Driver Side Upper Control Arm Replacement

[JeepHubby]

Hey Guys,

I am a new member to the forum as I am marrying into a 2006 Jeep Liberty Sport 3.7l. After studying the forum for a few weeks, we have started down the part to bring it back up to par. Ordered a Frankenlift as the suspension needed to be refreshed which should be here in the next week. I am also replacing both the upper control arms while everything is apart. Passenger side was very straight forward, but the driver side is giving me a hell of a time. It is pretty buried and I can't see a logical route to get a wrench in from the above or below. Searched the forum and nothing jumped out at me providing a solution. Is there a trick for the rear most driver mount?

Completed Projects:
A/C Compressor and associated hardware
Passenger Front UCA

Remaining Projects:
Driver Front UCA
Frankenlift
Rear UCA
Front Drive LCA Ball Joint
Fuel Level Sensor
Tires: Size recommendations?
Rear Pinion Seal

Gotta say...love all the room to work under the hood. Coming from my car this truck is like a mansion!

Thanks!

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

First...

(welcome)

That rear UCA bolt can be accessed with a couple of 12" extensions on a 1/2" drive ratchet. You need to be able to swing the ratchet in a long enough arc to move the bolt. You'll be swinging the ratchet in front of the power steering pump in front of the engine with those extensions.

Sounds like you have a good upgrade plan for your KJ :waytogo:

Bob

 

[tommudd]

Extensions and a swivel from up front near the radiator, little bit of time but 10 minutes or so
HOPE you got JBA UCAs and not stock replacements , will need them with the Frankenlift

 

[JeepHubby]

Thanks for the help! I will give it another shot tomorrow. Is the ball joint in the front lower control arm replaceable?

Any recommendations for the grease in the ball joints?

 

[TheBlueKJ]

If you bought JBA UCA's they are, stock you have to replace the whole arm again

 

[JeepHubby]

I was able to get the rear bolt out with the recommendation of using two connected 12 inch extensions. The forward UCA bolt is turning to be a bit of a hassle as well. The driver side hard brake line is directly behind the bolt head preventing extraction. It it mounted into the body by a fitting and then the metal line bends down at a 90 degree angle. Do I really need to unmount the brake line just to get the bolt out? Anything I am missing?

Here is a picture:

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[tommudd]

I was able to get the rear bolt out with the recommendation of using two connected 12 inch extensions. The forward UCA bolt is turning to be a bit of a hassle as well. The driver side hard brake line is directly behind the bolt head preventing extraction. It it mounted into the body by a fitting and then the metal line bends down at a 90 degree angle. Do I really need to unmount the brake line just to get the bolt out? Anything I am missing?

Here is a picture:

You must be registered for see images

Can either unbolt OR line bends a little bit so its out of the way, have done it both ways
some years are closer plus it takes a whole 30 seconds to unbolt

 

[JeepHubby]

Do I need to bleed the line after unbolting?

 

[dude1116]

I gently bent it up and out of the way!

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Do I need to bleed the line after unbolting?

No. Just unbolt it from the inner wheel well and move it out of the way. Remove the UCA bolt, replace, then bolt the brake line back in place.

You'd asked of the lower ball joints are replaceable. Short answer is Yes. There is a greaseable ball joint available and (I'm going from memory here) is part number K3099. Verify before you spend money but I think that number is pretty close.


Bob

 

[Kal-El]

Extensions and a swivel from up front near the radiator, little bit of time but 10 minutes ...

This project is where I learned to really appreciate wobble extensions. :gr_grin: