Water Pump - How Long Do they Normally Last?

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JeepOwner07

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A lot of highway and in-town mileage - both.

I flush/refill every couple of years... and sometimes there are other repairs we do that require a flush/refill anyway (radiator, hoses, etc.).

I don't keep track of mileage so much with fluid maintenance... other than oil and coolant, all fluids are renewed once a year. I drive a LOT, so it makes sense.

not to hijack, But still on the same line, what is the procedure for flush/refill or are you getting it done at the dealer/stealer?
 

yellocoyote

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No, we do drain and refill at home. It's been done more than necessary, for one reason or another.

My KJ has only been to the dealer/shop once since I bought it (not counting tires/alignment).
 

sota

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looks like my pump just bought it. 54k miles on the jeep. started noticing a coolant smell. checked to day and the overflow tank is bone dry. rad cap showed coolant almost up to the top. no overheating signs either. just picked the wife up from the airport, popped the hood and can see where there's been spraying all over the place. there's a puddle of coolant in some casting pockets on the steering rack. some of the bolts on the pump are wet as well. guess I know what I'm doing soon!
 

mightybeet

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original with jeep lasted 140,000
#2 some brand 83,000
#3 mopar 57,000
#4 bosch 17,000 and still pumping
 

tjkj2002

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hmmm.... I guess it's not always that long lasting w/ mopar. I guess it depends on luck too.
Water pumps are 1 item that you just never now how they will last.Some may last 300k and others may last 3000 miles.Some brands are worse but can last but generally do not.


For Chryslers TrueFlow water pumps seem to do the best(Napa) and next is OEM.Ford's OEM water pumps are the only choice.GM it's a crap shoot,none last,more so those damn gaskets.Anything foreign use OEM only.This is from work experience that I have seen personally.
 

LibertyTC

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That is interesting "trueFlow water pumps seem to do the best(Napa)"
Are those re manufactured? Are the Mopar's new or remanned as well?
3YRS ago I had to replace my GM sedan's waterpump and went new only...Carter so far so good on that one.
 
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uss2defiant

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That is interesting "trueFlow water pumps seem to do the best(Napa)"
Are those re manufactured? Are the Mopar's new or remanned as well?
3YRS ago I had to replace my GM sedan's waterpump and went new only...Carter so far so good on that one.

TF water pump at NAPA is new. $49 vs $41 for remanned after online reservation 10% discount.

I would assume MOPAR is brand new., don't know.
 

Mangate

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Is the pump the same whether you have the HD cooling or not?

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2
 

vaksanov

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So I am guessing the seals around my old water pump were leaking so I went and got a replacement one from Advanced because there were traces of coolant all around WP. Once I removed the old one I saw that it had a metal wheel inside instead of plastic one like the new one. When I rotated pulley it had noise like rubber was rubbing and it had traces of some kind of sealant all around it other than the gasket. I didn't use any sealant on the new one, just the gasket, should I be ok? And also since there is no signs of failure on my old one, could it have been just the leaking gasket? I have read on here that plastic ones are the ones that go out so I am keeping my old one just in case I guess.

I also tried flushing it to remove the sealant shavings by adding 2 gal of distilled water and getting it to operational temp., let it cool off and drained it. But I don't think I got everything out as only 1 gal of G05 and 1 gal of water fit in. Last time I changed radiator it took almost 4 gal instead of just 2 :emotions34:
 

profdlp

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What hoses and plugs did you remove for the draining?

As for the gasket, I wondered if mine was the gasket too, but figured it would cost me as much in HOAT as the the water pump price if I was wrong. I also did not add any other sealant, but just used the gasket which came with the new pump and made sure I torqued it down evenly at the proper torque level.
 

uss2defiant

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Just a gasket.
No RTV or any kind of sealant. Doing so will cause a leak.
Also before installation, make sure mating surface is clean.
 

vaksanov

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I just removed the radiator plug to drain the water, and when it was almost done dripping I would turn the engine on for like 10 seconds to pump as much out as I can.
And yes I did sandpaper the old sealant off. And drained the air so it doesn't make bubbling noise anymore, now fingers crossed that most of the water got out with a flush because I only have 1 gal of zerex with with 1 gal of water, I don't want it to be too watered down if there was a bunch of water in the system already from trying to flush it. So i might drain some of the mixture and put more Zerex to be on a safe side.

P.S. I had a coupon so I figured for extra $15 I might as well just buy a new pump, lol i had to change my whole power steering by trying to just change the O-rings on the lines.
 
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profdlp

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This raises an interesting question: Is there a way to test the ratio of HOAT to water?

From what you've described, you only got just over half of the old mix out and you can't be sure how much of that was water and how much was coolant. I'd be tempted to drain another gallon and replace it with a 3:1 mixture of HOAT:Water. Between the two gallons of water you used during the flush and the gallon of water you added later I would guess that you are a little below the 50% mix you want.
 

kage860

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Yes there is a test device for ethylene glycol (HOAT is mainly ethylene glycol) with colored floats in it that gives % coolant / water based on density. It doesn't cost too much.

From my experience, you can't get it empty by just draining. So I usually flush it with water a few times and let it come up to operating temp each time and turn on the heat to ensure I'm flushing the whole system.

Then since the system is 14 quarts total I believe, I put in 7 quarts of G05 and top off with water. That gives 50/50.
 

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