Engine locked up...need help!

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jasonw

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I got it all out today...one of the top trans bolts I got from the top of the engine...with the trans dip stick and the wiring harness in the way, the only way I could see to reach it was to remove the intake manifold and get it from there.


The only damage I had was the fuel rail..as I pried it up..it started leaking. The salvage engine should have it installed already.
 

kb0nly

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I got it all out today...one of the top trans bolts I got from the top of the engine...with the trans dip stick and the wiring harness in the way, the only way I could see to reach it was to remove the intake manifold and get it from there.


The only damage I had was the fuel rail..as I pried it up..it started leaking. The salvage engine should have it installed already.

Cool... Taking any pics along the way?? Sounds like you have this project well in hand.
 

jasonw

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more pics

This is my first attempt at replacing an engine in a vehicle. I have done head gaskets, a/c work, fuel injectors, intakes, etc....but I have never removed a transmission or engine before.
 

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jasonw

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taking the old engine out is the easy part.......installing the new one will be a lot harder getting all the bolts to align.

The only thing I am hating is how they attached the wiring harness all over the engine with plastic connectors that break very easily and cannot be re-used if they don't break. I will get a bag of zip ties for reassembly. And many of the electrical connectors are brittle and snap as you gently unplug them. The black plastic that covers the wires on the valve covers is so brittle that if you touch it it will crumble and break.


I know I will struggle to wrestle the transmission back up to the engine and cuss a lot getting the bolts back into the bell housing.

I will keep updating the post as it comes along. The new motor should arrive Monday or Tuesday.
 

jasonw

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got a rebuilt engine and got it all installed and started today.

Jeep runs good except for a code p0132 (o2 sensor)...that is on the driver side...same side of the engine that had the 4 rockets flopping around loose in the valve cover....should be an easy fix.


I will check it tomorrow to make sure there are no fluid leaks and loose wires to tie up.

All in all it took about 13 hours of labor and a couple back aches since I don't have a lift.
 

kb0nly

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Yeah i was going to say the code could clear... But with the battery disconnected the whole time i'm guessing the code was set right after firing up, might just be a bad sensor, or even a bad connection at the plug??

Either way.. Dude!!! You got it all done and thats the only glitch?? Thats awesome.

(kneel)

I've helped swap motors before, but nothing as complicated as these newer vehicles, i have only done old school V8 carb powered swaps... LOL

Sounds like the biggest pain is the large amount of wiring.
 

kb0nly

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Oh... Where did you buy the rebuilt motor from and what was the cost?? I know that question comes up on here now and then.
 

Warren.fischbeck

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Sounds like you've really done your homework before going in, congrats. Were you able to keep the old computer or did you take the one from the donner. I think that is the biggest hurdle with the newer motors...
 

jasonw

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no need to change the computer.....and actually working on a newer engine is in many ways easier than the old school carbs and timing....on these engines there are a lot of electrical connectors but no adjustments to timing, fuel, etc. Adjusting the distributor and setting the timing on an older engine is not always easy.

I ordered the engine from an auto salvage company in Dallas, TX. I originally ordered a used 62,000 mile engine but they either didn't actually have it or they said they mis-shipped it and sent me a rebuilt engine.

The used engine was going to cost $1400, the rebuilt was $2500 but they only charged me for the used one.


I will see how it does.....a rebuilt engine is only has good as the person who did the work.



The one thing I have learned that could get you into a real headache is that the liberty engines are not all the same. 2002-2003 engines are not the same as the 2004+ engines. The reluctor wheel on the crankshaft is different and if you use the wrong motor it will not start because the computer uses a crankshaft position sensor to set the timing. I was really worried for a while that the salvage yard sent me a newer motor...but it was the right one.
 

sleeve

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Honestly man, you did a bang up job and even helped clear out some of the myth to the 2002 & 2003+ motor compatibility discussion.

I hope your KJ brings you plenty of troublefree miles from now on.
 

Warren.fischbeck

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You did a bang up job. Did you happen to take pics along the way? I'm curious about how much work it is to pull the Liberty's engine.
 

kb0nly

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Awesome so you got a rebuilt motor for $1400? Wow...

And $900 for the KJ..

$2300 so far, well i suppose tax/title/license cost a bit too. But now you have a vehicle you can turn around and sell for twice that much if you wanted. I see 2wd KJ's listed for sale around here in the $4-5k range and none of them can say they have a rebuilt motor.
 

ThunderbirdJunkie

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Awesome so you got a rebuilt motor for $1400? Wow...

And $900 for the KJ..

$2300 so far, well i suppose tax/title/license cost a bit too. But now you have a vehicle you can turn around and sell for twice that much if you wanted. I see 2wd KJ's listed for sale around here in the $4-5k range and none of them can say they have a rebuilt motor.

AND JUST THINK!
HE COULD'VE HAD THUNDERBIRDJUNKIE'S 1994 TOYOTA PASEO!
If you don't mind me asking where did you find that deal for it $900??

From somebody like budke
 
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