couple of service questions

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offrovering

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before I tackle this stuff on the jeep, couple questions.

from reading here it looks like I have most covered, but just thought I would gather input.

1) drain front diff, simple drain and refill via plugs - 75w140
2) drain rear diff, drain and remove front casing, clean, replace with liquid gasket maker and refill - 75w140
3) drain transmission, drop pan and clean, replace filter(s), replace pan with mopar gasket, refill via dipstick - ATF+4
4) transfercase, simple drain and refill via plugs - ATF+4

mainly questioning ****** and transfer case, do I need to cycle the gears while running for ******? transfercase, just fill until small bead is dripping?
 

JeepJeepster

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You remove the rear diff cover to drain it, no draining before.

For the tcase, yea, I just fill it till it starts coming out of the fill hole. Make sure its on fairly level ground.

For the ******, put around 4 quarts in it or until its on 'ok' on the dip stick. After that, start it and put the ****** in N and let it sit for a min or so. Check the fluid while its running in N. If its close to 'ok' and not on add drive it so it warms up then check again in N. The instructions are on the dip stick and in the OM too.

Some advice, make sure to take a quart or two and a funnel with you when you go to drive it to warm it up. Mine was on OK while in N in the driveway but evidently the torque didnt fill up till I drove it. Thing went into limp mode and scared the poo outta me. :(

Block the wheels or set the parking brake really good before putting the ****** in N and checking the fluid.
 

offrovering

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ok thanks, yeah I have never filled a ****** via dipstick and also driven it to get up to temp, that scares me, I can see why you recommend what you did. I am used to pumping in via fill hole and cycling through gears while pumping.

I also realize the transmission bolts back up with liquid gasket too now (blarg) no gaskets for rear diff or ******?

sounds like valvoline for ATF+4 for both tcase and ******. And then mobil1 synth for diffs 75w140 or 75w90?

oh, and I have an 03 sport, I am assuming NV231 since I have 2hi, 4hi, N, 4lo

and I still need to find that stupid transmission ID tag, cant find it
 

AlexKJ

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before I tackle this stuff on the jeep, couple questions.

...
2) drain rear diff, drain and remove front casing, clean, replace with liquid gasket maker and refill - 75w140
...

My manual says for the front one 75W140 synthetic... and for the rear diff two choices... 75W140 if you tow or off-road often... or 80w90 for "normal" use (I say the first one is the normal use for a Jeep... you know... off-roading and towing FJ's and Hummers :D)

Cheers :)
 

offrovering

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so I am trying to find the mobil 1 75w140 and 80w90 and am having a problem locating both.

is one or the other acceptable to run in both diffs? this jeep is driven by my wife (ie highway and mall crawler) (blarg)

I checked previous service records, looks like 80w90 was used in both last time around, don't know brand.

Also, are these trannys bad with fluid changes? I am at 96k and if it is better to keep this thing sealed at this point, I will, but I would prefer changing.
 

offrovering

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just following up after doing all of this for anyone else who may search and read.

the transmission filter and fluid change went just fine, let it drain for awhile, you will get another quart or so out. the filter kind of twists out, the old o ring will be stuck, i was able to put my finger in and pull it down. the new o ring goes on the neck of the filter, then push it up, you will feel it seat. from jeepjeepster, i took the advice to take fluid and funnel with me...interestingly enough as i am driving down the road (i have already backed out and driven a few hundred feet) the ****** was as if in N, it needed more fluid!

the diffs are a pain, buy a pump, thats my only advice. they are easy to drain and clean, and for the rear, reseal. filling is an absolute nightmare, get a pump so you can pump fluid.

the tcase, follow the above reference for the diffs...a pump is needed.

all in all went smooth. the valvoline atf+4 seems to smooth my shifting, but hard for me to tell since i dont drive this thing much.

didnt take any pictures as I was busy trying to stay clean from every open spot under the jeep purging itself violently :eek:
 

tjkj2002

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just following up after doing all of this for anyone else who may search and read.

the transmission filter and fluid change went just fine, let it drain for awhile, you will get another quart or so out. the filter kind of twists out, the old o ring will be stuck, i was able to put my finger in and pull it down. the new o ring goes on the neck of the filter, then push it up, you will feel it seat. from jeepjeepster, i took the advice to take fluid and funnel with me...interestingly enough as i am driving down the road (i have already backed out and driven a few hundred feet) the ****** was as if in N, it needed more fluid!

the diffs are a pain, buy a pump, thats my only advice. they are easy to drain and clean, and for the rear, reseal. filling is an absolute nightmare, get a pump so you can pump fluid.

the tcase, follow the above reference for the diffs...a pump is needed.

all in all went smooth. the valvoline atf+4 seems to smooth my shifting, but hard for me to tell since i dont drive this thing much.

didnt take any pictures as I was busy trying to stay clean from every open spot under the jeep purging itself violently :eek:
Very odd I have never needed a pump to fill the F/R diffs or the t-case.I have always used the regular bottle that the fluid comes in with the gear lube bottle tips,always had plenty of room to get that 1qt bottle into position to fill,those tips also fit onto the 1qt ATF bottles making it a breeze to fill the t-case.Never used a pump ever on any vehicle.
 

offrovering

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it has to be much easier with a pump. keep in mind, i was suggesting to get a pump, i did it without, but it is a pain.

youve never had a fill plug in a weird spot, come fill my disco ****** without a pump, good luck
 

tjkj2002

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it has to be much easier with a pump. keep in mind, i was suggesting to get a pump, i did it without, but it is a pain.

youve never had a fill plug in a weird spot, come fill my disco ****** without a pump, good luck
I know all about weird fill plug locations,I'm sure your Disco's ****** is no easier then a H1's t-case fill plug,a 2" hole saw makes it super easy:D.I'm sure you'd not want to cut a 2" hole in your floor board but I didn't get the luxury of a parts store in Iraq and Afganistan so we did what was needed to get sh$t fixed and filled.Real fun filling stuff with the smallest container our fliuds would even come in was 5 gallon cans(except brake fliud).
 

Dave

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As to wierd fill locations, I use a gear lube pump (used for a boat outdrive). It will screw on any 1 quart bottle and the tube will twist in any position and you just pump it in. I have been using them on boats for years and tried one on a gmc truck once and it worked great. I think I have 5 of them in the garage so I use a different one for each different fluid so I don't get any cross-contamination since some always seems to stay in the pump tube and that way I don't have to worry about cleaning them out. Boy, am I lazy sometimes. They don't cost much.

Dave
 

ShafferNY

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This is what I used:
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It comes with an adapter so you can use it on either quart containers or gallon jugs like antifreeze. :D
 
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