Engine Swap Overview

Discussion in 'How To' started by TwoBobsKJ, Mar 9, 2013.

  1. TwoBobsKJ

    TwoBobsKJ Full Access Member

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    Why would you overfill the oil? Having too much oil in the crankcase is nearly as bad as not enough oil.

    Keeping the oil at the proper level according to the dipstick and owners manual is appropriate - don't overfill.

    Bob
     
  2. rroy676

    rroy676 New Member

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    HI,

    I will be doing this swap next week. I have ordered most of my parts but I was wondering if the bed plate bolts need to be replaced. The service manual does not specify if they are TTY.

    Also, any suggestions as to what I should replace in the new engine while I am at it. The engine has 25000 miles

    Thanks


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  3. TwoBobsKJ

    TwoBobsKJ Full Access Member

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    The bed plate bolts are not TTY so you don't need to get another set.

    As for what to replace in the 'new' engine... What year is it? With only 25,000 miles I suspect it's a later model year so really nothing to replace. Only thing you might consider is the valve cover gaskets. If you have the plastic valve covers they us a different gasket than the stamped steel covers on the earlier engines.

    Other than that you should be good to go!

    Bob
     
  4. rroy676

    rroy676 New Member

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    Thanks for the response. It is a 2012. I check out the gaskets

    Can't wait to get it back up and running

    Thanks


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  5. rroy676

    rroy676 New Member

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    Just wanted to thank you for the write up. Just completed my swap and went smoothly. Happy to have it running like new again.


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  6. TwoBobsKJ

    TwoBobsKJ Full Access Member

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    That's awesome - congratulations!! :waytogo:


    Bob
     
  7. Swisher

    Swisher New Member

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    Done my swap on Labor Day weekend. I installed a 3.7 out of a wrecked '03 with 65k in my 2002 KJ. I was told the engine from an '03 will not work in an '02 and couldn't find any guide to what needed to be modified between the two years, so I researched it as I went. The only difference I found between the two motors was the '03's pilot bushing/flex plate, and the temperature sending unit near the power steering pump which had a different shaped plug for its wiring harness. I used my original flex plate, wiring harness, and sending unit. I also removed the pilot bushing. After looking up the part numbers, both the crankshaft and camshaft positioning sensors are compatible with either year.

    Another note I wanted to share was dropping the engine into place. I lined up the splines into the torque converter by pushing as I was twisting the engine as one would do traditionally. Once the engine came into contact with the bell housing, I installed the two front bell housing bolts. However, when I went to lower the engine into place with the hook style "quick" motor mounts, the hooks were too far behind and not allowing themselves to drop into place over the lower mount bolts. I ended up backing the two front bell housing bolts out an inch or so and giving the motor a good yank to separate it from the bell housing (leaving the splines still aligned). I then lowered the engine into place. Both of the hooks lined up perfectly with their lower mount bolts and as they slipped into place, the engine and bell housing slid together in perfect alignment. In addition, I learned through hind-sight that it would also be a good idea to connect the starter to the harness and sit it off next to where it goes before lowering the engine into place. It's damn near to impossible to slide it up between everything once the engine is bolted in.

    After getting everything back together, I went to start the new engine. It belched, farted, sputtered, and died. I tried again and it did the same thing. I kept starting it close to maybe a dozen times before it finally ran. It ran a little longer each time I started it. My original engine (which still ran) had dropped a valve seat and had 2 dead cylinders, so I would suspect that my computer had to learn that it now has control over 6 fully functioning cylinders again. Once the computer figured this out, it purred like a new one and I have put over 4,000 miles on it since.
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2015
  8. TwoBobsKJ

    TwoBobsKJ Full Access Member

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    Congrats!

    Always good to have additional tips and ideas on the swap so we can help out others considering this project :waytogo:


    Bob
     
  9. 2002JK

    2002JK New Member

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    Swap

    Has anyone ever swapped a 2010 Liberty 3.7L into a 2002 Liberty. Everything that i have read on here o one has went to that new of a year I saw where you change the cam gear and the crank ring. The only engine that I have found close buy is a 2010 just trying to make sure it will work before I buy the engine.. Thnaks
     
  10. TwoBobsKJ

    TwoBobsKJ Full Access Member

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    Yes, engines up to 2012 will work just fine on your '02.

    Not much except the timing cover will stay in place from the new engine. You'll have to do the cam and crank ring swap and take everything except the timing cover off yours and put it on the 2010 engine - even the injectors. But the block is the same (but with slightly higher compression ratios.)

    Read through this entire thread to get a feel for the different year 3.7 engines that have been swapped in and some tips & tricks for doing the swap :waytogo:

    Bob
     
  11. 2002JK

    2002JK New Member

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    Bob,
    Thanks for the all the info found a 2010 Engine to swap into my 02 will pick it up on Thursday Had busted valves and lifters with the valves hitting the pistons but it did have 192k on the engine.

    Thanks
    Stu
     
  12. 2002JK

    2002JK New Member

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    Engine swap went great had only a few hiccups ( stuff I forgot about) but over all every went well 2012 3.7 into a 2002 and it purrs like a kitten. Thanks for all the information
     
  13. profdlp

    profdlp Grouchy Old Cuss

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    That is encouraging to hear for those of us who plan to hang on to ours for a good long while. :waytogo:
     
  14. TwoBobsKJ

    TwoBobsKJ Full Access Member

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    Great job! I agree with Prof - with the (relatively) easy swap to a newer 3.7 it makes the decision to keep the Libby much easier. :waytogo:

    Bob
     
  15. dude1116

    dude1116 Full Access Member

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    One day I hope to learn how to do all of this!
     
  16. jimbobwa

    jimbobwa New Member

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    Back in the beginning you mentioned the TTY rod bolts. Do you know anything about the bolt part number change. They list it as 6508504AA for up to 2006. Then after, it comes up as 6503928. Both of them come up as M9x1,0x46.00 in size. Does anybody know if the number was replaced or superseded ? Or did anybody just reuse the old ones ?
     
  17. Jeepibe2002

    Jeepibe2002 New Member

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    Good informative post

    Thank You for this informative post , just bought a 2002 Jeep liberty 3.7 and engine is knocking bad, body is in good shape, transmission seems to be ok, so I been learning and doing lots of research to find a good engine to swap i like a rebuild engine but i been suggested to find a used engine, here in my town its hard to come across affordable good low mileage used engines. Thanks again for the post.
     
  18. teeje

    teeje Full Access Member

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    Got my engine from accurate engines. Where I live it's three hours away and they picked up the jeep installed it and brought it back for about 4,000 last June. (I think it was 3,800) to be exact total for labor. Plus it's a remanufactured engine.


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  19. TwoBobsKJ

    TwoBobsKJ Full Access Member

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    Yea, depending on where you are engines are either in plentiful supply or hard to get - doesn't seem to be an in-between. Not having to use an engine from a Liberty helps to find a replacement but you're still dealing with a used engine. But if you can find one from a late model Chrysler product that may help with the price.

    Getting a reman was my first choice - I didn't want to mess around the the cam sprocket and reluctor ring. I would have gone with Accurate too - they have a good rep. I was fortunate to find a low mileage engine for $1000 so I figured I'd pay myself the additional $2500 to $3000 and install a used one. So far it's been a good investment.

    But you have to balance how much time you have, the space you can work in, the tool assortment at your disposal and availability of the engine. A reman may be the correct choice.


    Bob
     
  20. rjkj2005

    rjkj2005 Full Access Member

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    The original post stated 02,03,04 will have to change reluctor rings for a newer engine. This is true all of the time for the 02 and 03. Not for the 04. It depends on when it came off the assembly line. The statement is true if the PCM has just 3 plugs going to it. This would be for those 04's that were assembled in the 03 calendar year. No change of reluctor rings on an 04 to any newer 3.7 if the PCM has 4 plugs going into it.

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