Warped rotors

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jeepguy4276

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Would you feel in the steering wheel only the front rotor warpage? Would rear rotor warpage be felt in the steering wheel? When I hit the brakes hard after they've heated up, the steering wheel shakes and you can feel something is warped. Front pads and rotors are new but rears are a few years old. Everything was properly broken in. This is on a friends libby. I'm pretty sure it's an '06.
 

Conundrum2006

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I've had rear rotors shake so bad I thought it was the front, if you feel it in the steering wheel it's usually the front .
Even if the brakes are not that old they can warp. Had brake job done on a f150, rotor turned and new pads , less than 10k they were warped. But they are known for problem rotors.

Now if everything is brand new in the front I'd check things out to see if something else is worn out. Usually feeling it in the steering wheel means these a problem up front


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KJ604

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Warped rotors are also a myth. Uneven brake pads deposits are the more likely culprit. Avoid this by doing a proper break in procedure on new pads and rotors.

This can happen on brand new rotors if you don't do a proper break in
 

jeepguy4276

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Brakes were properly broken in. They are new rotors and pads, about 1500 miles or less. They feel nice and smooth until you really need to get on them from like a hiway speed. The steering wheel really shakes. I'll have to pull them all off and take them to a shop to see how they are on the turning lathe. I was hoping to avoid doing all of them.
 

Conundrum2006

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Seriously?







:favorites68:



Um, I've got some visibly warped rotors sitting in my garage that disagree. Hell I used to turn rotors and drums at a shop all day long we'd get warped parts to turn.


If everything is new I wonder what's causing the pulsating felt in the steering wheel.


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Cheyne

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Brakes were properly broken in. They are new rotors and pads, about 1500 miles or less. They feel nice and smooth until you really need to get on them from like a hiway speed. The steering wheel really shakes. I'll have to pull them all off and take them to a shop to see how they are on the turning lathe. I was hoping to avoid doing all of them.

No need to take them all apart. Jack up the vehicle, remove the tire and check the rotors with something like this one from Harbor Freight.

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KJ604

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LOL.

of course of course

its possible

but tell me im wrong about brake pad deposits

what happens the first time you come to a hard stop with a fresh set of pads and hold the pedal down? it leaves a deposit. which just grows and grows from there
 
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profdlp

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I've had rear rotors shake so bad I thought it was the front...
I just did all my brakes a couple months ago. I was having the steering wheel shake thing going on. The rear set looked far worse than did the front pair, so yes, rear rotors can rattle your carpals.
 

tjkj2002

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Somewhere between being sane and insane!
Warped rotors are also a myth. Uneven brake pads deposits are the more likely culprit. Avoid this by doing a proper break in procedure on new pads and rotors.

This can happen on brand new rotors if you don't do a proper break in

Seriously?



:favorites68:

Um, I've got some visibly warped rotors sitting in my garage that disagree. Hell I used to turn rotors and drums at a shop all day long we'd get warped parts to turn.


If everything is new I wonder what's causing the pulsating felt in the steering wheel.


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Then I guess you're having a heart attack.

Warped rotors are real, not a myth.
Technically speaking "warped" rotors are truly a "myth".

The actual technical term is "excessive lateral runout" which can be caused by many things like.........................

-Corrosion on rotor/hub matting surface
-High/low spots created either by uneven wear or brake pad deposits
-Bent hub
-Bent rotor hat
-Uneven wheel torque
 

JasonJ

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LOL.

of course of course

its possible

but tell me im wrong about brake pad deposits

what happens the first time you come to a hard stop with a fresh set of pads and hold the pedal down? it leaves a deposit. which just grows and grows from there

And if you properly bed in/break in the new pads and rotors, this is less likely to occur. That's why proper bed in procedure has you doing multiple slow stops without actually coming to a stop before accelerating up to speed for the next brake application.

What you're saying isn't totally untrue, yeah, new pads that are stopped and held on hot rotors will indeed leave a lot of residue.
 

KJ604

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That's what I said in my first post. I was just suggesting maybe a proper break in wasn't done but then OP said he did one so the point is moot
 

JasonJ

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That's what I said in my first post. I was just suggesting maybe a proper break in wasn't done but then OP said he did one so the point is moot

Sure.. I gotcha. Hard to convey meaning in text online.

Here's the new question, no offense intended... OP says they did a proper break-in; but I've talked to lots of people who say that, and they each seem to have a different idea of what proper break-in or bed-in for brakes actually is.

Can we get a run down from the OP on what procedure was followed? If they just ran her from high speed and hit the brakes hard to a stop multiple times, that's not doing anything helpful and can overheat new rotors and glaze new pads, resulting in really really horrible braking performance.
 

meoget

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Just my 2c, I thought I had severely warped rotors on my Liberty, but it was worn out tie rod ends. I know, but it didn't feel my other cars with bad tie rod ends.
For what it's worth, every time I thought my rotors were warped (in any car), it almost always turned out to be something else.
 

jeepguy4276

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Sure.. I gotcha. Hard to convey meaning in text online.

Here's the new question, no offense intended... OP says they did a proper break-in; but I've talked to lots of people who say that, and they each seem to have a different idea of what proper break-in or bed-in for brakes actually is.

Can we get a run down from the OP on what procedure was followed? If they just ran her from high speed and hit the brakes hard to a stop multiple times, that's not doing anything helpful and can overheat new rotors and glaze new pads, resulting in really really horrible braking performance.


I did the typical 45 slow to near stop but no stop several times then high speed slow down with no stop a couple times, let cool, etc. I have the exact procedure written down at home that I always use. I helped did the brakes and break in. I've seen the same method outlined on here and other sights before. If you want me to post the exact and complete procedure, but it's the break in recommended by most people and manufacturers.
 

John3seventeen

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I'll throw an oddball at you. Mine was doing the same thing till I replaced the front brake hoses & calipers.
 
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