it aligned, but I just don't see anything that would allow adjustment. my wheels currently sit like / \ (staring at the front bumper straight on)

It doesn't pull anywhere, it travels in a straight line, they just sit all crooked lol

so- summary

1. Power steering fluid in the boot.. what the hell?


2. Rack and pinion has movement.. suggestions?

3. slight clunking remains.. this is caused by the rack and pinion movement, yes?

4. how is the camber angle adjusted on the front wheels?