Starts then immediately dies

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Ravthree

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Hello!

I have 2004 Liberty with the 3.7 and automatic transmission and about 83k miles. I have been experiencing what seems to be a fairly common issue with an uncommon solution.

A couple years ago when cold starting, it would turn over and start fine then immediately die. Pressing on the gas while starting and holding around 1k RPMs for a minute or so would get it to where it would then run as normal and once warm would start again with no issues. Based on my research, I determined it to be a battery even though the battery was less than 2 years old at that point. I put a new battery in and the issue seemed to be resolved.

As winter approached again this year, it started doing the same thing again and getting progressively worse. I started using a battery tender to try to keep it charged up in case there was a parasitic draw. It got to the point where even holding at 1k RPMs even for 5 minutes would not keep it running.

The valve cover gaskets had been leaking for a while so I replaced those, replaced all spark plugs and air filter, and cleaned the battery terminals and connections well and made sure the battery was fully charged. The issue still persisted. Even though the battery was only a year old and tested good, I got a new one last weekend and installed it. It still died instantly, but holding the gas around 1k RPM would allow it to idle without applying any gas and once warm restart without any issue.

I kept the battery tender on it all week and the issue was the same again this morning. Even though this issue is usually solved with a new battery, I’m convinced in this case it is not such a simple solution.

I have plugged in my OBDII scanner and there are no codes.

Trying to start with a jumper pack doesn’t seem to make any difference.

When running, there is increased voltage shown on the tester suggesting that the alternator is working.

Does anybody have any suggestions on what to try next?

Thanks in advance!
 

lfhoward

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Replace or clean the idle air controller (IAC). It is stuck closed and your engine can’t breathe at idle, so it dies. Warming up the engine by holding the throttle open manually probably frees it up enough to function temporarily.
 

Ravthree

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Replace or clean the idle air controller (IAC). It is stuck closed and your engine can’t breathe at idle, so it dies. Warming up the engine by holding the throttle open manually probably frees it up enough to function temporarily.
Thank you! I just ordered an OEM replacement that will be here next week. Fingers crossed!
 

Ourobos

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Flooring the throttle typically turns off the injector pulse, so that means you're limiting fuel by doing so - it's getting too much fuel or not enough air. SO the above assessment is HOPEFULLY correct. Let us know how it goes.
 

Ravthree

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The new IAC came in this week and I had a chance to install it today. On the first startup it seems to be working great. I haven’t tested extensively or in the cold yet, but am hopeful that should have taken care of it. I’m so thankful that there are people willing to help out on this forum, it means a lot!
 

gregorym

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i too had a slimier problem but my idle would very from 1000 to 500 rpm and then die would not throw a code so i changed the throttle position sensor and it held at 600 thought it was fixed then it died still no code and it ran smooth so i replaced the ldle air control valve it would still die but always restart immediately so next i changed the crank and cam shaft sensor and that seems to have cured it
 

hawkace

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The new IAC came in this week and I had a chance to install it today. On the first startup it seems to be working great. I haven’t tested extensively or in the cold yet, but am hopeful that should have taken care of it. I’m so thankful that there are people willing to help out on this forum, it means a lot!
Did the new IAC solved your problem? Hope your solution will help the others.
 

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