Big Al
Let's get Cracken
We have a stealing catalytic converter guy in our area.Any issues with thieves busting into cars to grab electronics like dash cams?
Hoping mine don't go missing.
My home security cams are pointing at my vehicles lately.
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We have a stealing catalytic converter guy in our area.Any issues with thieves busting into cars to grab electronics like dash cams?
Not here, and I live in a big city by Canadian standards. You can have it record all the time or be motion activated. People are wary of them, because you can have them upload to a cloud, and possibly catch them on cam if they do.Thanks for the suggestion. I’ll look into that.
Any issues with thieves busting into cars to grab electronics like dash cams?
Nice!More heater core pics
1st picture shows the 9 of the 12 tubes blocked. Poured water in the top U tubes and it's dry on all the 9 of the 12 bottom outlet tubes. 100% blockage.
2nd picture is an overview.
3rd picture is me starting to rod the 9 plugged tubes. Felt like pushing a steel rod in mud.
More to follow.
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I've heard of a few like that, nothing goes missing around work and we have tons of crack heads around here. Mainly just smashed window, empty glove box, the usual stuff.We have a stealing catalytic converter guy in our area.
Hoping mine don't go missing.
My home security cams are pointing at my vehicles lately.
how does the contact coil of the CoP on the suspect look? Does idle get better or worse as the engine come up to temp?I wish there was a way to be more definitive about it, without having to tear the head off. If I knew it was going to drop the seat soon, I obviously would just not run the engine. Which would leave it to be a fixable situation in the future, if I ever chose to. Or if for example, I came across another with a bad driver side head. I guess I could pull the intake manifold off and scope through a runner and see if I see anything?
At this point from what I can see, there's no damage to the Piston or cylinder walls. So that to me at least makes it a possible candidate for repair if I can do so cheaply.
I think regardless though, this one is going to be a donor for the other, in terms of the transmission.
Only the usual stuff, heads, cams and lifters/rockers. I would likely buy a rebuilt one personally, but it would also depend on if the cylinders are oval-shaped or not for me..... I'm kind of lazy though lolHas anyone done an engine rebuild on the kj? I am considering doing it next spring so i have enough shakedown time before i head to Colorado.
Any tips and or tricks? My friend rebuilds older cars, but offered to help me rebuild mine. thanksOnly the usual stuff, heads, cams and lifters/rockers. I would likely buy a rebuilt one personally, but it would also depend on if the cylinders are oval-shaped or not for me..... I'm kind of lazy though lol
Nah, not worth anything on resale. I use a Kingslim. Affordable and reliable. inside/outside mode and an overnight security mode. Does a nice job for Ubering and adventure videos. Have great footage if coyotes peeing on the Jeep too.Thanks for the suggestion. I’ll look into that.
Any issues with thieves busting into cars to grab electronics like dash cams?
If you have access to the proper tools and equipment, engine rebuilds aren't hard. Time consuming though. The 3.7 is well documented. Most important thing is to have the block professionally cleaned after you get it disassembled. Is virtually impossible to DIY getting galleys and channels clean. Nothing beats a good dip and boil. Is also worth the bucks to have the block UV inspected for cracks and porosities too. Since you have it apart is a good time to swap to better valve collars and get the crank inspected/ balanced. I have long suspected quality control issues on the factory crank at #6. Only thing tricky is if journals need replacement- in some cases machining will be required.Has anyone done an engine rebuild on the kj? I am considering doing it next spring so i have enough shakedown time before i head to Colorado.
it looked fine. and I swapped it to #4 and there was no misfire from that. also swapped plugs so I confirmed it wasn't either of those.how does the contact coil of the CoP on the suspect look? Does idle get better or worse as the engine come up to temp?
Not really its a matter of taking lot's of measurements (depending what you are replacing). If you are reusing say pistons, just got the stock size rings, etc. Bearings you can go stock size if it looks like there isn't any wear on the crank shaft, etc. If you aren't changing things you can usually get away with using stock sizing.Any tips and or tricks? My friend rebuilds older cars, but offered to help me rebuild mine. thanks
I welded my own with some square tubing and flat stock.What did you use for spacers?
Yep. I agree, got a wonky rocker and/or a bearing journal. Motor oil metallic from the drain plug?it looked fine. and I swapped it to #4 and there was no misfire from that. also swapped plugs so I confirmed it wasn't either of those.
and I won't run it long enough to get it to warm up; makes a really NOT GOOD clink/tink sound from that bank that easily could be the rocker arm getting banged around.
That is just the traction stability control warning. Some times it kicks in but not long enough to flash the light.So we have a proper westerly gale blowing in from the Atlantic for a few days. A nice big lumpy one, not the southerly rubbish that blows up from Europe that's all posturing and no balls. Anyway, I was hooning up the motorway this morning, late for work as usual so doing 70mph. There are a couple of exposed areas and I got slammed quite hard by a gust. As I fought to stay in lane an alarm went of with a series of three chimes. No lights on dash. The next exposed area I was slammed again even harder, the same thing occurred. I decided I'd better slow down. When I came off the slip road I rang my brother to ask him what he thought. He suggested I probably had been lifted and it was a traction warning chime. What is the received wisdom Gents?