Throttle loss problem, IAT and throttle body location?

[Pgy]

Hi all,

I have been experiencing a throttle loss problem for a few weeks now, when trying to accelerate after breaking. I had a similar problem back in 2019 and the dealer cleaned a sensor ( possibly IAT sensor ) which seemed to solve the problem.
I'm trying to locate the sensor so I could maybe clean it myself.

And I would also like to clean the throttle body but I don't know where it is on my model.

If anyone has a similar model and could point me out to either that would be great!
Kj liberty renegade 2003 2.8CRD

any other suggestions on what might cause the throttle loss would be greatly appreciated.

I don't have any check engine lights or similar warnings on the dash.

thank you all!

 

[KJowner]

It's in the rear of the head, combined with the boost pressure sensor (MAP). Remove the plastic engine cover and look at the back right top corner of the engine.
Mine was filthy....
This is a really good labeled picture I shamelessly pinched from the Internet, its got a few extra bits that the old European Jeeps don't have so don't worry if you can't see all the bits under your bonnet! We don't have a throttle body or any form of air mass metering, it's calculated by the ECU using pressure and temperature from the MAP.
Oh and if you buy a new MAP sensor don't get a cheap one, stick with Bosch.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Pgy]

It's in the rear of the head, combined with the boost pressure sensor (MAP). Remove the plastic engine cover and look at the back right top corner of the engine.
Mine was filthy....
This is a really good labeled picture I shamelessly pinched from the Internet, its got a few extra bits that the old European Jeeps don't have so don't worry if you can't see all the bits under your bonnet! We don't have a throttle body or any form of air mass metering, it's calculated by the ECU using pressure and temperature from the MAP.
Oh and if you buy a new MAP sensor don't get a cheap one, stick with Bosch.

You must be registered for see images attach

Thank you! I'll print this out and check! I have the diagram from the KJ manual but things look a whole lot different in person ..

 

[KJowner]

Thank you! I'll print this out and check! I have the diagram from the KJ manual but things look a whole lot different in person ..

No problem, hopefully this will sort it out. Don't poke or scrub the sensor, blast it with cleaning spray over some newspaper or similar, it will be filthy. Once you have done it you could improve things drastically by removing the vacuum line from the EGR solenoid and put something in to block it before plugging it back in. This will stop the muck getting into the engines inlet so the sensor will stay cleaner.

 

[Pgy]

I cleaned the MAP sensor, I was going to search for an O2 sensor replacement too, but it seems this model doesn't have one? I'm not sure if this is right or not but I can't lift the car to look.
2003 KJ, 2.8 CRD

 

[KJowner]

No they are simple old things, no O2 sensor.

 

[CRD-Joe]

Also you can get more performance if you unplug the maf on the air filter. This turns off the egr system which is a huge pain for these motors. You'll get better throttle response, mpg, and increase torque. It will turn on the check engine light, but doesn't cause any harm. It's known as part of the off road mod . Just plug it back in a bit before inspection so your light goes off.
As noted above the map sensor plays a huge part in these motors. I used to carry a 2nd one. This way I could swap in a new or clean one, then clean the gunked up one to use next time. The egr system guns these motors up so badly this is why I went to the method of unplugging the maf. Highly reduces that gunk, as well using a catch can from Sasquatch helps too. Good luck and enjoy your crd. They are fun little machines.

 

[Pgy]

No they are simple old things, no O2 sensor.

Even better then! I found a bunch of them online and some said they fit my KJ.. I'm glad i didn't jump the gun and bought one

 

[Pgy]

Also you can get more performance if you unplug the maf on the air filter. This turns off the egr system which is a huge pain for these motors. You'll get better throttle response, mpg, and increase torque. It will turn on the check engine light, but doesn't cause any harm. It's known as part of the off road mod . Just plug it back in a bit before inspection so your light goes off.
As noted above the map sensor plays a huge part in these motors. I used to carry a 2nd one. This way I could swap in a new or clean one, then clean the gunked up one to use next time. The egr system guns these motors up so badly this is why I went to the method of unplugging the maf. Highly reduces that gunk, as well using a catch can from Sasquatch helps too. Good luck and enjoy your crd. They are fun little machines.

Thank you for the advice! I cleaned the MAP sensor today and will go for a test drive later to see if it helped. It looked sort of dirty but i don't know what would qualify as very bad or just normal wear .. Here's a photo ( i hope it uploads correctly..)
Already made an appointment with the dealer for EGR cleanup, i have no idea what state it's in so i figured they can see first before i attempt anything

I definitely like the car, just trying to learn as i go!

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[CRD-Joe]

Definitely dirty, I've seen worse to the point there's hard carbon gunked outside that cage. Look up- git it garage on YouTube. He does a lot of crd stuff on there. In fact he has a map sensor he'll show you that's as gunked up as I just said.

 

[Kawika]

Thank you for the advice! I cleaned the MAP sensor today and will go for a test drive later to see if it helped. It looked sort of dirty but i don't know what would qualify as very bad or just normal wear .. Here's a photo ( i hope it uploads correctly..)
Already made an appointment with the dealer for EGR cleanup, i have no idea what state it's in so i figured they can see first before i attempt anything

I definitely like the car, just trying to learn as i go!

You must be registered for see images attach

Crd clean up can be done with a diesel additive. Not sayin' what I use but, it is available from Vatozone or...
Takes a tank or 2 but solves that problem and you just use it every 10 tanks or so.
I've owned my CRD since it had 15 miles on it and it has 160,000 miles now and it runs as smooth sa sewing machine.
I spent 7500$ to make sure I would never have the ****** problems these are known for and it kicks ass.

 

[Kawika]

Crd clean up can be done with a diesel additive. Not sayin' what I use but, it is available from Vatozone or...
Takes a tank or 2 but solves that problem and you just use it every 10 tanks or so.
I've owned my CRD since it had 15 miles on it and it has 160,000 miles now and it runs as smooth sa sewing machine.
I spent 7500$ to make sure I would never have the ****** problems these are known for and it kicks ass.

WOW!! i just used the word ****** for transmission.So this site uses woke crap to edit your response.
That BS is for other things than this.
Sorry admin, butt that is LAME.
I like to help others, but that is going to far as $ucking up the English language.

 

[Pgy]

I put the MAP sensor back and went for a drive, not even 5 mins in and the check engine light went on. I did the Key error code test and I got the following ( in order of appearance)

P0520
P0235
P2120
P0651

Please help! Is is safe to drive at all? I'm taking a few miles to the gas station and grocery shop & back..

I'm not taking any chances, I'd rather get an Uber.. My dealer appt isn't until September 8

 

[Pgy]

Crd clean up can be done with a diesel additive. Not sayin' what I use but, it is available from Vatozone or...
Takes a tank or 2 but solves that problem and you just use it every 10 tanks or so.
I've owned my CRD since it had 15 miles on it and it has 160,000 miles now and it runs as smooth sa sewing machine.
I spent 7500$ to make sure I would never have the ****** problems these are known for and it kicks ass.

Please send me a PM if you can't say here what brand you're using.

 

[CRD-Joe]

Others can chirp in but it sounds like you either broke your 5v sensor/reference wire, or unplugged a harness by accident somewhere. One code is oil pressure switch, one is for your boost sensor, one is for your throttle pedal sensor, an the last is for your reference wire not being seen. Look around the harness where you unplugged the map. It's possible u knocked something loose. Or these wires get brittle and could had broke inside the insulation. If everything was good before you definitely lost your reference wire causing all these issues. Look for a yellow/pink wire with a stripe. I believe it's pink with a yellow stripe, it's been awhile. My guess you disconnected or broke a wire.

 

[Pgy]

Others can chirp in but it sounds like you either broke your 5v sensor/reference wire, or unplugged a harness by accident somewhere. One code is oil pressure switch, one is for your boost sensor, one is for your throttle pedal sensor, an the last is for your reference wire not being seen. Look around the harness where you unplugged the map. It's possible u knocked something loose. Or these wires get brittle and could had broke inside the insulation. If everything was good before you definitely lost your reference wire causing all these issues. Look for a yellow/pink wire with a stripe. I believe it's pink with a yellow stripe, it's been awhile. My guess you disconnected or broke a wire.

I'll make a photo and upload it here. I really don't know, I was super careful..
Is it unsafe to drive? I need to get to the dealer at least ..

 

[CRD-Joe]

I would check it thoroughly first. I feel like you have a wiring issue now. If you had low or no oil pressure it would be making a nasty knocking noise. If the turbo manifold isn't working properly you'll have poor boost performance and it will be extremely sluggish. The throttle pedal tells the system the resistance of how much your using the pedal for accelerating. That 5v reference wire can cause a lot of havoc. It tells your PCM and FCM (pre-2006) what's going on to operate properly.

 

[Pgy]

I would check it thoroughly first. I feel like you have a wiring issue now. If you had low or no oil pressure it would be making a nasty knocking noise. If the turbo manifold isn't working properly you'll have poor boost performance and it will be extremely sluggish. The throttle pedal tells the system the resistance of how much your using the pedal for accelerating. That 5v reference wire can cause a lot of havoc. It tells your PCM and FCM (pre-2006) what's going on to operate properly.

I checked the wires at the connectors, but I can't see anything broken or out of place. Some are bundled and taped together lower in the engine block but I can't reach them or see anything. I didn't touch anything there though..
I fueled the car and returned home, I probably drove less than 12 miles since the check engine light went on. I had the same loss of power, slight sluggish when accelerating but nothing worse than before this whole thing happened. No noises, no rough idle, no issues when starting up basically no other issues.

 

[CRD-Joe]

There is part of the harness that runs down the firewall that's really close to the egr system. That wire harness sometimes gets melted or pinched. Have you had your fuel gauge drop or oil light come on, water in fuel come on, an etc.?
Other things you can do is pull the pedal out, as it's only held in by 3 nuts and use an ohm meter to check resistance. An you can test the turbo boost module, and oil sensor (located on oil filter assembly)as well.

 

[Kawika]

Please send me a PM if you can't say here what brand you're using.

Any cetane based diesel cleaners work well and don't forget to use the BEST oil you can find
I use Mobil 1 heavy duty turbo diesel oil.It will help all around.