Battery and Alternator Options

[blue_kjR417]

I like lights. I have a lot of lights. What kind of options do I have on upgrading alternators/batteries to keep from killing mine?

 

[Andynator]

This is a good question and thanks for bringing it up. I thought I saw a post where someone had replaced the stock alternator with an upgraded alternator from a Renegade Lib. Would like to hear more details and if it was drop-in or if other widgets had to be upgraded also...

 

[blue_kjR417]

This is a good question and thanks for bringing it up. I thought I saw a post where someone had replaced the stock alternator with an upgraded alternator from a Renegade Lib. Would like to hear more details and if it was drop-in or if other widgets had to be upgraded also...

well i already have a renegade, so that wouldn't help me...

 

[blue_kjR417]

maybe i should restate.
i'm not in "trouble" you might say, with my battery or alternator i'm just looking to beef them up because i'm looking at adding 510watts of light to my already installed 710watts, not counting the stock head lights. probably won't happen anytime soon if ever but i'm just curious

 

[tjkj2002]

A better battery is about the only way.The KJ uses the PCM to control the alternator so adding a bigger alternator will do nothing since the PCM will not any better and can actually reduce power thinking the alternator is overcharging.


The best way is a better battery like this one.............
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc1500series.htm


And to add HID lights since they draw less power then standard halogen bulb offroad lights,expensive but well worth it in the long run.

 

[blue_kjR417]

A better battery is about the only way.The KJ uses the PCM to control the alternator so adding a bigger alternator will do nothing since the PCM will not any better and can actually reduce power thinking the alternator is overcharging.


The best way is a better battery like this one.............
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc1500series.htm


And to add HID lights since they draw less power then standard halogen bulb offroad lights,expensive but well worth it in the long run.

can you convert to HID? i have 4 100w daylighters could i convert them to HID to pull less power?

also what stores can you get those batteries in if any?

 

[Ry' N Jen]

can you convert to HID? i have 4 100w daylighters could i convert them to HID to pull less power?

also what stores can you get those batteries in if any?

Hey Wes,

I've seen conversions for standard headlamps to up-grade to High Intensity Discharge and a few for "Aftermarket" lamps...
The problem with the conversion for aftermarket Driving/Long range lamps is the size of the bulb module. Sometimes they just don't fit within the confines of the lamp unit itself.
When they do fit, the light output itself is not in the optimal location in relation to the lamps reflector and the beam pattern is not as tuned or focused as it would be with the bulb the lamp was designed for.
If you opt for traditional Halogen bulbed lamps, an H1 bulb will out perform an H3 bulb.
The difference is the position of the bulbs filament.

Below is an example of an H1 bulb. Look at the filament. The filament on an
H1 bulb is perpendicular to the mounting base. Radiating the bulbs light output evenly around the lamps reflector, producing a more focused beam pattern.
http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/h1-halogen-replacement-bulbs-c-635.html

With an H3 bulb, the filament is parallel to the bulbs mounting base. Still good light output, but not as good as an H1 bulb.
This also applies to H.I.D. lighting systems.

 

[tjkj2002]

can you convert to HID? i have 4 100w daylighters could i convert them to HID to pull less power?

also what stores can you get those batteries in if any?

KC makes retro fit kits to convert there daylighters to HID's since they use the exact same housing.A 100watt daylighter will pull about 8amps(about) while a 35watt HID daylighter will only pull about 2.8amps while putting out 3 times the light.

As far as the battery if you got a Batteries Plus store nearby they can get them(about $230-$250).

 

[Ry' N Jen]

The KC POD Long Range 70w HID...
Those are one sweet light light setup!
http://www.kchilites.com/store/KC-POD-Long-Range-70w-HID-brCarbon-Fiber-Pair-Pack-9634-P729C142.aspx
And only $2,195.43 per pair!

 

[blue_kjR417]

KC makes retro fit kits to convert there daylighters to HID's since they use the exact same housing.A 100watt daylighter will pull about 8amps(about) while a 35watt HID daylighter will only pull about 2.8amps while putting out 3 times the light.

As far as the battery if you got a Batteries Plus store nearby they can get them(about $230-$250).

Well, what kinda amps am i pullin now with regular daylighters? and would the converted HID put out more light than the regulars too?

Hey Wes,

I've seen conversions for standard headlamps to up-grade to High Intensity Discharge and a few for "Aftermarket" lamps...
The problem with the conversion for aftermarket Driving/Long range lamps is the size of the bulb module. Sometimes they just don't fit within the confines of the lamp unit itself.
When they do fit, the light output itself is not in the optimal location in relation to the lamps reflector and the beam pattern is not as tuned or focused as it would be with the bulb the lamp was designed for.
If you opt for traditional Halogen bulbed lamps, an H1 bulb will out perform an H3 bulb.
The difference is the position of the bulbs filament.

Below is an example of an H1 bulb. Look at the filament. The filament on an
H1 bulb is perpendicular to the mounting base. Radiating the bulbs light output evenly around the lamps reflector, producing a more focused beam pattern.
http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/h1-halogen-replacement-bulbs-c-635.html

With an H3 bulb, the filament is parallel to the bulbs mounting base. Still good light output, but not as good as an H1 bulb.
This also applies to H.I.D. lighting systems.

Its not really about the performance just how much power theyre pullin

 

[blue_kjR417]

oh sorry tjkj i just realized you meant the regular daylighters pull 8 not the converted one

 

[Ry' N Jen]

A H.I.D. lamp module has a capacitor which "Discharges" all at once and "Ignites" the the bulb. Once the bulb is lit, it only requires very low apmerage draw to keep the bulb lit up. Same as stadium lighting, street lamps. Metal halide, sodium, mercury vapour, Iodide lamps.

 

[Powerslave]

If you upgrade your alternator, you need a 2 gauge (or better) power cable required to complete your upgrade. The power cable is mounted between the Battery Positive and Alternator charge post. It is needed as an additional strength for current for the best battery maintenance during higher than normal load times. All power for all systems flows through fuses. Use an inline fuse in this additional power cable mounted close to the battery just like the original power cable is fused to prevent electrical fires.

You are looking at taking 102Amps with 1220 watts of lighting. That's Watts / Volts = amps. Very simple math here. You can get a 180Amp alternator in ebay, that's the most I have seen. If you want more, take it and have it rebuilt, or buy a 35.00 one on Ebay and have IT rebuilt.

Even a normal charge on a Battery requires 30-40 Amps when the car is running. These alternators are about 136 Amps, with a 120 minimum test rating. You're pulling 60 amps with just the first 710 watts of light.

Anyhow, it's a lot of current demand you have, so do it right.

You can also use a Battery isolator and add a second battery.

 

[tjkj2002]

Even a normal charge on a Battery requires 30-40 Amps when the car is running. These alternators are about 136 Amps, with a 120 minimum test rating.
.

You have one dead battery if it requires 30-40 amp recharge for more then 10-15mins.The KJ's systems is vastly different then what most are thinking.The PCM alone controls what the alternator puts out(given for certain rpm ranges) since our alternators do not have any sort of regulators built into them.That means if you have the stock 136amp alternator(3.7 V-6 KJ's) and install a Renagade 160amp alternator you just wasted money since the PCM is programed that it only has a maximum of 136amps to work with.You may be able to have the PCM programmed for the Renagade 160amp alternator but that's about it.

Right from the FSM.............

CHARGING SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION
The charging system consists of:
† Generator
† Electronic Voltage Regulator (EVR) circuitry
within the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
† Ignition switch
† Battery (refer to 8, Battery for information)
† Battery temperature sensor
† Generator Lamp (if equipped)
† Check Gauges Lamp (if equipped)
† Wiring harness and connections (refer to 8, Wiring
for information)
OPERATION
The charging system is turned on and off with the
ignition switch. The system is on when the engine is
running and the ASD relay is energized. When the
ASD relay is on, voltage is supplied to the ASD relay
sense circuit at the PCM. This voltage is connected
through the PCM and supplied to one of the generator
field terminals (Gen. Source +) at the back of the
generator.
The amount of DC current produced by the generator
is controlled by the EVR (field control) circuitry
contained within the PCM. This circuitry is connected
in series with the second rotor field terminal
and ground.
A battery temperature sensor, located in the battery
tray housing, is used to sense battery temperature.
This temperature data, along with data from
monitored line voltage, is used by the PCM to vary
the battery charging rate. This is done by cycling the
ground path to control the strength of the rotor magnetic
field. The PCM then compensates and regulates
generator current output accordingly.
All vehicles are equipped with On-Board Diagnostics
(OBD). All OBD-sensed systems, including EVR
(field control) circuitry, are monitored by the PCM.
Each monitored circuit is assigned a Diagnostic Trouble
Code (DTC). The PCM will store a DTC in electronic
memory for certain failures it detects. Refer to
Diagnostic Trouble Codes in; Powertrain Control
Module; Electronic Control Modules for more DTC
information

Also the only correct way to test the KJ's alternator is to use the DRBIII scan tool,places like autozone can not properly test the KJ's charging system.

Again right from the FSM............

To perform a complete test of the charging system,
refer to the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures
service manual and the DRBIII scan tool.

"Normally" you should never be using more then 40amps anyway,it takes only about 20-25amps to run the basic stuff to keep the engine running in a KJ.