'02 KJ Re-Commissioning

[Scottch]

Hi guys,

If you read my "Hi" thread, thanks for the welcome. I've already touched on some of our KJ problems there.

I thought it would be best if I started a new thread here with the various problems I've found on our '02 KJ 3.7 Limited that we are using to get us to Rome, from Edinburgh, as part of the Rust2Rome charity rally.

We found our 108k miler KJ in a sorry state, and the owner was desperate to get rid of it. A deal was struck and we came in under budget, as defined in the Rust2Rome rules.

So, after a few days of picking away at the thing, I've found the following problems:-

Aircon, not working - possibly just needs regassed (I hope)
Cruise - not working, lights up but doesn't hold speed.
Front propshaft - was in the trunk, seized UJ's. New one found, and ordered.
Tailgate - doesn't open at all.
Oil leak - need to get it up on the ramp and find the source.
EML light illuminated - OBD2 reader delivered this morning.
Central locking not fully operational.
Hood gas struts US - new ones delivered this morning.
Mixed tyres - replacement for the odd ones ordered.
Auto shifter - "trigger" stuck in.
Auto shifter - doesn't illuminate. Bulb ordered.
Crankcase vent valve - broken, and bodged with duct tape.

I'll be doing a fluid change (engine, coolant, gearbox, diff') before our trip.

I've got the FSM and the parts fiche.

I'm hopeful that some of you guys have had, and rectified some of these problems and feel like sharing your solutions. It'll certainly help us get the car back to it's original condition.

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer!

Cheers!

Scott

 

[Scottch]

A wee update.

New hood struts fitted this morning, they're working a treat.
Plugged in the OBD2, and got 4 codes out.
P0443 - Evaporative emission system purge control valve circuit
P0352 - Ignition coil b primary/secondary circuit
P0354 - Ignition coil d primary/secondary circuit
P0301 - Cylinder 1 misfire detected

Since I don't know how long these have been present, I've erased them already and taken the car for a drive, and plugged in OBD2 again.

This time, I only got 2 codes
P0443 - Evaporative emission system purge control valve circuit
P0301 - Cylinder 1 misfire detected

Am I right in thinking that the P0443 code could be related to the crankcase vent valve?

I've got a replacement coming so quite hopeful about that.

P0301, on the other hand. A change of plugs required?

Any help/advice appreciated

 

[uss2defiant]

I'm not an expert on these items.
When you say crankcase vent valve do you mean the PCV?
If so I think that is a passive system and has no sensors to it.

A quick google of P0443 seems to point to the evap purge solenoid or a leak in your evap. system.

I'd certainly change the plugs if they haven't been changed. They're cheap items to replace. The factory NGK plugs are arguably good replacements.

You might want to check the state of all the ignition coils as well. You can switch ignition coil #1 with another one to see whether the misfiring problem follows.

I'm sure others will chime in, in a few hours.

 

[Scottch]

I'm not sure what the PCV is?

Crankcase vent valve is how it's referred to in the parts fiche, though.

It's the elbow/valve section on the oil filler tube if that helps.

 

[uss2defiant]

yeah... that's just a passive system.
PCV = positive crankcase valve.

might help to change it out if it is stuck and if you have oil consumption issues.
Has nothing to do with the P0443

P0443 Evap Purge Solenoid Circuit - An open or shorted condition detected in the EVAP purge solenoid control circuit.
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/generic-chrysler-diagnostic-trouble-code-list-39860/

refer to this thread which might help
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/purge-solenoid-replacement-cost-35504/

 

[LibertyTC]

When it come to misfires always start with the spark plug, use the recommended one on the under hood label, gap it right too. (copper core) plugs do all of them every 30k miles.
The PCV valve is located on the oil filler neck, careful, it twists out, so I use a hair dryer to warm things up first before removing hose, then twist it counterclockwise out.
Check for cracked or broken lines/ vac lines around or ahead of the fuel tank as well.
Vac lines under hood too.

 

[uss2defiant]

You're up early LibertyTC

 

[Scottch]

Thanks guys, have ordered a purge solenoid so can change that too.

Going to pick up a set of plugs on the way home from work. Will swap them out next.

 

[Scottch]

How bizarre!

The rear tail gate has decided to spring back into life

 

[twowings]

Don't forget to inspect all your CV joints and make sure you can remove all lug nuts manually...you don't want a frozen nut keeping you from replacing a punctured tyre....

 

[Scottch]

CV joints inspected, everything looks good there.

Had the wheels off, and swapped the tyres that needed replacing. Lug nuts all ok

New crankcase vent valve arrived today. That's on my list for tomorrow.

Hopefully the new front propshaft will arrive tomorrow as well. We just got snow today, so it'd be great if I can get that fitted, just in case we need it in 4WD.

Got the bulb replaced for the auto shift indicator, but in the process of refitting the plastic surround, we managed to break it. DOH! I need to remove the shifter now to get the old part off, and a new part on.

Also managed to get the underside up on the ramps at a local trucking company who were good enough to steam clean all the old oil off. Looks like our oil leak is coming from the sump gasket. PHEW! I'll swap it out when I change the oil.

We're getting there!

 

[CalcityRenegade]

Rust2Rome looks like tons of fun! Any pictures of your project KJ?

 

[tlrtucker]

If you're getting a leak code it's always a good idea to check the rubber hoses going into and out of the emissions canister back by the fuel tank. It's a very common issue with KJ's to get a split in one or more of those hoses that cause people nightmares trying to track down.

When it come to misfires always start with the spark plug, use the recommended one on the under hood label, gap it right too. (copper core) plugs do all of them every 30k miles...

If it's a misfire due to the coil, the sure way to confirm is to swap it out with another coil from a different cylinder, clear the codes and run it again and see what code it throws. If you get a misfire from the cylinder you swapped it too then you know it's the coil. That way you don't spend money on a new coil when the problem was something else.

Just be careful running an engine with a misfire - it can trash your cats and maybe cause other issues.

 

[Scottch]

lol

Well, whad'ya know? The purge solenoid was unplugged.

Today, so far, new crankcase vent valve fitted, and just about to start swapping the plugs out.

 

[Scottch]

Rust2Rome looks like tons of fun! Any pictures of your project KJ?

I sure do

These couple are after we got her home.

Interior needed cleaning at a biological level - it was filthy, and stinking.

The outside was just washed before I took the exterior shot. I've since machine polished it, swapped a couple of tyres and tomorrow I'm painting the wheels.

That should make it a lot more presentable.

I have to say, I'm becoming quite fond of this old girl.

 

[Scottch]

I think I've found the source of the misfire on #1

 

[uss2defiant]

gap for the NKG ZFR6F is 0.04".

might want to run a fuel system cleaner in the gas tank for a long test drive after you're all done.
Either gumout regane or Chevron Techron Concentrate.

Another thought would be to check the belt and the pulleys as well.
Might want to flush the brake fluid and PS atf+4 too if they havent been done in a while.

 

[Scottch]

The belt and the pulleys look/feel fine, they run pretty pretty quiet as well. Don't think I've got an issue there.

We'll be taking a spare belt with us on R2R just in case, though.

Not had much chance to take the car for a decent run, other than the 80 miles (or so) when I saved her from the previous owners.

Hopefully, I'll manage this weekend.

No sign of that front propshaft delivery I was expecting today :-/

 

[Scottch]

I've found the following problems:-

Aircon, not working - possibly just needs regassed (I hope)
Cruise - not working, lights up but doesn't hold speed.
Front propshaft - Replacement front propshaft ordered.
Oil leak - Pressure cleaned underneath. Looks like the sump gasket needs swapped.
Central locking not fully operational.
Auto shifter - "trigger" stuck in.

I'll be doing a fluid change (engine, coolant, gearbox, diff') before our trip.

Updated list of faults and problems

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Congrats on reviving the KJ/Cherokee! Excellent work :waytogo:

As far as the oil leak goes... The gasket for the sump (or oil pan here in the States) is very difficult to replace. I requires the engine to be lifted off the motor mounts, the sump removed, and then the oil pickup tube and windage tray removed - the gasket and windage tray are one and the same unit. Here's what the windage tray and oil pickup tube looks like:

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I would suggest you look to the front crankshaft seal as the culprit. If there is an oil leak at the front seal the oil drips down the timing cover and runs along the sump/oil pan and makes it appear the sump gasket has failed. And the front seal is A LOT easier to replace than the sump gasket. You'll need a special puller to get the harmonic balancer off the crankshaft but then getting the front seal out and a new one installed is fairly straightforward. Search the "How To" section for a step-by-step.

Again, thanks for saving a KJ from an owner who didn't much care for her arty52:

Bob