What did you do to your jeep today?
- Thread starter TheQ
- Start date
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Gyro
Full Access Member
Under my Jeep today replacing the swaybar links and found out the passenger side front spring(2927) is broken and spring perch on the shock is giving way from rust.
Ordered replacements at Tdot Performance in Toronto OME2927 springs & KYB shocks.
$800cdn.
Gyro
Ordered replacements at Tdot Performance in Toronto OME2927 springs & KYB shocks.
$800cdn.
Gyro
I am getting my OME2927’s compressed and struts assembled so that I can rebuild my front suspension. They should be ready for pickup from my shop on Monday.
While I have everything apart (cue scary music for mission creep…), I am thinking of removing the front diff and installing a torsen limited slip that I’ve had on the shelf for a while, as well as replacing the steering rack bushings with Creative Steel ones, plus new inner and outer tie rods.
In terms of installing that limited slip (basically a TrueTrac but by another company), can I swap over the ring gear without having to worry about pinion depth, etc.? I assume I will need new bearings for either side and maybe a shim set to match what is on the original carrier. Anything else I would need for that? Red loctite for the ring gear bolts, as well. I don’t have the funds to regear at the moment, but I do have the LSD hanging around. I’ve also got a TORQ locker for the rear end I can slap in.
While I have everything apart (cue scary music for mission creep…), I am thinking of removing the front diff and installing a torsen limited slip that I’ve had on the shelf for a while, as well as replacing the steering rack bushings with Creative Steel ones, plus new inner and outer tie rods.
In terms of installing that limited slip (basically a TrueTrac but by another company), can I swap over the ring gear without having to worry about pinion depth, etc.? I assume I will need new bearings for either side and maybe a shim set to match what is on the original carrier. Anything else I would need for that? Red loctite for the ring gear bolts, as well. I don’t have the funds to regear at the moment, but I do have the LSD hanging around. I’ve also got a TORQ locker for the rear end I can slap in.
what are you expecting the charge on the spring compress to be ? I wasn't sure what was a good price for that.
Irish429
New Member
Just helped another Liberty owner with the stuck key situation in the ignition. Showed him how to remove the cable from the ignition assembly in the steering column. Simple five minute trick and now he will never have a stuck key again! I can't believe what so many owners go through to remedy this problem.
Just open the trim fairing from thee lower part of the steering wheel and pop out the steel cable! ZERO cost!!! Enjoy the rest of your day!
Just open the trim fairing from thee lower part of the steering wheel and pop out the steel cable! ZERO cost!!! Enjoy the rest of your day!
The friggin' clutch pedal popped off of that ******** plastic ball joint cage, again.
Fortunately, right around the corner from my son's shop. I was headed there anyway to replace the brake booster (and while I'm there, fit up my retrofitted (ie serviceable, separate MC/SC/hydraulic line) anyway. But that plastic cage to hold the clutch MC pushrod to the clutch pedal is a complete shit show. It should have been a stud and nut affair like most vehicles I've worked on. This is the third time it has failed.
The only thing I can come up with to assist it to stay in place is a couple of HD zip ties around the junction. Yes it's redneck as shit, but they also work well in such a situation.
Anyone else got input on this?
Fortunately, right around the corner from my son's shop. I was headed there anyway to replace the brake booster (and while I'm there, fit up my retrofitted (ie serviceable, separate MC/SC/hydraulic line) anyway. But that plastic cage to hold the clutch MC pushrod to the clutch pedal is a complete shit show. It should have been a stud and nut affair like most vehicles I've worked on. This is the third time it has failed.
The only thing I can come up with to assist it to stay in place is a couple of HD zip ties around the junction. Yes it's redneck as shit, but they also work well in such a situation.
Anyone else got input on this?
I'm not familiar with this, and I'll soon be in the column to install a transponder bypass. What is this issue, what is the cable supposed to be there for, and what does removing it do?
If you are putting anything back in there other than the very same carrier/bearings/shims/ring gear or any combination of the above, yes, you need to plan on doing a R&P setup. You MAY get lucky and not need to, but you should be pulling patterns, comparing to desired results (pressure zone on middle of the tooth) preload on the pinion, and such. If by some chance all that turns out O without fussing over it, immediately go to your nearest lottery and sink your savings into it, because surely the stars are shining on you this day....
That being said, everything I've seen says that installing traction devices in the D30A are a crap shoot.. It isn't strong enough, and cracked cases often result. Understand, this is 3rd hand info at best, I've been thinking about doing the same thing and have done some research. People on Teh Interwebz also say Liberties aren't real Jeeps and can't wheel, so there's that... -shrug-
I'm looking into the possibility of cutting down a regular (read: steel) D30 to retrofit it in place of the aluminum unit, but I suspect it will quickly get into needing a machine shop to make the proper outputs on the tubes, and thus make more sense for me to do a SFA
Definitely zip ties for the quick, neat, easy and durable “redneck win” !!!
You can feel good about them cuz at least you’re NOT using Duct tape
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Thank you, @burntkat. I am waffling between 1) just putting my suspension back together, 2) putting in the limited slip but keeping the same 3.73 ring and pinion, and 3) finding a used front diff and kitting it out with the limited slip, 4.10 or 4.56 gears (KK), and redoing all the bearings and seals in the process. Option #3 is the most expensive, but I could keep driving and take my time with the replacement diff. Then, once I am ready to tackle the rear diff to match, I can just swap the front over.If you are putting anything back in there other than the very same carrier/bearings/shims/ring gear or any combination of the above, yes, you need to plan on doing a R&P setup. You MAY get lucky and not need to, but you should be pulling patterns, comparing to desired results (pressure zone on middle of the tooth) preload on the pinion, and such. If by some chance all that turns out O without fussing over it, immediately go to your nearest lottery and sink your savings into it, because surely the stars are shining on you this day....
That being said, everything I've seen says that installing traction devices in the D30A are a crap shoot.. It isn't strong enough, and cracked cases often result. Understand, this is 3rd hand info at best, I've been thinking about doing the same thing and have done some research. People on Teh Interwebz also say Liberties aren't real Jeeps and can't wheel, so there's that... -shrug-
I'm looking into the possibility of cutting down a regular (read: steel) D30 to retrofit it in place of the aluminum unit, but I suspect it will quickly get into needing a machine shop to make the proper outputs on the tubes, and thus make more sense for me to do a SFA
Either way, I do need my Jeep back on the road ASAP so am considering #1 and #3. These are not mutually exclusive.
