crack open a can of a/c?

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LibertyTC

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Firestone- Ah...U might want to get 2nd opinion-not saying it is not the compressor but....
Is there a visible leak at compressor seals or did they put a dye in & show you?
I would only trust an approved AC specialist.
I also would want to know the correct steps have been followed.
 

tjkj2002

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Firestone- Ah...U might want to get 2nd opinion-not saying it is not the compressor but....
Is there a visible leak at compressor seals or did they put a dye in & show you?
I would only trust an approved AC specialist.
I also would want to know the correct steps have been followed.
HMMM..........


I'm automotive AC certified(ASE and Imaca) and I work for Firestone.3 others I work with are also certified.Have to be certified just to handle R134A in CO.
 

LibertyTC

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I am glad that certification is required in CO Troy. AC shops here ?
I often have to ask for certifications, before I will allow them even to look at my vehicles.
 

mightybeet

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well i didnt really get to see where the leak was and took their word that it was the compressor. based on what i have read around the interwebs if there is no magic gas in the system:

1. no cold air(who knew)
2. low pressure causes the vent door switcher thing to freeze up causing the vent to get stuck in between floor, defrost, etc... modes. works fine once thawed.
c. clutch will not engage.

so i think i will go the route with new compressor but not for $600+. rockauto has some for around $200.
 

tjkj2002

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well i didnt really get to see where the leak was and took their word that it was the compressor. based on what i have read around the interwebs if there is no magic gas in the system:

1. no cold air(who knew)
2. low pressure causes the vent door switcher thing to freeze up causing the vent to get stuck in between floor, defrost, etc... modes. works fine once thawed.
c. clutch will not engage.

so i think i will go the route with new compressor but not for $600+. rockauto has some for around $200.
That price is not just for the compressor as you must replace the receiver/dryer and orifice tube with the AC compressor and flush the system out.Must have proof of all that being replaced to maintain any warranty on the compressor.
 

LibertyTC

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Dont expect the new comp to last long if you dont have it flushed etc as tjkj mentioned.
Fine metal particles need to be removed and often an additional filter can be added as well.
 

tjkj2002

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Dont expect the new comp to last long if you dont have it flushed etc as tjkj mentioned.
Fine metal particles need to be removed and often an additional filter can be added as well.
Yeah and technically you can't even properly flush a condenser or a evap core built after '94.




Even if the compressor has not failed does not mean there is not damaging particles in the system.
 

LibertyTC

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All I know if my AC is shot..I want you to rebuild it.
It takes a cert tech what I call patient, attention to detail time, to do a "real" major flush /replace the receiver dryer and orifice tube/compressor and add an inline filter.
Then comes PAO and refrigerant.
IMHO do it right or dont bother.
Edit,,,What compressor would you recommend Troy??
 
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mightybeet

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they didnt break it down that far. just says new a/c compressor $600+.

labor, flush/recharge were separate line items. either way am going to shop around.

thanks!
 

Birdman330

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well i didnt really get to see where the leak was and took their word that it was the compressor. based on what i have read around the interwebs if there is no magic gas in the system:

1. no cold air(who knew)
2. low pressure causes the vent door switcher thing to freeze up causing the vent to get stuck in between floor, defrost, etc... modes. works fine once thawed.
c. clutch will not engage.

so i think i will go the route with new compressor but not for $600+. rockauto has some for around $200.

Understand something, sometimes you have to buy a kit when you purchase the compressor which is why the price is high. Compressor manufacturers do it to ensure the job is done right by stating you get the warranty if you purchase the kit or if you want to take the risk and think its a Callahan Premium A/C Compressor from Sandusky Ohio you can buy that Compressor alone and have no warranty period. Just remember one thing, sometimes a new compressor alone does not solve the problem and there could be other issues with the Drier and orfice tubes.
 

mightybeet

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so i talked to them again today and they said it was the compressor. didnt say anything about a leak this time but said that the clutch did not engage. could it be the low pressure switch?
 

LibertyTC

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The compressor will not engage if there is low pressure in system. (expect a leak somewhere if low) and a dye-recharge will show where leak is.
You need to know what the high & low pressure readings are.
At 70F the low pressure port should read between 20-30 psi & the high pressure port should read 150-250 psi.
 

mightybeet

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so took it to another place which charged more for the inspection but tells me my condenser has a hole which is where it is leaking.
 

LibertyTC

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Were flying debris (rocks) mainly responsible for the damage Troy?
 

mightybeet

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i blame ct highways. i have 2 good size impact cracks on my windshield both from highway debris.
 
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