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Post lift mine has always had much more feedback. Alignment has been dead on, but if you jump in a stocker it's clear that you feel much more disconnected. I blame Tie Rod angle to the rack

My 04 LTD is chipped, thought all were

That was one of the first to have the JBA 6". Was on Lost, sold it for a wrangler

Never heard of one and I'm taking a wild guess that it's because we have a rack and pinion set up

OME HD, 245/75/16 revo's, 3.73's In city driving ~13,14 Highway ~24 (if you go 55,60) Interstate ~20 in good weather at 75,80 ~ 16 in bad wind, snow, and cold (even on a 500 mile drive) In small town driving style I used to get ~15,16... But Omaha isn't exactly the slowest place...

On mine with OME 927/948 with 1/8" clevis lift the front is 1" below the rear which is slightly more than stock (with the rear empty) That said if you're the type that just wants to run 245/75/16's on the min. amount of lift I would consider 927/947 combo. If you carry around 100+ lbs in the...

Um, forgot his name but one of the guys in Florida with a tan KJ I believe with a rockstar bumper, Franky, and 265/75/16 mudders played tag with a BMW or Mercedes I believe.

They'll stick out, check out any of the kjs with cragar's and thats the usual size/ back spacing

With a 4wd, you can play in 18 inches... Just saying. Put it in 2wd and you're done right away. Heck driving to school from the dorms in 2wd up an icy hill the rear end is swaying all of the place.

Depends, if you were looking at serious stuff CV's , Ball joints, Tie Rods ends, drive shafts, even the front diff Light stuff, have the same stuff you'd take on a long road trip.

What post are you refering to Tony. Running 32s? or a picture of a failed strut? Or another more informational post not in response to me?

First thanks for giving some thought to your position. Tony: I have no explaination to the bump stop stock to stock differences. Didn't design it, but I'd like to see the reasoning for someone with that information. I'll reread later but I agree with most of what you said. Only thing that...

Oh just because I reread your message and saw this... And because you are trying to make my ideas seem illogical, YOU have given NO proof for the "younger" generation to learn WHY they're needed. I'll know when it can be explained using ideas involving points of compression on equipment. Not "he...

So you.. have any substantial proof that a bumpstop would have stopped that from happening? Not to do with the strut design right? Or just that "one" that has a problem. Or it could possibly be from the design of the A-arms and stock bumpstops IF the bend in the arm slightly changes of...

On a IFS + IRS jeep sure maybe closer... Anything with a solid axle not so much. If you go from a 29 to a 31, thats a 2 inch increase. Because the axle is in the center of the wheel, the jeep will be 1 " higher and the tire will be 1 " taller in the wheel well. And as far as the front struts...

You'll get more than the 1.5 OME states because of the application you use them in. If you have a stock KJ they say the 350lb coils are good for 1.5", therefore the 400lb coils will not be compressed as much and the jeep will be taller with HD coils. I know I never saw the 2.5- 3" ppl claim but...

In my jeep (04), the old 02's Jeep one fits... so I would assume all are the same.

That's "2006KJ" made as a joke video with his dad's wheels on. Normally he runs 265/75/16 iroks I believe

OD off works wonders with 31's even. In a city with a rather hard driving style and speeds that hang out between 40-60 in town having the OD kick in at 40 bites and makes the tranny search.

Ever driven a jeep with the 42RLE?. 2500= ~80 maybe more The Mech. Fan is more in play during low speed with more than typical RPM's anyway