DIY Front Bumper

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808inthe949

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Spent the last two weekends making a bumper for my liberty. I could only find ARB that sells one and judging from posts on here there's not a lot of options. I opted to try and make one that was a kind of mix between two styles that I like. I know I'll face some criticisms with this one. I'm not a pro welder as I'm sure many will see in pics I can post. I do have some mig, and tig training/experience that was in a shop but in my home garage I only have a 110 outlet ,so am limited to fluxcore. I wasn't sure how to build the way it mounts to the unibody as I'm not a structural expert by any means, but I gave it whack anyhow. I just hope it doesn't tear apart the first time it gets yanked on as I probably won't be the one in danger. Don't want anyone getting hurt getting my simple head out of the muck.
I can post pics now (still have to paint, mount turn signals, and light bar) or I can post pics when it's all done. Unless everyone's tired of people's half thought bumpers ending up on the internet, then I'll just keep it to myself
 

808inthe949

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I do not know what the ARB mounts look like (guess I should have really looked over the dimensions or at least inner photos to see frame work) but I mounted by sandwiching the unibody rail through the center with a 2.5x3 square bar and a 1/4 bottom plate using grade 8 bolts. Started with cardboard ideas.
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Then made the mounting brackets from bumper to new" frame rails" (now sticking out of unibody frame holes) using 3/16 diamond plate. Connected The square tube rails with 1 1/4 round tubing. Added two gussets on outer edges made from 3/16 steel plate for inner support. Outer shell is all made with 3/16 sheet metal. Gonna use 3/8 Amber led clearance lights as turn signals.
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I'm sure the shell is as thick as it needs to be if not a bit thicker. Weighs almost 100lbs with shackles and led bar. Debating doing a bull bar and what shape it would be.
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Finished my shackle mounts earlier and got the bumper ready for paint and lights tomorrow.
Can also take more pictures of inside woods, gussets and better mount photos. Should I tack wild it to the unibody for added rigidity or is it not necessary with the 4 grade 8 bolts I'm using?
Should I put some 1.5-2.5" holes in the lower front edge by radiator?
Will be doing holes in the skid plate in that area. Post photos of that tomorrow too
 

tommudd

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I would not weld it to the body, since anytime you need to remove grill whole bumper would need to come off
I would of done 05-07 like the TJM bumpers were done, straight across with stock turns remaining
Nothing wrong with your design would of been easier to build though
Next, You just have 4 grade 8 bolts holding it on ?
Rock Lizard for example had 3 per side plus ( back in frame rails ) some more off to the side
ARB uses 3 per side plus a bracket that gets bolted clear across the front of the " frame "
Yes put holes across the front , bigger the better
Look at some pictures of the ARB, Rock Lizard, also the Matrix front skid that JBA sold , ( it has 7 large holes for air flow )
What springs are you running in front?
 

808inthe949

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Bilstein 5100/4600
OME 927/948 ( the heavier weighted one up front but not the crd ones might not be right numbers)
I agree that it would have been easier to not cut out the stock signals. I just didn't like how after removing the stock plastics you have to cut the signals away from the bumper and they it looks to be just held on with one 10mm ***** and a little tab on the outer edge. I didn't like the way it looked or how flimsy it seemed.
I also saw two online (just image search) that didn't remove and cover the stock fog lamps but I also didn't like that how looked. I made it harder for myself but I think it will look better personally when it's done.
I'm having a hard time finding those three bumpers in detailed pics with mounts and everything. Any chance you can post some simple pics you have found for reference?
I thought I had read online that you didn't want to bolt all the way through the unibody frame from outer edge to inner edge so my two bolts per side go up through the two holes (I think we're meant for tow hook to be installed easily) and bolt to the inside of my square tubing with some tack welded nuts (little locking tables inside too).
So would it be best to make a U bracket to cradle the unibody frame further back that can bolt straight through my square tubing and out the other side of my bracket and use two grade 8 bolts however many inches I'd need to go straight through?
Or should I weld some studs to the unibody and make a bracket that slides over the studs and bolts down?
 

808inthe949

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Also, do I need to worry about airbag compliance or any legal things since I fabed my own bumper? It'll have signals and I can do a set of running lights also but I don't know if it's necessary.
 

808inthe949

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Think what I'll do with the extra mounting points is similar to the ARB with how it has the tabs coming off the stock reinforcement bar
 

tommudd

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ARB uses a plate with 3 bolts welded to it to run back into the front frame rail.
You have the two holes of course then drill out the 3rd on each side
Then the front plate that runs clear across the front
I lost all of my pictures when my computer killed itself
I have ran an ARB on the 04 for over 10 years before I got stupid one day and sold it
Also have ran the Rock Lizard front as well
 

808inthe949

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Idk what the silver bar that goes across the front of my jeep is that is pinch welded to the unibody. I would call is a front bumper reinforcement bar or something like that.
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The thingy man you know! Lol
I was under it today and am thinking along the same line as you with a bar that goes against that reinforcement thingy across the front with a few added bolts. Seems the easiest way to secure it in addition to running through the unibody tubing . Looking at pics of a Libby with the ARB I can almost see the tabs running to that bar on the inside, so something similar to that.
I'm not exactly sure which springs I bought (guess I could search for the email receipt) but I know I went with the second from the heaviest for the front (I think the heaviest is strictly CRD or a real brick gas hog) and the middle rated one for the rear (have 4600 billsteins in rear, but don't plan to tow much if at all)
I'd love to add a winch when the funds come, but as with most things it shall wait.
 

tommudd

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The ARB has a whole mount that gets bolted on first, to the frame rails and also to the front crossmember
The shackle tabs are part of that peice.
Then the bumper " cover " mounts to that
The 927s are rated at 400 lbs, the 790s are rated at 500.
I ran the 790s with a ARB, lots of heavy skids, rock rails, real aftermarket bumper, etc and it was NOT a " real brick gas hog "
Not if you call 21-22 on the highway at 75 plus MPH ;)
Of course regeared/ over 4 inches of lift/ 32s etc
There are only two springs available for the rear, 947s/948s
I install 948s on all the KJ lifts we install here, not just for towing
 

808inthe949

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Ok crossmember I will use that going forward. I will make a mount to the cross member from my new bumper and use 2-4 grade 8s. So I'll have 4 to the frame rails under neath and 4 or so for crossmember mount.
I went with the 948s in the rear, 927s up front. Just checked my receipt.
I kind of consider most jeeps gas hogs. Wasn't meaning to insult jeeps as I love mine and the others I have had. I consider most jeeps gas hogs, at least compared to less capable suvs. Never owned a diesel anything though.
What state or area are you in Tom? I'm unfortunately right on the coast of SoCal.
 

tommudd

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Southeastern Ohio is where I currently hang my hat
Comparing a KJ to some of the other SUVs is comparing apples to oranges
 

808inthe949

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Nice region!
I will admit I at first was typical when thinking of the KJ. Never saw one with upgrades so always thought they weren't capable. Then I actually grew some brain cells and reversed that thinking.
Just to clarify, you're suggesting making a plate, let's say 3"x24" (just for example) and welding nuts to that plate. Then bolting the plate to the crossmember with g8 bolts. Then bolting the new bumper to that plate, using the welding nuts as mounting points?
I imagine this is so that I can remove the bumper from the mounting plate without having to mess with the crossmember at all?
 

808inthe949

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Almost done with that mount to the crossmember.
When I'm done it is more appreciated for me to make a new complete post with pics and the design process, or should I just finish out this post with a conclusion?
 

GottaCRDKJ

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Spent the last two weekends making a bumper for my liberty. I could only find ARB that sells one and judging from posts on here there's not a lot of options. I opted to try and make one that was a kind of mix between two styles that I like. I know I'll face some criticisms with this one. I'm not a pro welder as I'm sure many will see in pics I can post. I do have some mig, and tig training/experience that was in a shop but in my home garage I only have a 110 outlet ,so am limited to fluxcore. I wasn't sure how to build the way it mounts to the unibody as I'm not a structural expert by any means, but I gave it whack anyhow. I just hope it doesn't tear apart the first time it gets yanked on as I probably won't be the one in danger. Don't want anyone getting hurt getting my simple head out of the muck.
I can post pics now (still have to paint, mount turn signals, and light bar) or I can post pics when it's all done. Unless everyone's tired of people's half thought bumpers ending up on the internet, then I'll just keep it to myself
Lets see your work I'm curious how it turned out.
 

GottaCRDKJ

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Have you looked into JCRs builder kits, they may have something to adapt for your build.

Just did one for my xj, thinking of trying to mod it for the kj
 

808inthe949

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Ya know adapting a premade kit would have probably been ridiculously easier. Gotta love that I have more energy than wisdom!
I'm 26 with no certifications or old heads to teach me so I'm learning as I go. Changed the way I planned to mount it twice and with toms help I think I got it. Probably a couple days to paint it and wire my lights. I'll include pictures of the process, mounting points, and how I wire the new lights up.
 

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