What did you do to your jeep today?

[duderz7]

jeep may or may not have a failing passenger cat. trying some seafoam to see if that can't help clear up the problem.

No personal experience, but I think there's a product called catacleen, or something like that, supposed to actually work. I'm not usually one for the snake oil remedies, but might be worth a try.

 

[burntkat]

Tomorrow is the day.... Finally. Going to get a good start early in the morning and R&R everything under the hood associated with the AC system. I should have functional AC in a vehicle for the first time in roughly 30 years (other than roughly 2 weeks when. I first got the Liberty).

 

[seafish]

Tomorrow is the day.... Finally. Going to get a good start early in the morning and R&R everything under the hood associated with the AC system. I should have functional AC in a vehicle for the first time in roughly 30 years (other than roughly 2 weeks when. I first got the Liberty).

Would be great to eventually get a step by step description of what you did, as well as a parts list.

 

[burntkat]

I believe they have already been posted in this thread. If not, definitely another.

EDIT 25JUL26 - I'm presently watching the kid do my AC system R&R. Here's the BOM for a 2005 Renegade AC system....
Post in thread '2007 AC needs replaced' https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/2007-ac-needs-replaced.82954/post-824230

And Post in thread '2007 AC needs replaced' https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/2007-ac-needs-replaced.82954/post-824228

 

[CherokeeLiberty]

I got my ‘new’ work truck this week. 2012 Silverado dually. We’ll go get my jeep from the shop after church on Sunday.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[burntkat]

Kinda sorta half-assing a livestream today...

First, get a cool beverage. Preferably caffeinated.

 

[burntkat]

.... And remove the front grille trim panel, and radiator header panel...

Lay the header panel to the side. No need to disconnect the hood cables, unless you're really babying your Jeep. Up to you...

 

[burntkat]

Assuming you have no pressure in the system (You MUST check first. It's a felony to let this stuff out into the atmo, and more importantly, not healthy to breathe. So having no pressure in the system, one way or another... Here's the first place to disconnect. Inboard of the PAX headlight there is a junction block. 13mm socket.

 

[burntkat]

Follow it along the PAX fender to behind the coolant recovery tank. You will want to remove it and tie it out of the way.... Also, the airbox top. There's another junction block to the evaporator core (in the cabin and requires removal of the dash...beyond the scope of today's work).. Another 13mm socket for the nuts...

 

[burntkat]

And then if you have my luck... This is where you discover your 'little leak' is in each corner of the @##&##@$ radiator you just put in 2 years ago..... So dispatch the kid to pickup a radiator....

 

[burntkat]

... And wait on the kid to get back. After all, he's getting paid well for this, and it won't be looked at kindly if I'm wrenching in this garage without him here.... Insurance and all....

 

[burntkat]

Kid got back with the new rad. Luckily it's a warranty job, so I will get my money back when I return this one. Just did the job 3 years ago. Enshitification continues in the modern market....

Open the new radiator...

(Hey, you're not supposed to pry with hardened steel!)

S.T.F.U, CARL!

 

[burntkat]

So this actually might make the job easier. R&R the condensor and radiator as an assembly. We shall see.

Yes, I am bored as I watch him work. How can you tell?

 

[burntkat]

Nope, it's 2 bolts holding the condensor to the radiator. 10mm. It's a fool's errand trying to remove as an assembly.

 

[burntkat]

While the rad and condensor are out, got a good view of the cooling fans. I'd swapped the stock engine fan for a flex fan a while back owing to shit replacement fan couplings..

So what I have now is a severe duty cooling system. The engine fan moves as fast as the engine at all times. And yes it's noisy, because the electric fan and the engine fan blades have opposing pitch. Ie, as viewed from the front of the vehicle, the electric in the fan shroud is moving CW. The engine fan is moving CCW. This makes turbid airflow, and that equals noise.... And I just don't care. It's a Jeep. If anything, tubidity in the airflow probably is enhancing the cooling effect... After spending years in the Army driving HMMWVs, I kinda like the noise. It means my engine is properly cooling.

 

[burntkat]

Protip- to get the rad separate from the condensor and out the vehicle, don't forget the 2 10mm bolts holding the oil cooler (probably PS cooler, but hey that's still oil) that hold the oil cooler in place. And it helps to remove the top bolts that hold the plastic subframe for the headlights and grill on, and gently pry out. Don't forget the rubber flaps that are on each side of the rad. They like to hang up on the other stuff and complicate removal.
But by all means reassemble the condensor and radiator as an assembly outside the vehicle. Don't forget the rubber flaps. They are VERY important to make sure you get proper airflow through the rad....

New rad and condensor are in now. Side quest of replacing the radiator is nearly done, back to the main job...

 

[burntkat]

Remove the compressor. 2 15mm on the front into the timing cover and a 13mm going down into the cylinder head. Brings one of the lines with it....

 

[burntkat]

Last on our list is the accumulator aka receiver-dryer. Haven't got it out yet but looks like a 13mm for the line, and pinch bolt looks like an 8mm. See the green dot in the Pic.... The bolt is hard to see but it's right there where my laser pointer is making the dot...

 

[burntkat]

Once the Accumulator is out, it is time to blow out the evaporator core unless you are replacing it. None of the new stuff should need this. Absolutely DO NOT blow out the compressor or accumulator new components (or old if you are not replacing it).
This is a VERY messy operation. Think "automotive *******" session.... Wear your PPE.

.... And when done with the flush bottle, TURN IT OFF BEFORE REMOVING THE AIR HOSE... or you will wear it. Yes, sometimes I am a *******....

After you have flushed the evaporator both ways (backflush first, then forward flush), blow it out with shop air. LOTS of shop air. Don't stand in the cloud and breathe that crap, obviously.

Did I mention this is a messy evolution?

 

[burntkat]

So now we are at the 'installation is the reverse of removal' part of the -10 manual... (IYKYK).

You will need to transfer over the sensor on the line at the compressor, and the sensor on the accumulator. Don't expose them to cleanser. I can't imagine it would do them any favors. You also need to save the accumulator to evaporator hardline. See the items I am touching with my pen in the pics....
Blow out any parts you are reusing *except for accumulator, compressor, and sensors*. That short piece of hardline between the accumulator and evaporator should be blown out as well. Using the cleanser is a good idea. As before, flush generously with shop air. Probably want to let the cleanser offgas too. Take a break and let it dry as much as it's going to. You won't want it to contaminate the new stuff.

This is a good time to read up on the literature that came with the compressor... How much PAG oil is needed, how to fill, etc...