it's not OE, and it's got a crack in its case.
What did you do to your jeep today?
- Thread starter TheQ
- Start date
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Brendon Holt
Full Access Member
I learned today while reading some old threads that your PS fluid should be moving around when you open the reservoir cap with the Jeep running at idle. Mine is like a placid, red pond. No movement in the fluid. Was trying to diagnose the power steering whine, and I think I found at least part of the problem. Will probably end up doing the pump and the high pressure line and go from there. I don't want to do the rack 
Because it's MUCH easier.
Replaced the MC. Brakes seem to be better. It's just going to take time to be sure the semi-random seizing doesn't return.
Found this while we were at it...
Look closer...
So that is the JBA (IIRC?) arm rubbing rhe tire. Options are to kiss it with a flap disk next time I have it in the air, or to install spacers. New wheels with more offset would work too, but that's just ridiculous.
Not sure if I'll dress it with a grinder or install spacers. If I go spacers, they will be bullet, as cast is for moron (literally, for engineering reasons).
Found this while we were at it...
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Look closer...
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So that is the JBA (IIRC?) arm rubbing rhe tire. Options are to kiss it with a flap disk next time I have it in the air, or to install spacers. New wheels with more offset would work too, but that's just ridiculous.
Not sure if I'll dress it with a grinder or install spacers. If I go spacers, they will be bullet, as cast is for moron (literally, for engineering reasons).
Wow that rubbing! I would NOT take a grinder to your JBA arms, as it would weaken them perhaps fatally and you would lose your lifetime warranty. Probably wheel spacers or wheels with more offset are a better option. What do you need, a quarter or half an inch of room?
What tire size is that? My 245/75R16 tires clear the arms but I don’t think 265/75R16 would clear on the stock wheels without spacers.
What tire size is that? My 245/75R16 tires clear the arms but I don’t think 265/75R16 would clear on the stock wheels without spacers.
CheddarGau
Full Access Member
I didn't drive my Liberty today because my AC compressor clutch packed it in 2 weeks ago. Been too busy at work to discharge my AC and swap out the compressor. Good news is, I picked up a New Densor compressor for 100CAD. For out American cousins, subtract roughly 33% for the price get your price
CherokeeLiberty
Full Access Member
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duderz7
Full Access Member
Took that long to get an engine light? Impressive!
Well it wasn't anything I did on Giddyup, but for Fathers Day, I made myself a Makita 18v battery adapter for my HK Onyx 5 "jobsite" speaker.
Ive had the Onyx 5 for several years at least and while it always sounded pretty dam good for a portable speaker, it would only run for about 4 hours on its tiny internal 3.7v rechargeable battery.
Sadly, it would ALSO automatically reduce volume output by about half when not plugged into the wall … once again in order to save its tiny battery life.
So when I recently looked at the AC/DC adapter, and I saw that it outputted a steady 19 DVC when plugged in…well being a Makita fanboy, a :lightbulb: when off in my head.
I bought a $12 battery adapter from amazon that came prewired with 12 awg copper pigtails, an on/off switch as well as a 15a inline fuse. After checking the output polarity of the wall wart, I simply pushed and twisted the wires into and onto the end of the extra proper size plug that I had lying in the always useful drawer o' defunct electrical cords and devices.
Since there was no sense in trying to solder copper wires onto the chrome surfaces of the plug, after getting a tight physical connection and ensuring checking continuity, I simply added quick dry epoxy and some electrical tape which fused EVERYTHING together to make the new plug "jobsite tough"
Literally 15 minutes later and I had this done … its been playing LOUD all day (it is Fathers Day after all) and the Makita battery is STILL showing all 4 LED status lights.
always
Ive had the Onyx 5 for several years at least and while it always sounded pretty dam good for a portable speaker, it would only run for about 4 hours on its tiny internal 3.7v rechargeable battery.
Sadly, it would ALSO automatically reduce volume output by about half when not plugged into the wall … once again in order to save its tiny battery life.
So when I recently looked at the AC/DC adapter, and I saw that it outputted a steady 19 DVC when plugged in…well being a Makita fanboy, a :lightbulb: when off in my head.
I bought a $12 battery adapter from amazon that came prewired with 12 awg copper pigtails, an on/off switch as well as a 15a inline fuse. After checking the output polarity of the wall wart, I simply pushed and twisted the wires into and onto the end of the extra proper size plug that I had lying in the always useful drawer o' defunct electrical cords and devices.
Since there was no sense in trying to solder copper wires onto the chrome surfaces of the plug, after getting a tight physical connection and ensuring checking continuity, I simply added quick dry epoxy and some electrical tape which fused EVERYTHING together to make the new plug "jobsite tough"
Literally 15 minutes later and I had this done … its been playing LOUD all day (it is Fathers Day after all
) and the Makita battery is STILL showing all 4 LED status lights.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
always
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