30k Maintenance?

[rchung813]

If you're not familar with fixing automobiles nor do you have the equipment, how much would you pay for a 30k maintenance schedule? My local dealer has a filer which says

1. Change oil and oil filter
2. Major lubrication
3. Check Fluids & add if necessary
4. Replace:
(a) spark plugs if necessary (piat plug additional)
(b) air filter
(c) fuel filter
(d) pvc valve if necessary
(e) breather element
(f) roter & cap (ignition wires additional)
(g) add fuel injection cleaner to gas tank
(h) add oil additive to crank case
(i) anti-freeze (2 gal)
5. service & clean battery terminals
6. Replace belts
7. Pressure check cooling systems:
(a) check hoses, tighten loose connections
(b) check anti-freeze
8. repack wheel bears (except jeep)
9. check front end for wear
10. rotate & balance tires
11. check brakes and adjust
12. check alignment
13. check tire pressure
14. service transmission:
(a) replace filter & fluid (special filters additional)
15. replace axle fluid, front and rear
16. replace transfer case fluid
16. replace transfer case fluid
17. DRB test
18. road test vechicle

.....all for the price of $749.95

I'm near my 30k mark and wanted to know how much should someone pay for maintenace? I live in an urban area and I would assume prices maybe slightly higher than rural prices. but who knows..

 

[rchung813]

BTW, is there a single post that will us what are ALL Morpars recommended oil types our KJ? ie. transmission, diffs, etc... I see many post scatter around with different oil types and different parts, maybe I over looked it?

Thanks

 

[Powerslave]

1: Should be done every 3K miles with Dino oil, 6-9K with Synthetic.

4: There is nothing to Lube, there are no grease gun fittings.

4-a: Don't need to change plugs at 30K, don't NEED to... If you do, I used Platinum, and probably won't have to change them ever again.

4b: Should be done every 7 to 12k miles - depends on area driving.

4f: There is no cap and rotor, and no plug wires, just plug coils.

4h: Don't; use Synthetic Oil if you are thinking of doing that...

6. Replace Belts - There is only ONE belt.

11. Check brakes and "Adjust"? If there are no DRUM brakes, there is nothing to adjust.

#3, Kind of goes along with anything that has fluids, that ya mentioned later, like 5h & i, 7b (repetitive as stated in 5i), 15 & 16. #3 would also include Power Steering fluid, which you did not mention, and mentioned everything else.

#10 and 13 should done together...

17 & 18? Really?

$750.00? Wow. Lots of items on that list don't apply to this Jeep, and most new fuel injected cars of the times... That looks like a 1980s check-list...

 

[tommudd]

powerslave, question

don't need to change plugs at 30,000 miles ??????????????????

I change mine every 28,000/30,000 and then they are on the down side, going longer is hurting mileage and performance!!!

also bring it over to my place whole lot cheaper and will train you in what to look for and whet things cost! LOL

 

[tjkj2002]

4-a: Don't need to change plugs at 30K, don't NEED to... If you do, I used Platinum, and probably won't have to change them ever again.

Yes they should,the OEM plugs are copper core and are shot at 30,000miles.


To the OP..............

The '07 KJ has a different maintenance schedule then other KJ's but plugs is a 30k service.Check the owners manual and look at schedule "B" for your maintenance schedule.Alignments should be done at least once a year if not once every 6 months along with balancing/rotating the tires(extends tire life).It's also a very good idea to have the fuel injection system cleaned(professionally) right before a spark plug change(they need to be changed after anyways) since it will keep your mpg's up and using the best gas will not prevent carbon buildup.

 

[rchung813]

Thanks all, I appreicate all the feed back. I guess there are tons to learn and pick up here

 

[sleeve]

First - That "list" seems outdated and very general in nature but otherwise awfully expensive.

An example: 4h - the Coolant should be good for 60,000 miles or 5 years on new Chrysler / Jeep and Dodge products. It doesn't need to be repalced every 30K miles as indicated on your flyer.


I would imagine you could try a different dealer and cut the cost in half [using the owners manual as a guide to tell you what needs to be done]

 

[kb0nly]

sleeve beat me to it, i was going to say the same thing on the coolant. With the pink coolant the KJ uses you don't have to do it as often as you did with the green. I used to flush and fill every couple years with the green coolant. I've talked to mechanics who said they have yet to flush and fill a system on the newer style coolants. And even then i was told that if your using the standard green coolant it really depends on if you mixed and filled it correctly in the first place, distilled water, correct proportion, etc...

Hey if your close enough to one of these guys take the offer to swing by and get a how-to from them. If not read up in the how-to section on here, it's the best on the net in my opinion!

It's all simple stuff. If i can teach my female neighbor, in her 40's who has never changed oil before, to change her oil and top off all the fluids to save money doing it herself you sure can!

PS: She was tired of getting stiffed $40 for a service every 2-3 months. All they did was change the oil, filter, and check or replace the air filter. Now she does the same thing for about $20 herself, after borrowing my ramps of course but what the heck, she always washes them before returning!!

 

[Powerslave]

My plugs, at 58K (bought it that way) were ORIGINAL, and they were FINE! I replaced them with Platinum, which have a 60-100k life span, so I probably won't have to change them ever again. I will, only of I get a set of the Diamond Fire plugs for a considerable discount, or free... Otherwise, I am leaving my +2 Platinum in... The motor will probably be shot before I "NEED" to replace those.

 

[Jeepin05]

Woah, for that price I would have to ask for all the old parts back of what was supposedly replaced (spark plugs, filters, rotor/cap, belts).

Hate to say it, but with that service, I wouldn't be surprised at all if they skipped steps.

I think you could do the basics yourself, and save the outstanding money for a lift .

 

[RenegadeJay]

I would bet somewhere on the flyer it says "for most vehicles" on it, like all bogus advertising does. I love when someone advertises something for a certain price and when you go in they change it becuase your model is different. In this case, it seems way expensive. Although when I had my rear window regulator replaced, they wanted to charge me $70 for a "saftey" inspection, which was pretty much checking to see if any of that work needed to be done. A lot of those "check" line items Jiffy Lube does while they change your oil all for the $29.95. And Jiffy Lube tops off your fluids for ya.

 

[tjkj2002]

My plugs, at 58K (bought it that way) were ORIGINAL, and they were FINE! I replaced them with Platinum, which have a 60-100k life span, so I probably won't have to change them ever again. I will, only of I get a set of the Diamond Fire plugs for a considerable discount, or free... Otherwise, I am leaving my +2 Platinum in... The motor will probably be shot before I "NEED" to replace those.

Doubt the OEM plugs where any good with 58,000miles on them,bet the gaps where double of what they where supposed to be.As far as platinum plugs they will not last anywhere near 100,000 miles,have not seen one platinum plug last much past 90,000miles before they started throwing misfire codes.If you want to reach that 100,000 miles mark you need to start looking at Denso Iridium plugs.

RenegadeJay . A lot of those "check" line items Jiffy Lube does while they change your oil all for the $29.95. And Jiffy Lube tops off your fluids for ya.

Yeah and Jiffy lube will swear up and down they greased your KJ also when in stock form there is not one grease zerk.

 

[Powerslave]

I had Bosch +2 plugs in my avenger V6, 153K miles on it at trade in, and I think I changed them at about 60K, so do the math. Did not get UNDER 20MPG ever, and got 30+ highway. They last... Ran smooth as silk, ALWAYS...

 

[tjkj2002]

I had Bosch +2 plugs in my avenger V6, 153K miles on it at trade in, and I think I changed them at about 60K, so do the math. Did not get UNDER 20MPG ever, and got 30+ highway. They last... Ran smooth as silk, ALWAYS...

Highly doubt it,never seen a avenger or any Chrysler car run smooth(even brand new).

 

[Powerslave]

Highly doubt it,never seen a avenger or any Chrysler car run smooth(even brand new).

The 1995-2000 Avenger ES V6 had the Mitsubishi V6 2.5 (under bored 3.0) engine. All the counter weights were on the crank, and this car runs SMOOTH AS SILK, as does the same year Cirrus, Stratus (I also had a 2000 LXi), and Sebring; all non convertibles, with this V6 engine. I owned a 2000 Avenger ES, and a 2000 Cirrus LXi (company car) and you can't even tell it was running at idle, and acceleration was smooth. I AM TELLING YOU, and I could care less what the hell you claim you THINK, I owned one, I know how they run. AND, I had the +2 platinum plugs in it since the 60K mile change, and 153K at trade = 93k miles with them in, and oh gee-****, no missifres. I did the Cap, Rotor and plugs at the same time, YES they had a distributor, with built in coil, and cam position sensor.

You're gonna tell ME they are not smooth? You can Kiss my tail-pipe (after running the car all day), I owned it, and was the best car I ever had. I was sick of the SLEDDING in winter, and the body needed more work than I was prepared to do, so I traded it. No work was done on the motor or transmission, or drive-line. Original rack, pumps, water pump and timing belt, engine gaskets, all at 153K. This car ran smooth baby, SMOOTH! I loved it. You're just mad 'cause you said Platinum plugs won't last past 90k miles, well, tough moldy dog doo-doo to you, 'cause yes they do...

 

[tjkj2002]

The 1995-2000 Avenger ES V6 had the Mitsubishi V6 2.5 (under bored 3.0) engine. All the counter weights were on the crank, and this car runs SMOOTH AS SILK, as does the same year Cirrus, Stratus (I also had a 2000 LXi), and Sebring; all non convertibles, with this V6 engine. I owned a 2000 Avenger ES, and a 2000 Cirrus LXi (company car) and you can't even tell it was running at idle, and acceleration was smooth. I AM TELLING YOU, and I could care less what the hell you claim you THINK, I owned one, I know how they run. AND, I had the +2 platinum plugs in it since the 60K mile change, and 153K at trade = 93k miles with them in, and oh gee-****, no missifres. I did the Cap, Rotor and plugs at the same time, YES they had a distributor, with built in coil, and cam position sensor.

You're gonna tell ME they are not smooth? You can Kiss my tail-pipe (after running the car all day), I owned it, and was the best car I ever had. I was sick of the SLEDDING in winter, and the body needed more work than I was prepared to do, so I traded it. No work was done on the motor or transmission, or drive-line. Original rack, pumps, water pump and timing belt, engine gaskets, all at 153K. This car ran smooth baby, SMOOTH! I loved it. You're just mad 'cause you said Platinum plugs won't last past 90k miles, well, tough moldy dog doo-doo to you, 'cause yes they do...

"Mitsubishi" is all needed to confirm a very bad engine,1st biggest issue is they eat oil rings like candy,they can't build a engine either.I'm not mad just stating reality,oh and I'd really hate to see the condition that car was with zero maintenance,must have traded it in in one of those "push,pull,or drag" deals.

 

[Powerslave]

"Mitsubishi" is all needed to confirm a very bad engine,1st biggest issue is they eat oil rings like candy,they can't build a engine either.I'm not mad just stating reality,oh and I'd really hate to see the condition that car was with zero maintenance,must have traded it in in one of those "push,pull,or drag" deals.

IF you want to see the condition it was in, just look at my FaceBook or Myspace photos. You'll see, you're just jelouse you can't afford to upkeep a car in like new condition all the time, poor poor man...

Ha, you make it seem like the thing was never taken care of? Up yours, "push,pull,or drag"; there was nothing wrong with it mechanically. The engine & bay was always cleaned, oil kept changed. I would rather have any Mitsubishi V6 over any Chrysler V6. It was only starting to rust at the bottom of the rear fender-wells, driver side I had to patch up. The engine did not burn oil, no loss of compression in any cylinder, hydraulic lash adjusters were fine; no taps or ticks in the valvetrain. Oh, it also needed a FLEX pipe on the rear header pipe, as that was also original. Almost 10 years old, and it looked awesome every day...

You don't have a clue as to what you are talking about, so you can kiss my taint, sorry, but you're being an ******* about it, and why is that? As I said, you probably just don't have the money to keep a car like new, I do, and it was in excellent shape when traded in. It sold immediately, and I saw it a few weeks ago, in South Side, PGH PA. Still in excellent shape.

It had a front lower frame tie, rear frame tie, front strut brace. All this can be seen at MySpace or FaceBook... I ran the piss out of it too man, and it, just like the energizer bunny; kept going and going. Like that one do ya?

I really feel sorry for you, that you have to think no one can keep a car like new. Yeah, I think that is the MAIN reason why you never see any awesome looking CLASSIC cars now days, hmmm, must be... I guess the MECUM AUCTIONS are just a farce, because all those cars have to be "pushed,pulled,or dragged" to the auction block, because no one, NO ONE couls possibly have the time and money to keep it looking new... Yeah, that's it man, you're right, people just don't have it in 'em to keep up with their stuff, what a shame...

 

[rchung813]

Woah, for that price I would have to ask for all the old parts back of what was supposedly replaced (spark plugs, filters, rotor/cap, belts).

Hate to say it, but with that service, I wouldn't be surprised at all if they skipped steps.

I think you could do the basics yourself, and save the outstanding money for a lift .

Agreed!

BTW, lets all play nice in the sandbox please

 

[tjkj2002]

IF you want to see the condition it was in, just look at my FaceBook or Myspace photos. You'll see, you're just jelouse you can't afford to upkeep a car in like new condition all the time, poor poor man...

Ha, you make it seem like the thing was never taken care of? Up yours, "push,pull,or drag"; there was nothing wrong with it mechanically. The engine & bay was always cleaned, oil kept changed. I would rather have any Mitsubishi V6 over any Chrysler V6. It was only starting to rust at the bottom of the rear fender-wells, driver side I had to patch up. The engine did not burn oil, no loss of compression in any cylinder, hydraulic lash adjusters were fine; no taps or ticks in the valvetrain. Oh, it also needed a FLEX pipe on the rear header pipe, as that was also original. Almost 10 years old, and it looked awesome every day...

You don't have a clue as to what you are talking about, so you can kiss my taint, sorry, but you're being an ******* about it, and why is that? As I said, you probably just don't have the money to keep a car like new, I do, and it was in excellent shape when traded in. It sold immediately, and I saw it a few weeks ago, in South Side, PGH PA. Still in excellent shape.

It had a front lower frame tie, rear frame tie, front strut brace. All this can be seen at MySpace or FaceBook... I ran the piss out of it too man, and it, just like the energizer bunny; kept going and going. Like that one do ya?

I really feel sorry for you, that you have to think no one can keep a car like new. Yeah, I think that is the MAIN reason why you never see any awesome looking CLASSIC cars now days, hmmm, must be... I guess the MECUM AUCTIONS are just a farce, because all those cars have to be "pushed,pulled,or dragged" to the auction block, because no one, NO ONE couls possibly have the time and money to keep it looking new... Yeah, that's it man, you're right, people just don't have it in 'em to keep up with their stuff, what a shame...

Sorry lack of maintenance will always result in a bad running(or not running) vehicle 99.99% of the time after 100,000miles.Most vehicles will run okay up to about 100,000miles with little to no maintenance but ussually end up being towed in,seen it happen all to often from owners saying I didn't know I was supposed to have that changed. Been turning wrenches for almost a 20 years,ASE Master Tech(mulitple GM and Chrysler certifications also), and know what vehicles tend to last and ones that don't and what common problems certain vehicles have in general.Oh and you have a Chrysler V-6.You might want to come look at my KJ,bet ya it's in better condition then your KJ and mines a '02 and I beat the snot out of mine(on and off road).Has it had problems? sure but I take care most of them before they can start(called routine maintenance) and quickly fix the ones that just happen which will happen on all vehicles regardless of make or model.As we speak my KJ is getting a whole new suspension and virtually the entire drivetrain replaced and for one reason and one reason only.....................

So I can regear correctly so to relieve the added stress of what I put my KJ through.

 

[rchung813]

Hey if your close enough to one of these guys take the offer to swing by and get a how-to from them. If not read up in the how-to section on here, it's the best on the net in my opinion!

It's all simple stuff. If i can teach my female neighbor, in her 40's who has never changed oil before, to change her oil and top off all the fluids to save money doing it herself you sure can!

PS: She was tired of getting stiffed $40 for a service every 2-3 months. All they did was change the oil, filter, and check or replace the air filter. Now she does the same thing for about $20 herself, after borrowing my ramps of course but what the heck, she always washes them before returning!!

I think I may do that, but I am always afraid of messing it up and possibly causing problems for my jeep. I'll take a double look at the oil changes and spark plugs too