cooling system problem

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krisP

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replaced water pump and thermostat . No coolant making it to the engine and overheating. Thermostat is in correctly with coil side towards engine and bleeder at 12 oclock
 

krisP

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and no hot air plus coolant level in resivour never dropped and i lost about 2 gallons when i drained it
 
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TypeRx

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Sounds like you have a lot of air in there! You need to "burp" the system and get things moving again.

On another car I've kept the coolant overflow cap open while the car is running - that helps get the air out. Also, I have done coolant on the RS4 but most cars have a coolant bleed bolt that should help get air out


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dude1116

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We have a bleed bolt in the block right by the upper hose....but it sounds like something is clogged... Can you feel coolant flowing through the upper and lower hoses? (careful...upper can be quite hot).
 

TypeRx

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We have a bleed bolt in the block right by the upper hose....but it sounds like something is clogged...



LOL - oops, I thought I was on another forum. Yeah, the bleed is on the upper radiator hose (right side of engine).

Did the water pump go as well? What else could cause a "clog" like this?


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krisP

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I bled the system , I'm thinking clog or faulty thermo , will have to try and put the original back in on Sunday and see . Upper gets flow and real hot and lower stays cold an possible restriction
 

krisP

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Yep mopar , looked a tad different from the original but it's the right fit and part #
 

eradicator006

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Drain the cooling system and then fill it back up through the bleed hole that is on the upper hose. Once it's full there fill the coolant bottle until full. Run engine with heat on full blast until the cooling fan kicks in. Top up coolant as needed.

I've had to drain/fill my cooling system several times last month and doing that method worked every time for me.
 

krisP

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i drained the first time by just removing the lower rad hose since i was changing the t stat anyway , the fluid in the reservoir never budged when i drained or turned the engin back on after everything was reassembled
 

krisP

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im going to try the old tstat first and see , then try burping the system again a few different ways then if that doesnt work flush and do it all over again.
 

krisP

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also if the new water pump i put in was the culprit the upper rad hose wouldnt be hot correct ? the wp ( gates ) spun just fine and i installed it correctly , torqued in quarter turns to 20 ft/lb in a criss cross pattern and then up to 40 .

so tommorw heres the plan....this is to remind myself ha

- try burping the system again ( heat on, rad cap open, bleeder valve )
- swap old tstat back in and test new one
- swap old leaky wp back in
- flush radiator to test flow....even though idk why chanign tstat and wp would cause a plug all of the sudden
- give up and take to dealer
 

uss2defiant

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also if the new water pump i put in was the culprit the upper rad hose wouldnt be hot correct ? the wp ( gates ) spun just fine and i installed it correctly , torqued in quarter turns to 20 ft/lb in a criss cross pattern and then up to 40 .

so tommorw heres the plan....this is to remind myself ha

- try burping the system again ( heat on, rad cap open, bleeder valve )
- swap old tstat back in and test new one
- swap old leaky wp back in
- flush radiator to test flow....even though idk why chanign tstat and wp would cause a plug all of the sudden
- give up and take to dealer


i wouldn't mess with the water pump again.
 

profdlp

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I had trouble getting my cooling system primed when I did mine. I was filling through the radiator, which didn't get me anywhere. I ended up removing one end of the top hose and filling from there.
 

krisP

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I had trouble getting my cooling system primed when I did mine. I was filling through the radiator, which didn't get me anywhere. I ended up removing one end of the top hose and filling from there.

thanks prof. were you getting overheating until you got it? The reservior level doesnt seem to want to move when i start it up but i know i lost at least a gallon or 2 when i took everything apart. Other vehicles ive worked on just suck the coolant in the reservoir up the second i start it or at least when up to temp
 

uss2defiant

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thanks prof. were you getting overheating until you got it? The reservior level doesnt seem to want to move when i start it up but i know i lost at least a gallon or 2 when i took everything apart. Other vehicles ive worked on just suck the coolant in the reservoir up the second i start it or at least when up to temp

that really leaves me to think something is clogged.
When I did mine, I could use either the bleed hole or with the overflow tank.

Unless that new WP was already broken out from the get go.
 

uss2defiant

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run it without a thermostat and see whether it overheats.
you'll still need a gasket on the lower rad hose housing for this.

If it does, then something is clogged or the WP is the issue, i'd say.

Better stock up on DI water for this.
 

profdlp

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thanks prof. were you getting overheating until you got it? The reservior level doesnt seem to want to move when i start it up but i know i lost at least a gallon or 2 when i took everything apart. Other vehicles ive worked on just suck the coolant in the reservoir up the second i start it or at least when up to temp

Yes. The temperature outside was in single digits F and I had no trouble getting the engine temp above the halfway point in no time. Fortunately I was just making a quick trip around the block and it didn't go too far past midway.

It would not slurp any coolant from the reservoir, leading me to think it was a vapor lock. The lower hose was compressing like it was under a vacuum. The more I think about it, I seem to recall dumping some coolant down the lower hose as well.

I think when the lower portion of the engine gets drained it has a hard time filling back up.
 
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