Towing with spare on back

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cdh1125

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I bought a new toy earlier this week a coleman pop up camper. I was wondering how you guys were towing with the spare on the back. The camper is level with a 2" drop ball mount, but the tow bar can't hook on the ball with the spare back there. I have the factory mopar hitch. What is everyone else doing? thanks
 

tjkj2002

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I towed my 6'x10' enclosed trailer all the time with my spare on the back gate,heck it was even a 265/75 to boot.I also had the MOPAR hitch with a 3" drop receiver.They key was I had to move the front jack farther back,I also had to hook the trailer up with the back gate open to lock the latch since when locked it had about 1" of clearance but not enough room to unlatch.

I did remove my spare and threw it on my roof rack but only because the heavy MT/R was starting to sag my rear gate.
 

offroadohio

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I run an extended slug. its a few inches longer than normal so it sticks past the tire.

you can see it in my avatar
 

Bikeflyer

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My hitch came with the reciever tube extending to the right spot where the ball is right under the rear edge of the tire. Just far enough to hitch but not knock my shins on. I agree, an extender may be an option provided the leverage does not induce excessive tongue flex.
 

kb0nly

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Same here, i just open the rear gate and hook up and then close it. Now i don't know if you have enough clearance to do that with your popup, i know i probably wouldn't be able to with the popup we used to own because of the jack and the battery box on the hitch.

I would go with the longer ball mount if you need it. To me thats a sturdier option than one of those extenders with a ball mount because its one piece instead of two.
 

sleeve

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If you haven't already: Take the spare tire off and flip the spare tire carrier 180 degrees and reassemble. This moves the spare tire up slightly and might give you a little more clearance.

If flipping the spare tire carrier doesn't work - you can always use the open swing gate method... I am also a active participant of this approach. Open the gate / Hook up the sail boat / stuff the cargo area / close gate / walk around and do a double check... head for the lake.
 

Dave

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I have 3 different trailers and they all hook up a little different. One needs a 2 1/2" drop so that the trailer is level for instance. On another I can't use a drop but need a straight bar and the one I had wouldn't clear the tire. So I went to a local travel trailer place and looked at their drawbars. I picked out a 14" one and tried it in my receiver and bingo.......It was perfect. I also have the factory hitch on mine. Any local place that sells trailers, campers, boats should have a selection of different drawbars, etc and would be able to help......if they know what they are doing.

You do need to realize that the further out the ball is, the more it lessens your acceptable tongue weight. But that said I have had no problems with mine.

Dave
 
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Ry' N Jen

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Not like I am a pro on anything when it comes to towing a trailer, but I have towed a few with out Liberty and so far I/we have not had any issues due to the spare tire mounted on the back of the tailgate.
I even went out and bought an extension to allow for a trailer to be hitched some 24 inches from the stock trailer hitch.
The only real disadvantage with that is that it cuts the towing capacity down to 3500 Lbs. instead of 5000 Lbs.
Not a big deal if I'm only pulling a light weight utility trailer.
But should I pull something heavier it would become an issue!
I even pulled a light weight fully loaded 26 foot long travel trailer weighing some 4300 Lbs for a "Test ride" for 1/2 of an hour without any manoeuvring or handling problems.
(Mind you, It was too big and too much for what we need, and way more weight that I want to pull. And I only towed it on a level roadway and the KJ would be completely gutless on any mountain passes!
But I sure got the RV salesman's mouth watering!:D
 

tommudd

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with my lift , and the drop I need to run I can now hook up any trailer I have ( have 3 different ones -6'X10' enclosed-5'X8' flat bed and my little one to haul camping gear 4'X4' ) with the spare on, before I lifted couldn't do it so another reason to go HIGHER!!!
 

cdh1125

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If you haven't already: Take the spare tire off and flip the spare tire carrier 180 degrees and reassemble. This moves the spare tire up slightly and might give you a little more clearance.

thanks that solved everything and I didnt have to worry about using an extension and any problems that would cause. Oh yea and I didnt have to spend any money:)
 

kb0nly

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Does it make the spare closer to the rear glass or is there still plenty of clearance for the glass?

How much did that actually move the spare upward??
 

sleeve

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I think I got about 1/2" of additional clearance but I never really measured so I'm just guessing but the change is pretty decent. Also, you will still have clearance to open the flipper glass with the tire carrier rotated 180 degree's.
 

67Customs

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My 6'x10' trailer works just fine with my spare tire on the gate. However, my camper does not. I can hook it up with the gate open, but the jack hits the tire if I turn too much. So, when I am using my camper, I throw the spare up on the rack.
 

LibertyFever

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My 6'x10' trailer works just fine with my spare tire on the gate. However, my camper does not. I can hook it up with the gate open, but the jack hits the tire if I turn too much. So, when I am using my camper, I throw the spare up on the rack.

I've had success with flipping the spare tire carrier and the rear glass didn't hit the spare. For the summer I've simply tossed the spare on the roof rack to get it totally out of the way.
 

GYPSY400

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I run an extended slug. its a few inches longer than normal so it sticks past the tire.

you can see it in my avatar

I use the same set-up.. Made mine at work instead of buying one.. The drawbar is 16" long instead of 12" like normal ones.. the only problem is that sometimes the light harness is too short on some trailers, but I have been lucky and it hasn't pulled out yet.
 
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