Attaching Rear License Plate Securely

[goatkj]

The rear license plate top screws are stripping out. For the bottom two license plate holes, I used stainless hardware (allen head machine screw) and attached a washer and locknut to the backside, but this isn't easy to do with the top holes.

Any ideas out there for securely attaching the rear license plate to the plastic bumper?

Thanks much!

 

[azmotoman]

Yeah, use a molly bolt anchor. Since it is going into plastic, I would opt for a molly. You can purchase them at your local hardware store for pennies. Just gauge or measure the thickness of the material and buy the appropriate grip molly fastener. Simple, easy to install and use, inexpensive and nearly permanent. If you ever have to remove one, just remove the screw, drill the head off of the molly base/body and install whatever you wish later.

See here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molly_bolt

and about halfway down the page here: http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/inffastener/infanchor/infanchor.html

 

[goatkj]

I appreciate this help, thank you!

Now if our Jeeps had metal bumpers, I'd probably want to install one of these, with a magnet underneath to catch the cap (see attached photo)...

 

[Porkchop]

You can get one of those for you trailer hitch but it will have to be tested many times after you install it

 

[azmotoman]

You are welcome. As for the opener: we have one mounted in the galley of our teardrop trailer - mostly for friends. I'm a bourbon and scotch man.

 

[Dave]

You could try wraping some "plumbers tape" around the bolts and see if that would "tighten" them up a little?

Dave

 

[tommudd]

Two bolts either top or bottom is enough to hold the palte on, I only use the top since, well the bottom 5 inches of my bumper is gone :icon_twisted:

 

[goatkj]

"Short" 1/8" molly bolt anchors worked for top

The "short" 1/8" molly bolt anchor worked for top, but I had to drill a 5/16" hole to accomodate the anchors on the main bumper, and directly behind it on the top left hole is a black piece of plastic (part of some "hidden" trim).

While trying to drill through this back piece of plastic (being careful to avoid any hidden wiring), the drill bit caught and pulled the drill into the metal body, somewhat going into a factory taped up hole. Ouch! It doesn't show at all from the exterior, but I was bummed at the thought of introducing a potential rust point on the body. Overall, not a big deal, but something to beware of when drilling there...

Really happy with how it all turned out though, thanks for the idea of the molly bolts!!! I still stuck with the SS allen bolts on the bottom, of which there was no obstructions there to installation.

 

[Ry' N Jen]

Just use good double side tape.

 

[LibertyFever]

Personally I'd like to mount mine to my spare tire;

You must be registered for see images attach

hmmm...I never noticed that before, it doesn't have a lamp. In North America our rear facing license plates require illumination.

 

[honu]

I had the same problem. I bought 4 brass inserts, threaded on the outside for wood, inside for machine screws.

I drilled out the holes to clean them up and to match the diameter of the inserts. Obviously, the bumper cover is "thin", so I mixed up a bit of epoxy and coated the outside threads. After installing them and letting the epoxy set up, they are now a permanent fixture in the cover... no way they're coming out without cutting the bumper around the inserts.

I just used stainless button head screws to attach the plate. Did this about 5 years ago, still tight as the day it was done.

 

[Banditsteve]

Get the drill out and get drilling!! Hehe. But if you do, mind the bacing bars in the tailgate for the wheel carrier.

 

[Banditsteve]

Personally I'd like to mount mine to my spare tire;

You must be registered for see images attach

hmmm...I never noticed that before, it doesn't have a lamp. In North America our rear facing license plates require illumination.

They do have illumination. They have 2 lights in that bulge above the plate and below the Jeep logo.

 

[honu]

Get the drill out and get drilling!! Hehe. But if you do, mind the bacing bars in the tailgate for the wheel carrier.

I was under the impression that the license plate was mounted on the urethane bumper cover, like mine is, not on the sheet metal tail gate. The method I suggested would not be viable in such an application.

On a metal tail gate, I'd open the holes up carefully and use a TIG welder to tack in four "captured" nuts, then seal, prime and paint the area to prevent corrosion. The work would be behind the license plate, so it wouldn't be noticable if the finish wasn't perfect.

Best of luck with the repair.

 

[LibertyFever]

Get the drill out and get drilling!! Hehe. But if you do, mind the bacing bars in the tailgate for the wheel carrier.

I like that idea. I thought all European license plates were long?

 

[Banditsteve]

I like that idea. I thought all European license plates were long?

Most of them are till you change them. You are allowed to sort of change them around a little bit so long as the letter size and spacing and colours stay the same within reason. Older cars (Pre '73 I think) are allowed silver on black. Motorcycle ones are a bit smaller but I sort of take the p*ss a bit with mine cos its only a fine when you get caught which isn't too often. The price you have to pay to be different! Hehe. :smokin: