Best practice for buying parts?

[Brendon Holt]

Hey all,

I'm looking at picking up a replacement power steering pump and high pressure line on my Jeep. Which leads me to question what the best place is to get parts from. I've had mixed luck at best with places like Autozone and Oreillys and the box parts stores. Napa seems slightly better, but is there really much of a difference on the quality of the parts you're getting from any of these box stores?

Anyways, just wondering if we've arrived at a best practice for sourcing good quality parts. Nobody wants to do a job twice because their replacement parts were garbage.

 

[lfhoward]

If it were me I would find a low mileage junkyard 3.7 and grab a power steering pump from that. I have found that used Mopar lasts longer and works better than brand new aftermarket for most things. The 3.7 was in not only Liberties, but Commanders, Durangos, Dakotas, Ram 1500”s and Grand Cherokees during its era.

 

[u2slow]

I order most everything online direct to my door. The local auto prats store want anywhere from 1.5-3x the price.

I largely find parts quality to be a wash. Mostly the same jobber junk in different boxes at varied prices. Once in a while you have to do a job again. Guess what - now you're experienced, and it's no big deal.

 

[mercdudecbr600]

Rockauto is my general go-to. They have many options at low(er) costs (and often Mopar stuff). Some downsides though like no direct customer support, formulaic return policy, slow deliveries, sometimes parts aren't accurate described / incorrect sizes. Even if RA says it will work on my application, I like to cross check the part numbers with the manufacturer directly. If I am forced to buy in person then I generally only trust Napa Auto's lifetime stuff.

 

[u2slow]

Even if RA says it will work on my application, I like to cross check the part numbers with the manufacturer directly.

As anyone should do. Note that mfr's can be wrong also.

Parts listing data is a soup made by jobber-parts mfr's, so many of the same errors persist across many retailers. Don't shoot the messenger.

 

[Robochop]

I like to use Amazon and Ebay. Even if you get one that only lasts a couple of years, it's still a good bargain!

 

[mercdudecbr600]

Not if you've got other stuff to do....

 

[u2slow]

Not if you've got other stuff to do....

Suppose you had the extra money for the premium part and it still cacks-out early. Then where you at?

That's right - out the time and money!

I've played the DIY auto repair game for some 35 years now. Best thing I ever did was change/compress my work-life to free up more DIY time.

 

[mercdudecbr600]

sure but my 30 years of wrenching has taught me that good parts generally last and ultimately save time/hassle/money in the long run. YMMV

 

[seafish]

I like to use Amazon and Ebay.

Can't even be sure that you're getting authentic aftermarket parts anymore on those sites…counterfeits are becoming more and more common even with cheap parts. IMO reliable distributors, which at least for now includes those associated with Rockauto, are the way to go.

 

[u2slow]

I don't need 'authentic' anything. The essence of all jobber parts is a cheaper copy of the original.

I buy parts off amazon regularly.

 

[seafish]

The essence of all jobber parts is a cheaper copy of the original.

Of course there is an actual difference between aftermarket parts and counterfeit parts, but we've had that detailed conversation before and you dont seem to care about the difference…of course that's OK by me because its your Jeep, your money and your choice.

 

[KJowner]

I try to get parts from known manufacturers, there are lots of decent quality parts, there are also lots of awful Chinese parts, I've found the wheel bearings they make last around a year so the initial low cost isn't as good as it sounds.

 

[u2slow]

I've found the wheel bearings they make last around a year so the initial low cost isn't as good as it sounds.

I found short life on rockauto's cheapest unit bearings also. At $60 it didn't much matter. The real hard work of un-seizing bolts had now been done. I chose Timken next. They are lasting well. At this point I have no need to pay even more for SKF or Mopar.

 

[KJowner]

I found short life on rockauto's cheapest unit bearings also. At $60 it didn't much matter. The real hard work of un-seizing bolts had now been done. I chose Timken next. They are lasting well. At this point I have no need to pay even more for SKF or Mopar.

The annoyance of having to repeat a job and pay twice is enough to ensure I only fit decent parts, I could do with a new set of injectors & I see full sets of Chinese CRD ones on Ebay for the cost of 1 new Bosch, however I don't particularly want to burn a hole in a piston so I'll stump up for the real thing or a set of service exchange ones from a real Bosch agent, sadly you *** what you pay for.

 

[KJowner]

???? GET is blocked by the swear filter

 

[seafish]

???? GET is blocked by the swear filter

WTF?

 

[seafish]

Many people also misunderstand that "Lifetime" warranty doesn't mean for the life of the vehicle but rather for the life of the part…in other words, if it fails once, it will be replaced under warranty, but if the replacement part then fails, it's on you to BUY another one.

 

[u2slow]

The annoyance of having to repeat a job and pay twice is enough to ensure I only fit decent parts...

I'm rarely annoyed. All parts get used up. It's about maximizing the time or miles for the $ spent.

sadly you *** what you pay for.

Hasn't been the case for me. Qualities are too random, and the parts stores are gouging.

That's why start at the cheapest. Once it's used up, I re-evaluate if a better one is required.