What did you do to your jeep today?
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Kal-El
Full Access Member
Finally got the control arms recall completed.
Charlesthe2nd
Full Access Member
No, that was somewhat before my time. I had called her Marshmallow for a long time, and when my wife and I started dating, she told me that it needed an actual name, because she wasn't going to call the Jeep Marshmallow. We settled on Mindy because she has a mind of her own.
Have been trying to figure out the clunking I get in the rear over bumps. Put in the y link extension to see if that would help. Not really but now the minor vibrations is gone, although it is the original tri-link and is 13 years old. I have tried tightening the shocks as much as possible. Not sure if it might be the exhaust, since that hanger is rotting. Even thought about swapping the new rear shocks for bilsteins.
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Got the detroit in the 9". Only took me about 18 hours working in the corner of my shed with a small led light (electricity not run to the shed).
I've never done gears before so invested in a magnetic dial indicator, inch lb dial gauge, home made spanner wrench, and rented bearing/race press cups, bearing race puller and accompanying slide hammer from autozone.
I original was going to run a crush sleeve eliminator but the one that came in my kit was too thin and didn't have enough shims to even contact the bearings on the pinion. I went through 2 crush sleeves before find out a trick to make it easier to crush them.
I assembled the pinion and bearings into the Daytona pinion carrier and push the whole assembly in my press. Then pressed out all the slop until the bearings were seated in the support. Then put the yoke in my vise and used a 3ft breaker bar to tighten the pinion nut until I had resistance turning the pinion support.
I would tighten a little and then check the preload on my dial indicator. New bearings should be between 15-30 inch lbs in at 26.
Then adjusted backlash and verified on multiple sections. Spec is 0.006-0.010" and I'm at 0.008.
Then I ran a pattern with the marking compound and was able to get a good pattern. I started off with a 0.020 shim, went up to 0.045 then 0.027, then 0.035, and ended up at 0.039 asy final pinion shim pack.
I then ran a die over the housing Studs and cleaned up the threads. I still need to pull the 3rd member and put on a lube locker gasket and pinion support o-ring. I just stuck it on the housing so once I press on new axle bearings, axle retainer plates, axle bearing seal, and axle bearing retainers I can put the axles in and get my brake caliper positioning to weld on the caliper brackets.
Also holy crap caliper banjo bolts are ridiculously expensive. Almost $35/ea. Luckily Speedway Motors sells a stainless line kit for my rear calipers that was $49.99 and came with 2 lines 2 banjo bolts and the required tabs.
Once this is under the XJ I'll tackle the d30 front axle gears. I may just pull the front axle and do it in my shed because I need to cut off the old trackbar mount and weld on my new one from Ironman4x4 so I stop getting bumpsteer with my over the knuckle steering.
I've never done gears before so invested in a magnetic dial indicator, inch lb dial gauge, home made spanner wrench, and rented bearing/race press cups, bearing race puller and accompanying slide hammer from autozone.
I original was going to run a crush sleeve eliminator but the one that came in my kit was too thin and didn't have enough shims to even contact the bearings on the pinion. I went through 2 crush sleeves before find out a trick to make it easier to crush them.
I assembled the pinion and bearings into the Daytona pinion carrier and push the whole assembly in my press. Then pressed out all the slop until the bearings were seated in the support. Then put the yoke in my vise and used a 3ft breaker bar to tighten the pinion nut until I had resistance turning the pinion support.
I would tighten a little and then check the preload on my dial indicator. New bearings should be between 15-30 inch lbs in at 26.
Then adjusted backlash and verified on multiple sections. Spec is 0.006-0.010" and I'm at 0.008.
Then I ran a pattern with the marking compound and was able to get a good pattern. I started off with a 0.020 shim, went up to 0.045 then 0.027, then 0.035, and ended up at 0.039 asy final pinion shim pack.
I then ran a die over the housing Studs and cleaned up the threads. I still need to pull the 3rd member and put on a lube locker gasket and pinion support o-ring. I just stuck it on the housing so once I press on new axle bearings, axle retainer plates, axle bearing seal, and axle bearing retainers I can put the axles in and get my brake caliper positioning to weld on the caliper brackets.
Also holy crap caliper banjo bolts are ridiculously expensive. Almost $35/ea. Luckily Speedway Motors sells a stainless line kit for my rear calipers that was $49.99 and came with 2 lines 2 banjo bolts and the required tabs.
Once this is under the XJ I'll tackle the d30 front axle gears. I may just pull the front axle and do it in my shed because I need to cut off the old trackbar mount and weld on my new one from Ironman4x4 so I stop getting bumpsteer with my over the knuckle steering.
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nohitter64
Full Access Member
New shoes....finally. before and after.
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Drove the 03 about 260 miles pulling my 6X10 enclosed trailer to pick up a whole load of Jeep parts.
Even found a 4.10 front diff for sale, the guy said some one else bought the rear since his was bad.......asked and yes he had a 6 cylinder. Guy was trying to tell me all KJs have the same front and rear diffs :happy175:Someone is going to be mad when they install it and throw it in 4 wheel drive !:gr_grin::emotions34:
Came home and threw new pads and rotors on the rear of the 03
Good to go for another trip tomorrow
Look out Columbus Ohio, here we come again !!
Even found a 4.10 front diff for sale, the guy said some one else bought the rear since his was bad.......asked and yes he had a 6 cylinder. Guy was trying to tell me all KJs have the same front and rear diffs :happy175:Someone is going to be mad when they install it and throw it in 4 wheel drive !:gr_grin::emotions34:
Came home and threw new pads and rotors on the rear of the 03
Good to go for another trip tomorrow
Look out Columbus Ohio, here we come again !!
Damotee
Full Access Member
Changed the oil and filter. Wasted about 2 litres as I forgot to put the drain plug in as I was refilling it. Doh.
Aztimer2
Full Access Member
Wash down the engine compartment.
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Ordered the wrong axle retainer plates so I made my own out of 1/4" instead of the 3/16" these came in.
Then cut off the old bearings and seals. Pressed new Timken bearings and seals. Installed the 3rd member with a lube locker gasket. Torqued everything down.
I just need to pick up new axle retaining bolts tomorrow and then I can put it under the XJ and weld on the brake mounts and shock tabs.
Then cut off the old bearings and seals. Pressed new Timken bearings and seals. Installed the 3rd member with a lube locker gasket. Torqued everything down.
I just need to pick up new axle retaining bolts tomorrow and then I can put it under the XJ and weld on the brake mounts and shock tabs.
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Did another run for more parts in Columbus ( Ohio)
Finished picking up rest of my stuff there also so another 260-280 miles
Got a new customer , he wants a lift but not sure which one yet.
Met him 80 miles away, but lives within 12 miles of me !
So lift number ...55 -56-57, heck lost count, at least possibly another
04 with only 71,000 miles but sagged little over an inch , so he is due
Finished picking up rest of my stuff there also so another 260-280 miles
Got a new customer , he wants a lift but not sure which one yet.
Met him 80 miles away, but lives within 12 miles of me !
So lift number ...55 -56-57, heck lost count, at least possibly another
04 with only 71,000 miles but sagged little over an inch , so he is due
Aceofspades
Full Access Member
Where do I sign up for a 4.10 swap?
if only it was this easy on a liberty
The rear wouldn't be much harder now that I have custom upper rear link mounts in the Liberty.
Getting harder to find, have 3 people now waiting for me to find some and do theirs LOL
Stops much better now with disc's in the back.
Was 95° out and welding on the blacktop was so much fun and fun fact sometimes if you touch something you just welded you can hear your skin sizzle before you feel it lol.
I started at 2 and finished at 9. Only had to run to autozone twice (caliper guide pins, brake hard-line fittings). Although I do need to go back and return the fittings I didn't use. Wasn't sure on the thread size so I bought them all. Toss in a pizza break, and having to explain what I'm doing when my neighbors come to chat. The more I do to the Jeeps more and more people keep stopping to see what I'm doing now. I'm almost dead center of my development but my road is one of the main roads through the development so I'm collecting some fans
I may end up switching the caliper pins over to another set they had at autozone that has a cotter pin in the end so if the pin backs out of the caliper mount it cant completely seperate and will prevent you from losing a caliper.
Now it's a 98 Jeep Cherokee with a 79 Ford Bronco read end and 78-88 GM big bore calipers which can be found on the front of an S10 up to 2002 [emoji848]. The calipers I got from Speedway motors because they are affordable, came with pads, and have a larger metal piston at 2.75". These combined with the Dodge Dakota master cylinder upgrade the brakes work fantastic.
Was 95° out and welding on the blacktop was so much fun and fun fact sometimes if you touch something you just welded you can hear your skin sizzle before you feel it lol.
I started at 2 and finished at 9. Only had to run to autozone twice (caliper guide pins, brake hard-line fittings). Although I do need to go back and return the fittings I didn't use. Wasn't sure on the thread size so I bought them all. Toss in a pizza break, and having to explain what I'm doing when my neighbors come to chat. The more I do to the Jeeps more and more people keep stopping to see what I'm doing now. I'm almost dead center of my development but my road is one of the main roads through the development so I'm collecting some fans
I may end up switching the caliper pins over to another set they had at autozone that has a cotter pin in the end so if the pin backs out of the caliper mount it cant completely seperate and will prevent you from losing a caliper.
Now it's a 98 Jeep Cherokee with a 79 Ford Bronco read end and 78-88 GM big bore calipers which can be found on the front of an S10 up to 2002 [emoji848]. The calipers I got from Speedway motors because they are affordable, came with pads, and have a larger metal piston at 2.75". These combined with the Dodge Dakota master cylinder upgrade the brakes work fantastic.
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turblediesel
memberable
Awsome Myke!
TrailRiderRob
New Member
Fixed the "back glass will not latch" problem
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