Transmission help 42RLE

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DakMack

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05 KJ 4x4, 218k
42 RLE auto tran / non VLP

Looking for help on continuing issues with my KJ. Originally I had bad shutter(converter) and 2 codes (P0700, P0740).

I underwent a diy rebuild to the bottom of the Tran case. Parts included - new torque converter, all steels and clutches, all seals/ soft parts, piston and accumulator, cooler bypass valve, filter and new atf+4, new cooler/ lines/ fittings, check balls in v-body.

I had one broken snap ring (low/rev pressure plate/ upper side, tappered which I replaced also.

Thrust washers and bearings were all fine.

After rebuild, now coding P0870 ( solenoid-circuit c) and P1110 ( low engine performance/ high iat)

I assumed electrical issues so tried contact cleaning all connectors, applied dielectrical grease, re-plugged and same code. P0870

Tried unhooking battery and clamping hot and ground terminals together which cleared code.

Transmission shifts 1-2, 2-3 with a bump, 3-4 and hits overdrive. Converter locked up and out both until CEL appears P0870 quickly then she only has 1st and reverse (Limp Mode).

Pulled pan and dropped valve body to assume solenoid block replacement and find a decent amount of mostly fine metal shavings throughout pan and fluid. Fluid has also darkened a bit but doesn’t smell burnt. Only about 1hr motor time and maybe .3 mile close to home to test.

I didn’t have access to parts washer but I did clean everything I could with aerosol and air blow out, wiped down and got everything very clean, including opening valve body to clean passages.

I wouldn’t assume there’s an internal issue as it felt pretty smooth until coding but there is metal residue. Unless from my Converter failure before disassembly but I didn’t have the new P0870 code before hand just P0700 and P0740.

Went on to read many posts on here about fluid and filter change to clear Limp Mode and P0870 but I have the fine metallic residue(few little larger pieces) indicating something unless it’s new clutches wearing, idk. Also read posts elsewhere about possible internal leak(rolled seal) or internal failure with this code if not electrical.

Game plan would be new solenoid block, fresh filter and fluid and try it again or should I drop Tran back down to inspect everything and still do new filter, fluid, solenoid block?

Much appreciated for reading all the details of my overwhelming dilemmas and any suggestions are welcomed.
 

LibertyTC

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Sorry to hear about your transmission woes. I also wonder what condition the valve body is in.
With all the codes & particulate matter, IMHO it may be time to consider a complete re-build. Jasper transmissions comes to mind.
Another option would be to find another lower mile 2005 42RLE from a bone yard.
 

DakMack

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Thanks for the reply!

I’ll tell ya, all I found for research on valvebody wear was a shuttle port that wears out and I didnt see anything there.

I think the Transmission had been overhauled beforehand as the solenoid block is time stamped 06 and my KJ is an 05.

I considered a boneyard Tran to start but now I’m $1000 and time deep so I can either gamble another $80 for remanufactured MOPAR solenoid block / fluid and filter (given old matter in my fluid) or tear it down again and inspect.

If failure is found, then buy a donor or reman.

I don’t know, so maybe I’ll see if any other input surfaces.

Thank you, Sir.
 

derekj

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If you still have it apart check all the shift solenoids in the trans to see if one is open circuit - my guess is you have a bad solenoid (shift sol C) that is putting it into limp mode. Do you have a picture of the metal in the pan?
 

DakMack

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I removed the Solendoid Block from v-body and it’s top plate to check continuity on the 2 terminals of each 1of4 solenoids - all read 1.4ish but consistently.

Trans still bolted to engine.
I ordered a reman MOPAR SOLENOID BLOCK (lifetime warranty) and new OEM trans filter to try as last resort.

I also watch a YouTube video where the scroll valves get gunked in the sides of the v-body and changes hydraulic pressure or lack of needed for shifts. I’ll check this evening as I’m starting metal roof job on shed td.

I’ll post pics here. Thanks for reply @derekj
 

DakMack

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There are roll beads in the new Transmission pan where particulate is concentrated. This is after settling all night.

Some matter is the coating from the inner part of clutches (teeth) where they spline up on their hubs, I do recognize that but there’s also glitter. Old, new, idk. Ty
 

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DakMack

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You’ve eased my mind. Now that is catastrophic failure, and I see snap ring, was it the low reverse upper or what do you assume failed first?
 

derekj

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You’ve eased my mind. Now that is catastrophic failure, and I see snap ring, was it the low reverse upper or what do you assume failed first?
I don't have a picture of it but it looks like a snap ring land broke and the snap ring popped out and it went BOOM
 

DakMack

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I don't have a picture of it but it looks like a snap ring land broke and the snap ring popped out and it went BOOM
That really is too bad, my friend. Never a good day when one goes down. I wonder about Mopar Transmissions but I was always taught, everything last when taken care of, mostly.

Hope you got the old girl back going!?
 

runfor5

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Thanks for the reply!

I’ll tell ya, all I found for research on valvebody wear was a shuttle port that wears out and I didnt see anything there.

I think the Transmission had been overhauled beforehand as the solenoid block is time stamped 06 and my KJ is an 05.

I considered a boneyard Tran to start but now I’m $1000 and time deep so I can either gamble another $80 for remanufactured MOPAR solenoid block / fluid and filter (given old matter in my fluid) or tear it down again and inspect.

If failure is found, then buy a donor or reman.

I don’t know, so maybe I’ll see if any other input surfaces.

Thank you, Sir.
If you decide to go the reman route, I’ve said on here before, I had great customer service through Street Smart Transmissions based down in FL. Honestly don’t remember why I picked them over Jasper. Regardless, I put a new one of there’s in mine, went about 55k miles on it before car was wrecked. Mind you, this was pre COVID so service could’ve changed, but they were so fast to offer me a whole new trans (settled on a new valve body cus I didn’t wanna do the whole trans drop again) when I had issues w a 1-2 slippage post-install myself. It was all covered under their warranty, you just shipped back the old part. I believe w shipping at the time (2017 if I recall) it was around $1.9k.
 

JibeHo22

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Just curious - is it possible to buy a remanufactured transmission from MOPAR?
 

jimbobwa

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I read your post....look up code p0870. If you read the OBD findings for a p0870 , I didn't see ANYTHING about a "shift pac" . I've attached what I think advisable for you to check. Please read the options to check.
 

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Xterra4x4

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05 KJ 4x4, 218k
42 RLE auto tran / non VLP

Looking for help on continuing issues with my KJ. Originally I had bad shutter(converter) and 2 codes (P0700, P0740).

I underwent a diy rebuild to the bottom of the Tran case. Parts included - new torque converter, all steels and clutches, all seals/ soft parts, piston and accumulator, cooler bypass valve, filter and new atf+4, new cooler/ lines/ fittings, check balls in v-body.

I had one broken snap ring (low/rev pressure plate/ upper side, tappered which I replaced also.

Thrust washers and bearings were all fine.

After rebuild, now coding P0870 ( solenoid-circuit c) and P1110 ( low engine performance/ high iat)

I assumed electrical issues so tried contact cleaning all connectors, applied dielectrical grease, re-plugged and same code. P0870

Tried unhooking battery and clamping hot and ground terminals together which cleared code.

Transmission shifts 1-2, 2-3 with a bump, 3-4 and hits overdrive. Converter locked up and out both until CEL appears P0870 quickly then she only has 1st and reverse (Limp Mode).

Pulled pan and dropped valve body to assume solenoid block replacement and find a decent amount of mostly fine metal shavings throughout pan and fluid. Fluid has also darkened a bit but doesn’t smell burnt. Only about 1hr motor time and maybe .3 mile close to home to test.

I didn’t have access to parts washer but I did clean everything I could with aerosol and air blow out, wiped down and got everything very clean, including opening valve body to clean passages.

I wouldn’t assume there’s an internal issue as it felt pretty smooth until coding but there is metal residue. Unless from my Converter failure before disassembly but I didn’t have the new P0870 code before hand just P0700 and P0740.

Went on to read many posts on here about fluid and filter change to clear Limp Mode and P0870 but I have the fine metallic residue(few little larger pieces) indicating something unless it’s new clutches wearing, idk. Also read posts elsewhere about possible internal leak(rolled seal) or internal failure with this code if not electrical.

Game plan would be new solenoid block, fresh filter and fluid and try it again or should I drop Tran back down to inspect everything and still do new filter, fluid, solenoid block?

Much appreciated for reading all the details of my overwhelming dilemmas and any suggestions are welcomed.
I had the same problem with my 2004 liberty 4x4 shift solenoid code came up first, then going into limp modes, eventually having transmission rebuilt once the again by same shop, and by the way paying two $500 tow bills. With metal shavings in your fluid that'ss not good!
 

Xterra4x4

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I had the same problem with my 2004 liberty 4x4 shift solenoid code came up first, then going into limp modes, eventually having transmission rebuilt once the again by same shop, and by the way paying two $500 tow bills. With metal shavings in your fluid that'ss not good!
I forgot to mention, on the stock Liberty the ****** cooler sits behind (blocked by the airflow) the bumper! So I moved it up into the airflow and 60 degrees cooler.
 

DakMack

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If you decide to go the reman route, I’ve said on here before, I had great customer service through Street Smart Transmissions based down in FL. Honestly don’t remember why I picked them over Jasper. Regardless, I put a new one of there’s in mine, went about 55k miles on it before car was wrecked. Mind you, this was pre COVID so service could’ve changed, but they were so fast to offer me a whole new trans (settled on a new valve body cus I didn’t wanna do the whole trans drop again) when I had issues w a 1-2 slippage post-install myself. It was all covered under their warranty, you just shipped back the old part. I believe w shipping at the time (2017 if I recall) it was around $1.9k.
Any vehicle issue is no bueno. Seems like it’s one thing after another with my 05 KJ but I just keep fixing it.

Interesting. I’ve never even heard of them before but for the warranty alone, that’s exceptional service. Fortunately to me, I do have another vehicle, my 1983 Dodge Rampage, daily driver right now haha but winter is coming in West Virginia.

I’ll see what happens when my new solenoid block and filter arrives this week. If I have further issues I’ll be on the hunt at the point. I’ll have to check them out then. Thank ya, brother!
 

DakMack

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Just curious - is it possible to buy a remanufactured transmission from MOPAR?
Not that I have seen in my recent studies and I think jasper is the most known. I would always recommend remanufactured over reconditioned.
 

DakMack

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I read your post....look up code p0870. If you read the OBD findings for a p0870 , I didn't see ANYTHING about a "shift pac" . I've attached what I think advisable for you to check. Please read the options to check.
Thanks for taking the time. It’s nice to have a place with like minded people that know these vehicles.

I appreciate your findings as well, I will print them out and take on some more troubleshooting this weekend then report back.

Most everything I saw pertaining to the P0870 code suggested electronic related issues most likely, with possibility of internal fluid leak being less likely.
 

DakMack

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I had the same problem with my 2004 liberty 4x4 shift solenoid code came up first, then going into limp modes, eventually having transmission rebuilt once the again by same shop, and by the way paying two $500 tow bills. With metal shavings in your fluid that'ss not good!
Sorry to hear that. I think most Liberty are notorious to the same problems anyhow. This was my first rebuild and I studied it online and in my DSM and found great videos but I could’ve missed something. I posted pictures and was told that’s normal wear and I’ve heard not good. Obviously not good, I know but I’m unsure how bad. After I try the new solenoid block, if it codes at all I’m dropping it and pulling it apart again. Most likely going reman also but I want to know where the problem lies.
 
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