Did the differential oil on the front end. Did not break anything or hurt myself. :icon_lol:
What did you do to your jeep today?
- Thread starter TheQ
- Start date
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^ The Jeep says Thank You! One down 2 more to go= TC case & rear diff next?
I pulled the air box today and washed all the dirt out inside. Installed a new air filer too.
I pulled the air box today and washed all the dirt out inside. Installed a new air filer too.
It sure does, every time it starts up and gets me where I'm going and back.
Throw in a PS fluid cycling and that's the hat trick planned for tomorrow, unless the weather or my lousy cold postpones things.
Installed the fog lights since I had it torn apart replacing the radiator. While doing that I cut out the flexible section of trans hose that was leaking and did the twobobs cooling system including adding on the HD Cooling fans. Replaced the brake hardware up front to get the left caliper to stop grabbing. Now I just need my daughter to bring it home so I can drive it.
Ahh..Don't let a lousy cold get ya down. Here is a fun game for you to try..:icon_lol:
Halls Cold & Flu Invasion | Fun Halls Cough Drops Game | Candystand.com
Good Luck on the hat trick & Just to mention the power steering fluid really is ATF+4:gr_grin:
Pumped up the KJ tires again. Weekly event anymore with three of them losing air slowly. Pretty tight budget right now, but new ones soon. Thinking of going back to 235/70/16 from the 245/70/16 I have now. I'm liking the looks of the Cooper Adventurer ATs.
45 degrees here but I have inside demo work to do today.
45 degrees here but I have inside demo work to do today.
John3seventeen
Full Access Member
Drove it to pick up my next project!
First thing is to pull and hammer that dent out.
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First thing is to pull and hammer that dent out.
What do you plan to turn it in to?
A 28 foot Airstream
John3seventeen
Full Access Member
A.............
Trailer:happy175::happy175::happy175::happy175:
Trailer:happy175::happy175::happy175::happy175:
John3seventeen
Full Access Member
After I get the metal straight Id like to extend the deck 2' forward and put sides and a tailgate on it for now. I might tarp the top or eventually build a hard top for it. And the wheels dont match so Ill swap them out for my Jeep steel wheels.
That should be quite a fab job. :shakehead:
This site has room for only one smart-alec and that job is mine. :icon_twisted:
(I keed) :icon_lol:
TwoBobsKJ
Full Access Member
Got the rear axle bearings replaced in the Libby yesterday, and was a simple job except for one small detail...
The large center pin (pinion shaft) holds two of the spider gears and the axles in place. It's the round pin running vertically through the differential carrier in this pic:
The pinion shaft is held in place by a small, 8mm bolt, three quarters of which is a simple pin. It is not uncommon for this pin to break when removing - and the problem occurs not only in Chrysler differentials but GM and Ford diffs too. I had the bolt/pin almost all the way out - less than one thread still in the carrier - when it broke :favorites68:
Thankfully (there was a silver lining I guess...) it was 11:30 Saturday morning and the dealer parts department on the other side of the county was still open. Called and they had one pinion shaft bolt in stock for $5.50 - the parts department closed at Noon but the parts guy left the bolt with the showroom cashier. Love this parts department! Picked up the bolt, got back to the shop and tapped on the pinion shaft to maybe loosen up the bolt/pin - it worked! Used a very small center punch to spin the bolt in the carrier to where I could grab it and pull it out. The pinion shaft literally fell out of the carrier and I was on my way.
Pushed in the right axle from the end, pulled out the C-clip, then pulled the axle out so I could remove the bearing and seal. (Put the pinion shaft back in temporarily to hold the spider gears in place.) Used a bearing puller kit from AutoZone and had the bearing and seal out in three pops.
Cleaned out the old oil and debris from the bad bearing, put some diff oil around the bearing seat and set the bearing in the axle tube to be pressed in.
Here's the other side (forgot to take a pic of the first side.) I used a 1 3/4" socket to tap in the bearing:
Put the seal in place and tapped it in:
Literally took me 20 minutes from the time the pinion shaft dropped out until both bearings and seals were in place. Of course, then took 45 minutes to squeeze 2.2 quarts of 85W-140 into the diff :favorites68:
So if you have a rear axle bearing going bad, order a pinion shaft bolt before you start in case yours breaks (it's common) and you'll replace both bearings in less time than it takes to replace brake pads.
Bob
The large center pin (pinion shaft) holds two of the spider gears and the axles in place. It's the round pin running vertically through the differential carrier in this pic:
You must be registered for see images
The pinion shaft is held in place by a small, 8mm bolt, three quarters of which is a simple pin. It is not uncommon for this pin to break when removing - and the problem occurs not only in Chrysler differentials but GM and Ford diffs too. I had the bolt/pin almost all the way out - less than one thread still in the carrier - when it broke :favorites68:
You must be registered for see images
Thankfully (there was a silver lining I guess...) it was 11:30 Saturday morning and the dealer parts department on the other side of the county was still open. Called and they had one pinion shaft bolt in stock for $5.50 - the parts department closed at Noon but the parts guy left the bolt with the showroom cashier. Love this parts department! Picked up the bolt, got back to the shop and tapped on the pinion shaft to maybe loosen up the bolt/pin - it worked! Used a very small center punch to spin the bolt in the carrier to where I could grab it and pull it out. The pinion shaft literally fell out of the carrier and I was on my way.
Pushed in the right axle from the end, pulled out the C-clip, then pulled the axle out so I could remove the bearing and seal. (Put the pinion shaft back in temporarily to hold the spider gears in place.) Used a bearing puller kit from AutoZone and had the bearing and seal out in three pops.
You must be registered for see images
Cleaned out the old oil and debris from the bad bearing, put some diff oil around the bearing seat and set the bearing in the axle tube to be pressed in.
Here's the other side (forgot to take a pic of the first side.) I used a 1 3/4" socket to tap in the bearing:
You must be registered for see images
Put the seal in place and tapped it in:
You must be registered for see images
Literally took me 20 minutes from the time the pinion shaft dropped out until both bearings and seals were in place. Of course, then took 45 minutes to squeeze 2.2 quarts of 85W-140 into the diff :favorites68:
So if you have a rear axle bearing going bad, order a pinion shaft bolt before you start in case yours breaks (it's common) and you'll replace both bearings in less time than it takes to replace brake pads.
Bob
I checked the front differential which I changed the gear oil in yesterday - dry as a bone underneath and around the housing and plugs, so that is good.
Then I did the rear differential gear oil. Funny thing is, the cover wouldn't fit back on since the stinking dent was on the wrong side. Fifteen minutes with a 5 lb hammer and that problem was solved.
(April Fools Day is a weeks-long event for me - sorry!) :ROFLJest:
Torqued my LubeLocker gasket down as instructed, refilled it with 80W-90, then thanked my lucky stars that I wouldn't have to spend a half hour scraping off red RTV the next time I do this. I had that baby shining like a mirror when I was done, though. :mexsmoke:
Drove it around town for a while, then shot the moon and did some 70mph highway time. It may be the placebo effect, but things definitely feel smoother and peppier. When I poured the old gear oil back in the jug the new stuff came in it just about filled it. It made me feel better that the place where I had it done before hadn't shorted me and that it hadn't leaked any in the last 18 months since it was done. The inside of the rear differential looked pretty cruddy. I'd bet any money that the previous owner never had it done in the 42,000 miles they drove it, so I'm hoping a few more gear oil changes will help clear out any crud I couldn't get with my shop rags today.
Still need to do the Transfer Case and the Power Steering.
Then I did the rear differential gear oil. Funny thing is, the cover wouldn't fit back on since the stinking dent was on the wrong side. Fifteen minutes with a 5 lb hammer and that problem was solved.
(April Fools Day is a weeks-long event for me - sorry!) :ROFLJest:
Torqued my LubeLocker gasket down as instructed, refilled it with 80W-90, then thanked my lucky stars that I wouldn't have to spend a half hour scraping off red RTV the next time I do this. I had that baby shining like a mirror when I was done, though. :mexsmoke:
Drove it around town for a while, then shot the moon and did some 70mph highway time. It may be the placebo effect, but things definitely feel smoother and peppier. When I poured the old gear oil back in the jug the new stuff came in it just about filled it. It made me feel better that the place where I had it done before hadn't shorted me and that it hadn't leaked any in the last 18 months since it was done. The inside of the rear differential looked pretty cruddy. I'd bet any money that the previous owner never had it done in the 42,000 miles they drove it, so I'm hoping a few more gear oil changes will help clear out any crud I couldn't get with my shop rags today.
Still need to do the Transfer Case and the Power Steering.
I'm glad I finished mine before I read this or I'd have been too chicken to start. I just did the oil change, so no messing with parts in my case.
That's a great warning on the bolt. I never would have thought of it but will definitely have a replacement just in case. :favorites13:
Geez Bob those ebrake pads and springs look sort of nasty... :icon_lol:
TwoBobsKJ
Full Access Member
Things always go perfectly... Except when they don't. :shrug: I've come to expect the unexpected.
Don't they though!! I've never held the Liberty's E-brake system in very high regard and so it is the one area of my Jeep I basically ignore. That emergency brake system is not original to my Libby - Tom Mudd and I installed an axle from a 4 cylinder for the 4.10's and I didn't bother messing with the e-brakes. One day I'll dive into that project... :emotions34:
Bob
Good job Bob on the rear diff seals etc. I forgot we just left the e-brakes alone wise decision though:icon_lol:
I've never used my e-brake so I'm sure they look like new only rusted to heck .
The Prof is just going to town on his ! Next thing he'll be pulling the engine on a Friday night just to wax it
I've never used my e-brake so I'm sure they look like new only rusted to heck .
The Prof is just going to town on his ! Next thing he'll be pulling the engine on a Friday night just to wax it
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