What did you do to your jeep today?

[burntkat]

More info on the brake issue...
Brakes seem just fine after a short break (vehicle off, etc).
Drive for about 15+ minutes, and the pedal starts feeling more solid (it should be noted, pedal feels just fine ordinarily, and booster was replaced a month ago).

Then the brakes start obviously impeding forward progress. Ie, they are dragging.

Gets worse with continued driving. But if I stop (like at the drugstore to pick up medicine yesterday), and get back in the vehicle, all is just fine again.

During that drugstore stop yesterday, brakes were smelling hot. I used an IR temp gun to check the temperatures of the rotors... Approx 350-400 at each wheel. So this is not simply a bad caliper or a bad line. Chances of multiple of any of those going bad and faking a 'systemic' failure, are astronomical... So it pretty much has to go back to the MC (and maybe even that brand-new Booster, but I'm at a loss as to how that would give these symptoms).

EVERYTHING in the brake system except for the hard lines and MC has been replaced in the last year or so. So, pads (service and emergency brake), soft lines, booster, calipers F&R, hardware, everything, is about 6 months old.

System was properly bled 2 weeks ago, by an actual Jeep mechanic (my son), at the dealership.

 

[KenKJ06]

Installed tow hooks on the front. Found them online for $20 with hardware!
Cut out the openings after taking pics.

 

[derekj]

Liberty hiding in the wild

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[Brendon Holt]

I did say it was on the to-do list today

 

[sota]

OH yes, I'm very familiar with the need to bench bleed and so on. I've had this MC out twice in process of replacing the clutch hydraulics

why would you pull the MC to do the clutch master or slave? I did that job (twice!, sort of) without having to pull the MC.

 

[sota]

*sigh* went to get food with the kid.
pulled the jeep out and why the **** is it whining loudly? get to Arby's (not even 3 miles away) and it pops the battery light. turned on my power port and yep... ~12.3V.
I can do the BBB 136A for $53, BBB 160A for $78, or "free" if I take the one in the parts jeep
Probably will snag the parts jeep one for now.

 

[PNWJeeper]

Jeepy made a new friend! This is Way Cool Jr. my new lake boat, 8 feet of aquatic awesomeness!

Way Cool Jr is sporting a 30lb Thrust electric motor paired with a 50ah lithium battery, dual pole holders and a Garmin Striker 4cv fish finder.

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[Brendon Holt]

Jeepy made a new friend! This is Way Cool Jr. my new lake boat, 8 feet of aquatic awesomeness!

Way Cool Jr is sporting a 30lb Thrust electric motor paired with a 50ah lithium battery, dual pole holders and a Garmin Striker 4cv fish finder.

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Oh yeah, that looks like a lot of beautiful quiet mornings on the lake

 

[sota]

ah... blessed harbor freight trailer.

 

[seafish]

I can do the BBB 136A for $53, BBB 160A for $78, or "free" if I take the one in the parts jeep
Probably will snag the parts jeep one for now.

NOT sure what brand BBB is, but if the failed alternator is OEM, then I like the idea of replacing it with the one from the parts Jeep and then having the failed one rebuilt by a reputable auto/electric starter/alternator repair shop if you still have one on your area.

Or even rebuild it yourself with quality parts.

IOW… cheap rebuilds from fast parts stores use poor quality parts and are bound to fail sooner then a properly rebuilt OEM unit.

Just my .02

 

[Brendon Holt]

Okay, I'll stop spamming the lil red KJ after this. But, I washed it

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[sota]

got that thing in an LLC?

 

[sota]

I just discovered that the alternators for an 06 and an 07 are different. 06 has the control pins side to side. 07 has the control pins up and down.

 

[LucasD]

My Pick n Pull haul today. Front skid plate, transfer case skid plate, gas tank skid plate, light bar, light bar switch, 2 tow hooks, and a jack kit. Fabricating a transmission skid plate and installing all this is my summer project. I plan to sell the light bar factory switch and 2 tow hooks without the mounting hardware as I already have a set of hooks I am using this hardware for. Does anyone have any idea what riv nuts to install for the skid plates? I see it is a hexagonal hole and the riv nuts I have used before are circular. Does anyone have a size for them? I've been slowly adding (fixing broken) things to my jeep to make it more capable off road and a lift is my next goal after these. Any advice for mounting/wiring the light bar as well as what kind of led bulbs work well in it?

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[lfhoward]

My Pick n Pull haul today. Front skid plate, transfer case skid plate, gas tank skid plate, light bar, light bar switch, 2 tow hooks, and a jack kit. Fabricating a transmission skid plate and installing all this is my summer project. I plan to sell the light bar factory switch and 2 tow hooks without the mounting hardware as I already have a set of hooks I am using this hardware for. Does anyone have any idea what riv nuts to install for the skid plates? I see it is a hexagonal hole and the riv nuts I have used before are circular. Does anyone have a size for them? I've been slowly adding (fixing broken) things to my jeep to make it more capable off road and a lift is my next goal after these. Any advice for mounting/wiring the light bar as well as what kind of led bulbs work well in it?

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That’s a prosperous junkyard run! Love it!

 

[LucasD]

That’s a prosperous junkyard run! Love it!

The person ringing me up didnt have "skid plate" in their system so he asked me if $45 sounds fair for 3 and i said yes thingking he meant 45 each, which is a great price and i was willing to pay that but he meant 45 total. So i got 3/4 of the liberty skid plates for $45. The light bar was $75 as a 4 fog light assembly. the tow hooks were "brackets" and $13. the switch was $18 which is a killer deal seeing as some are on ebay for 80-150. If i wasnt on a time restriction I would have pulled the axle from it with the limited slip and put it in mine at some point. I might go back and get it if i get the money for it and its still there.

 

[profdlp]

I just discovered that the alternators for an 06 and an 07 are different. 06 has the control pins side to side. 07 has the control pins up and down.

I did not know that. My 07 does have a lot of stuff different on it, most of it due to them already starting to use some KK parts by that point.

 

[lfhoward]

OME 2927 springs and Bilstein 5100 shocks on my 08 KK. Took these today.

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The spring seat on the 5100 shock is set to the lowest position.

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I have a 1/4 inch top plate from athfab.com.

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New CV boot. The CV angle is fine, and this picture was taken with the weight of the Jeep on the struts (you can see my orange bottle jack).

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Back on the street! The stance came out great.

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Bilstein says that the height you set the 5100’s to would be like having a spacer lift. So if you went up 1/2 inch, you’d get an inch of lift at the wheel. I went back and reread lots of threads about the 5100’s when they came out and the consensus from the people who I trust most who had been around the longest (especially Tommudd) was to use the bottom setting with new OME lift springs. I suppose you could increase the height with sagged out stock springs but the ride would suffer. But it could be a stopgap if someone needed to order the shocks now and springs at a later time due to financial considerations.

I went out with a measuring tape and checked the lift height. (This is measured from the middle of the center cap to the bottom of the fender, so tire size is taken out of the equation.) A stock KK when it left the factory would have 18” in the front and 19” in the rear (and no stock one would have that now due to sagging springs). I am at 21-21.5” in front depending on where you measure at the fender. So 3-3.5” of lift. 1/2” comes from ATH’s top plates, 2.5” from the OME springs, and the rest from the 5100’s. I expect the brand new springs to settle a bit in the next few weeks so I may end up at around 3 inches of lift, which is fine with me.

 

[Luke]

Lookin’ Good! I love my Bilsteins.