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Yes, electric fan should blow in through radiator toward engine, mine does. Mine is 3 wire and 05.

Your meter is not set right --your are switched to milli volts--should be set to milli amps. But if the load is over 200 mills the fuse in meter will blow.

I wondered when someone would respond with that:D

There's not even a period at the end.

Now you know why the mileage is as low as it is----------

Seal trans pan bolt w/ RTV Troy has mentioned this-It's either the second from the front or second from the back on the drivers side of trans pan. You can see that the threaded hole goes into the sump reservoir and can leak past the threads. The other bolt holes are blind holes into the case...

The librarian thought it was way too loud and turned it off.

That's for the speedometer, for the hall effect sensor to count revolutions.

Probably a cheap cap, made in china--

Gas cap

A 2PDT will work, connect fan to common and have it toggle between "normal" and connecting 12 v to high fan only. I used a DPDT relay at fan area and just ran to SPST switch to control the relay--less wires to run.

What ever happened on the insurance settlement, if it was posted I missed it. As far as your question, the answer is sure go for it.

The red Loctite has to be heated to remove, use the blue Loctite on bolts you will want to remove.

Got mine done this morning, done in less than an hour.

Ordered the hitch wiring kit(curt#55382) from best buy, on sale for $27.99, with free shipping.

Have mine setup for this coming Tuesday, anyone have it installed yet?

Probably a flux capacitor for going back to the future

Ever think about finding the place to connect before taking the battery loose?

chiropractor

that's 3/16" difference