What did you do to your jeep today?

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PNWJeeper

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The end of the cable should connect to a sort of hinge that then pulls the brake hardware. Check to see if the hinge has rusted and seized up. Mine did that and I haven't gotten around to disassembling it yet
I've got the console tore apart right now and the parking handle assembly removed, waiting for a replacement.

It turned out to be a broken spring-end underneath the assembly, If you look under the assembly, the clutch spring is held in place at one end at the handle, the other end of this spring is supposed to be held by a small metal tab that sticks up from the bottom of the base-plate. Pull too hard/too fast on the handle and this spring-end can 'pop' up over the tab...now you got no clutch spring and no way to develop tension. Its not hard to maneuver the spring-end back into place and fix it.

With mine, the end of the spring-end at the small tab had actually broken off and would 'pop' up over the tab each time I reset it so I ordered a whole new parking brake lever assembly...be here Sunday.
 

burntkat

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New brake pads all around. I also finally got to the parking brake that has never worked. I installed new pads and rebuild kits on both rear drums but still no parking brake. I'm guessing the cable is stretched or something, no adjustment at the handle, only at the drums and I've got those set.

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It's a shit design. There's a ******* CLUTCH in the lever. Absolutely idiocy.

I will have a fix soon. But it won't be stock.
 

burntkat

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I've got the console tore apart right now and the parking handle assembly removed, waiting for a replacement.

It turned out to be a broken spring-end underneath the assembly, If you look under the assembly, the clutch spring is held in place at one end at the handle, the other end of this spring is supposed to be held by a small metal tab that sticks up from the bottom of the base-plate. Pull too hard/too fast on the handle and this spring-end can 'pop' up over the tab...now you got no clutch spring and no way to develop tension. Its not hard to maneuver the spring-end back into place and fix it.

With mine, the end of the spring-end at the small tab had actually broken off and would 'pop' up over the tab each time I reset it so I ordered a whole new parking brake lever assembly...be here Sunday.
Hate to say, but that is unlikely to fix it. It was basically broken on the drawing board. There's no good reason for a clutch in the system.
 
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burntkat

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Helping my son install a locker in his 97 XJ. AUSSIE locker for the win. It's been working well in the 8.25 in the Libby, it will work well in his 8.25.

Then we will install the spacers on my Liberty....
 

burntkat

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Found out that Amazon sent me the wrong diff cover... In December. I should have been after my son to install this thing more than I was. Now there's a $160 diff cover I can't use. Called the maker, maybe they will help me out...

He was putting the factory diff cover back on. Using an impact.. (seriously, WTFO?) Snapped a bolt, unsurprisingly. Educated him on the proper use of an impact versus a nut-runner (ie, cordless drill with a clutch, and a socket adapter, or a low-torque electric or pneumatic tool that doesn't give a lot of torque). Taught him the Dremel trick.. Worked a treat. I had about 4 other tricks in my back pocket. He's refilling it now....
 

uss2defiant

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Recently had misfire on cylinder 2. replaced coil.
A few weeks later, did not want to idle. Possibly due to slightly overfilled with oil after refilling with oil between oil change interval.
Was able to limp it home from work but keeping RPMs up on neutral at stop.

Did an oil change, replace plugs. Found another bad coil.
Cleaned the TB, IAC, and new air filter.

Hope to keep running her a bit while longer.
 

burntkat

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I wanna learn the "Dremel trick" ! ;)
Get a Dremel and a wide fiber cutoff wheel. Cut a slot across the broken fastener. Use a flat blade screwdriver to remove it.

Obviously, doesn't have to be a Dremel. A die grinder works too.

Doesn't work for rusted-in fasteners. For those, you weld a nut onto the broken part, immediately after welding you shoot it with penetrant, and put a wrench on the nut and start rocking it out. That's always worked. Sometimes it isn't possible (mainly due to access issues. I've had to remove a head to remove manifold bolts that snapped off). Once I have it on the bench or can get to the fastener without burning the vehicle down, it's GOING to come out.

Another method that works well is heating the fastener with a torch (assuming it isn't vertical, and there is enough fastener showing to heat directly) til it is really hot, and then taking a thin taper candle and rubbing around the base of the fastener. The wax gets wicked into the threads and starts acting as lube.
 
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seafish

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Get a Dremel and a wide fiber cutoff wheel. Cut a slot across the broken fastener. Use a flat blade screwdriver to remove it.

I like it.

Doesn't work for rusted-in fasteners.

Like you, I have successfully used torches and paraffin wax for those

That said, I still want to get me one of these …

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seafish

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Of course there are cheaper ones available, but I like the idea of the remote power supply using a built in cooling fan…seems to me it will simply last ALOT longer then this one with the PS built into the handle.

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KenKJ06

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Got the right side upper and lower arms and ball joints, springs, shocks and hubs. Did the left side last weekend. Lots more effort involved than I had expected. Must be the Texas heat. Sitting at 21". Did the BDS 2" kit although cut half a coil after reading some got more than 2".
 

burntkat

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Got the right side upper and lower arms and ball joints, springs, shocks and hubs. Did the left side last weekend. Lots more effort involved than I had expected. Must be the Texas heat. Sitting at 21". Did the BDS 2" kit although cut half a coil after reading some got more than 2".
Cutting the coil is likely a mistake. You've increased the rate of the spring (because physics) and can expect a harsher ride as well as it being unlikely you will see the desired reduction in ride height.

Fingers crossed for you
 

burntkat

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Sadly you are correct. The new lever assembly is in but still no park brakey stop stop...
Sorry to have been correct.

I am working on an electric parking brake. Best approach for the moment is a TC mounted unit, pulled off of a Tesla. I'm trying to find electric parking brakes off of other cars which don't have a hydraulic circuit involved. If anyone has potential donors, I'm all ears.

This will involve some fabrication.
 

burntkat

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Of course there are cheaper ones available, but I like the idea of the remote power supply using a built in cooling fan…seems to me it will simply last ALOT longer then this one with the PS built into the handle.

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The kid and I have been looking at these. I've always used a torch. Induction has its obvious bonuses. It goes without saying, fasteners MUST be replaced afterwards, even if they 'look fine'... Because they have been annealed and are no longer rated.
 

burntkat

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