Upper control arms?

[ouroboros]

So my LF UBJ has a ton of play to it as well as both inners... Still need to throw it back up on the lift and check the CVs since I just got the thing a couple weeks ago and am hoping I don't have to do much more than tires, windshield, UCAs, inners and an alignment. Now, for the tie rods I'm going moog.. I get them super cheap (like $20ish) and I'm debating on the UCAs I want. I was going to splurge and get the JBA UCAs but I've been debating on buying masterpro arms and calling it good with a lifetime warranty, PLUS I get them at cost thanks to my lovely lady being on employee for Oreillys. Basically, I'm just trying to gain a little insight to see if anyone has had much problem or and opinions on them etc. Bit of background, I have an 04 Limited with about 3" of lift. Not too worried about spring contact issues unless it turns out to be a real issue, but with the lifetime warranty if the UBJs keep going bad, I'll just keep using that good ol life time warranty!

Oh and PS pretty positive I need the LF bearing done as well, tons of noise around 40-50 mph but saw no play when I had it up on the hoist.. Might stay away from the moog for $144 and get a precision with the same warranty for $120

 

[WickedBruce]

Why replace it with an arm that has non-removable ball joints? Just get the jba and you can replace the ball joints for a couple bucks when It goes bad

 

[tombo_ontario]

^ ya definitely go with the JBA a-arms. With 3" of lift it really seems like a no brainer for the improved ball joint angle and ease of "replaceability". Sure you get a lifetime warranty with the other ones, but having to change out the whole arm every time the ball joint goes bad would be a PITA.

As for the bearings (I assume you mean wheel bearings).. I think a lot of people on here will vouch for timken or SKF. Anything else and you may have to replace again within the year

 

[megatone]

UCA's with zerk grease fittings are something to consider. Helps to eliminate that annoying rubber bushing squeak that develops when a stock style bushing starts moving in the bushing case. My brother-in-law takes his Libby (mud) wheelin' quite often. In the time span of three years he's replaced stock style UCA's twice due to bushing squeaks. He then replaces the UCA's with a pair that had zerk fittings......hasn't had to replace the UCA's yet....and that was 6 years ago.

 

[ouroboros]

UCA's with zerk grease fittings are something to consider. Helps to eliminate that annoying rubber bushing squeak that develops when a stock style bushing starts moving in the bushing case. My brother-in-law takes his Libby (mud) wheelin' quite often. In the time span of three years he's replaced stock style UCA's twice due to bushing squeaks. He then replaces the UCA's with a pair that had zerk fittings......hasn't had to replace the UCA's yet....and that was 6 years ago.

What UCAs did he go with? Haven't had any bushing squeak issues quite yet. We will see soon enough though when I head up to the Tawas/Oscoda area and do some trail riding in September.

 

[ouroboros]

^ ya definitely go with the JBA a-arms. With 3" of lift it really seems like a no brainer for the improved ball joint angle and ease of "replaceability". Sure you get a lifetime warranty with the other ones, but having to change out the whole arm every time the ball joint goes bad would be a PITA.

As for the bearings (I assume you mean wheel bearings).. I think a lot of people on here will vouch for timken or SKF. Anything else and you may have to replace again within the year

True, I've consistently read about them and the ball joint angle is a no brainer but alas... I'm cheap. Replacing the control arm isn't really a huge issue for me given my line of work either, so that's part of the reason I was considering a set of stock replacements with a lifetime warranty, I bite the bullet once, they bite the bullet as many time as I can break it.

Wheel bearings, yep. Precision bearings and Moogs come with 3 year 36,000 mile warranties. Another reason I considered the precision was the bit of cost difference. I'll have to give my parts supplier a call and see what the Timkens run as far as price and warranty.

 

[ouroboros]

Anyone know anyone that has a set of JBA UCAs up for grabs? Lol :shrug:

 

[megatone]

^^^ Hahaha....nobody gets rid of JBA UCA's.....not that I know of anyways.

 

[megatone]

As for the bearings (I assume you mean wheel bearings).. I think a lot of people on here will vouch for timken

I remake/upgrade custom vehicles for a living at the shop I work at. Trucks, cars, fwd's, rwd's, awd's, 4x4's.....shop owner INSISTS on the wheel bearings being ONLY manufactured by Timken. Thier bearings cost a few bucks more, but I have NEVER known of any vehicle returning to the shop due to bearing failure.

My opinion, Timken is the best.

 

[ouroboros]

^^^ Hahaha....nobody gets rid of JBA UCA's.....not that I know of anyways.

Hey maybe someone got ass packed and totaled out..! I'll gladly buy your parts :emotions34:

 

[ouroboros]

I remake/upgrade custom vehicles for a living at the shop I work at. Trucks, cars, fwd's, rwd's, awd's, 4x4's.....shop owner INSISTS on the wheel bearings being ONLY manufactured by Timken. Thier bearings cost a few bucks more, but I have NEVER known of any vehicle returning to the shop due to bearing failure.

My opinion, Timken is the best.

That's what I've been debating on, the Timken or Moog bearings. I'll call around to the different parts stores hopefully tomorrow and see about pricing. Gotta love that belle tire deal! :gr_grin:

 

[CactusJacked]

I've replaced quite a number of bearing hubs over the years and use nothing but Timken. They served me well. I usually get them from rockauto.com, don't forget their 5% discount if you're doing some price shopping.

 

[ouroboros]

I've replaced quite a number of bearing hubs over the years and use nothing but Timken. They served me well. I usually get them from rockauto.com, don't forget their 5% discount if you're doing some price shopping.

Ended up going with the Precision today, unfortunately the Timken wasn't anywhere near my area in my preferred vendor list at work. We'll see how it works out! Found out though that the big difference between Moog/Precision and Timken is that Timken's steel is manufactured here in the USA but then shipped over seas for assembly, while Moog/Precision steel and assembly is all done overseas. Doesn't make sense why Timken would do that, you'd think it'd be more cost effective to keep manufacturing and assembly right here in the states.

 

[u2slow]

RRO's arms are working fine for me.

I went with cheap unit bearings first, and the first expired in 12-18 months running 245/75R16s on 1.25"spacers. Now it has Timkens.... so far so good.

 

[ouroboros]

RRO's arms are working fine for me.

I went with cheap unit bearings first, and the first expired in 12-18 months running 245/75R16s on 1.25"spacers. Now it has Timkens.... so far so good.

I will never run spacers, ever. I will sooner swap to a different wheel with a 0 offset before spacers. All you're doing with them is causing extra strain on all your suspension and steering components in the front end.. I know there's a lot of guys out there that run them, and that's fine but they're just not for me. Hopefully the factory wheel with a 6 ply Mastercraft AXT isn't too bad on my parts though. Besides I want the Cragar V5 :gr_grin:

Cragar 365-5812 - CRAGAR Series 365 Black V5 Wheel for Jeep® Vehicles with 5x4.5 Bolt Pattern - Quadratec

 

[tommudd]

I will never run spacers, ever. I will sooner swap to a different wheel with a 0 offset before spacers. All you're doing with them is causing extra strain on all your suspension and steering components in the front end.. I know there's a lot of guys out there that run them, and that's fine but they're just not for me. Hopefully the factory wheel with a 6 ply Mastercraft AXT isn't too bad on my parts though. Besides I want the Cragar V5 :gr_grin:

Cragar 365-5812 - CRAGAR Series 365 Black V5 Wheel for Jeep® Vehicles with 5x4.5 Bolt Pattern - Quadratec

Wrong wheels
7 inch wide and 4 inches of backspacing after lifting
8 inch wide will cause issues with rubbing

 

[u2slow]

I will never run spacers, ever. I will sooner swap to a different wheel with a 0 offset before spacers. All you're doing with them is causing extra strain on all your suspension and steering components in the front end..

Ummm... there's no more strain on the steering or suspension with a 0 offset wheel vs. positive offset wheel w/spacer. Think about it.... :hmm:

 

[tombo_ontario]

Ummm... there's no more strain on the steering or suspension with a 0 offset wheel vs. positive offset wheel w/spacer. Think about it.... :hmm:

exactly right...I feel like a lot of people hear something bad about spacers (some horror story usually with some off-brand crappy spacer) and instantly are against them. I think if you are smart enough to torque them properly and check them at oil changes or when you rotate your tires they will give you no problems at all. I had them on mine for ~1500kms and only took them off recently because I finally found a set of moabs for a great price. And when I took them off not a single bolt had backed off even a single ft/lb!

The only downside I see after using them is that its a lot more bolts to take off if you are going to try and access the rotors or hub :thumbsdown:

 

[CactusJacked]

exactly right...I feel like a lot of people hear something bad about spacers (some horror story usually with some off-brand crappy spacer) and instantly are against them. I think if you are smart enough to torque them properly and check them at oil changes or when you rotate your tires they will give you no problems at all. I had them on mine for ~1500kms and only took them off recently because I finally found a set of moabs for a great price. And when I took them off not a single bolt had backed off even a single ft/lb!

For peace of mind, and extra safety, putting red loctite on the adapter nuts is a must, then they can't back out blindly. I've had mine on for about 3 years with no issues, but I got the good kind; American made, custom fit, hub centric, good grade billet aluminum. Never want to use the cheapo ones that rely solely on the lug nuts to keep it locked in. Plus some of the China made ones may be using a cheaper grade of "billet". Essentially, adapter spacers are simply altering (lessening) the wheels back spacing, which, as far as the suspension is concerned, is the exact same thing as running wheels with that much less back spacing.

 

[tommudd]

I tested a set of spacers back 6-7 years ago ( name brand blue ones)
Ran them for 22 hours of driving and removed, could see no use in using them plus if paying full price you can buy a set of wheels almost for what they cost
Would never run them again