Synthetic oil

[belvedere]

We're cool!
I respect every bodies opinion.

Same here!

 

[dhdenney]

Bought my KJ three weeks ago with almost 127K on it and by Sunday I had Mobil 1 5W-40 in it. Just because it has higher mileage doesn't mean it won't benefit from a reduction in wear metals.

 

[tjkj2002]

Bought my KJ three weeks ago with almost 127K on it and by Sunday I had Mobil 1 5W-40 in it. Just because it has higher mileage doesn't mean it won't benefit from a reduction in wear metals.

5w-40 is the wrong weight of oil for a KJ,even with 100,000+miles.

 

[dhdenney]

5w-40 is the wrong weight of oil for a KJ,even with 100,000+miles.

Haha, I was more interested in the oil's properties than an owner's manual spec.

 

[Powerslave]

5w-40 is the wrong weight of oil for a KJ,even with 100,000+miles.

I have gone as far to use 10W40 in my V6 Dodge Avenger, and it also requires 5w30, and as I said, 145K miles on it, not one failure. The problem with using the thicker oil, is the returns; supposedly, are not large enough to accommodate the thicker oil. I had no problems at all...

Anyone want to give the REAL reasons why NOT to use 5w40, or even 10w30 (all I have used in the Avenger)? I hear 0w40 is ok... Is it because of the oil returns, or too high pressure? What? Or, lets hear about how tight the tolerances are, and thicker oil can damage the engine... Maybe the Hydraulic lash adjusters can' work right with thicker oil, what is it really?

 

[dhdenney]

I have gone as far to use 10W40 in my V6 Dodge Avenger, and it also requires 5w30, and as I said, 145K miles on it, not one failure. The problem with using the thicker oil, is the returns; supposedly, are not large enough to accommodate the thicker oil. I had no problems at all...

Anyone want to give the REAL reasons why NOT to use 5w40, or even 10w30 (all I have used in the Avenger)? I hear 0w40 is ok... Is it because of the oil returns, or too high pressure? What? Or, lets hear about how tight the tolerances are, and thicker oil can damage the engine... Maybe the Hydraulic lash adjusters can' work right with thicker oil, what is it really?

Yeah I'm not buying any argument against a 40 weight in a gasser. I mean how many engines out there are gonna say anything different than 5w30? I'm willing to bet the 5w40 M1 I am using has better properties than most any 5w30 and hands down the most robust additive package out there.

 

[tjkj2002]

Newer engines,even when at 100,000+ miles still have a factored tolerance for the original recommended oil weight.Increasing oil pressure on a 100,000 mile engine can cause early failure,can is the key word and doesn't mean it will.A "tight" engine requires thinner oil and is built to last longer,a "loose" engine requires heavy oil and is not ment for longevity.Can you get away with it? Sure but you gain nothing and you will lose power,efficiency,and MPG's with thicker oil.

10w-30 is approved to run in the KJ in hotter temps,40 weight is to heavy and has no more additives then 5w-20 oil made by the same company,maybe less but not more.

 

[Dave]

Yeah I'm not buying any argument against a 40 weight in a gasser. I mean how many engines out there are gonna say anything different than 5w30? I'm willing to bet the 5w40 M1 I am using has better properties than most any 5w30 and hands down the most robust additive package out there.

I am not going to debate it with you and you could run any oil and weight that you like but if you compared Mobil 1 in 5w40 that you are using and Mobil 1 in 5w30, I am pretty sure that the additive package would be the same. Only the weight would be different. The weight is recomended buy the mfg and they made the motor, and are warranting it so I would lean toward their recomended weight personally. But like I said, you can run any weight you desire. It is your jeep.

Just some thoughts.

Dave

 

[dhdenney]

WOW. I think I am gonna have to stop coming here. The heresay here wreaks. Has anyone here ever done oil analysis? If I wanted to spend a couple hundred bucks I could prove you wrong on that but I'm not gonna do it. Additive packages can be very different across weights. The wider the numbers the greater the protection. Lose power and MPG's?????? I filled up yesterday and did a tank of average of 19.8. I don't think I'm losing much.

 

[RenegadeJay]

Wouldn't it be "Chickens first" not "chicken"....unless chickens are like flowers are can reproduce asexually, they need multiple, hence Chickens or the egg. Anyway, since my attempt at humor is falling faster than someone walking through a puddle of oil, synthetic or regular. Is there a point in which switching to synthetic is not recommended? I have never ran synthetic in a vehicle and would like to since I will have this a while. I have just reached 34,500 on my 06 and will need an oil change in about another 1500. I don't know what has been used in this vehicle prior to my purchasing it since this will be the first oil change. Is it worth it, or am I beyond the benifits?

 

[tjkj2002]

Yeah I'm not buying any argument against a 40 weight in a gasser. I mean how many engines out there are gonna say anything different than 5w30? I'm willing to bet the 5w40 M1 I am using has better properties than most any 5w30 and hands down the most robust additive package out there.

You do know that the only Mobil1 5w-40 is a diesel oil right? Not ment for gas engines since they have a different additive package that is specific for diesel engines and does not have the additives for gas engine use.

 

[dhdenney]

You do know that the only Mobil1 5w-40 is a diesel oil right? Not ment for gas engines since they have a different additive package that is specific for diesel engines and does not have the additives for gas engine use.

Check the bottle. It carries both specs. The additive package is stronger because of diesel engines which is a plus to me. The anatomy of an engine is the same (basically), gas or diesel. More additives equals longer oil life and can be a better degree of protection. Your arguments might hold up if I were using a straight weight oil but I am not. See if you can factually argue against the spec I am using.

 

[tjkj2002]

Check the bottle. It carries both specs. The additive package is stronger because of diesel engines which is a plus to me. The anatomy of an engine is the same (basically), gas or diesel. More additives equals longer oil life and can be a better degree of protection. Your arguments might hold up if I were using a straight weight oil but I am not. See if you can factually argue against the spec I am using.

The difference is diesels have a soot problem,nature of the fuel,that gas engines do not have.The reason for longer diesel oil changes is they tend to hold more oil and have bigger filters then gas engines.Diesels need the heavier oil since the nature of compression fired engines and heavier internal parts need the thicker oil to maintain the proper lubrication that a gas engine does not require.Again you are going to see zero benefits from running it.You should never run past the factory recommended oil change intervals anyway unless you go oil analysis often.

 

[dhdenney]

The difference is diesels have a soot problem,nature of the fuel,that gas engines do not have.The reason for longer diesel oil changes is they tend to hold more oil and have bigger filters then gas engines.Diesels need the heavier oil since the nature of compression fired engines and heavier internal parts need the thicker oil to maintain the proper lubrication that a gas engine does not require.Again you are going to see zero benefits from running it.You should never run past the factory recommended oil change intervals anyway unless you go oil analysis often.

Zero benefits? Really zero? I completely disagree. The oil has excellent cold flow properties that I guarantee beats your 5w30 dino oil. Tell me what you're using and I'll prove it. The viscosity index at temp is higher than a 30 weight which will prevent sheering and a greater film strength. The oil has very high amounts of zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP) which is the age old formula for engine protection but many oils lack. The TBN is extremely high which equates to a longer service life. I have successfully UOA'd this oil in another engine to 11,202 miles with no top ups and the same oil filter and I hadn't even really begun to deplete the TBN yet. And the wear metal rates were very very good. I probably could have tested that oil to 20K miles no problem. To say it has zero benefits is not factually based and your argument is based on requirements and not benefits. It may not require what I am throwing at it but it doesn't it make it wrong or detrimental as you seem to assert.

 

[tjkj2002]

Zero benefits? Really zero? I completely disagree. The oil has excellent cold flow properties that I guarantee beats your 5w30 dino oil. Tell me what you're using and I'll prove it. The viscosity index at temp is higher than a 30 weight which will prevent sheering and a greater film strength. The oil has very high amounts of zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP) which is the age old formula for engine protection but many oils lack. The TBN is extremely high which equates to a longer service life. I have successfully UOA'd this oil in another engine to 11,202 miles with no top ups and the same oil filter and I hadn't even really begun to deplete the TBN yet. And the wear metal rates were very very good. I probably could have tested that oil to 20K miles no problem. To say it has zero benefits is not factually based and your argument is based on requirements and not benefits. It may not require what I am throwing at it but it doesn't it make it wrong or detrimental as you seem to assert.

The cold flow rate beteen 5w30 and 5w40 is the same,both flow as 5 weight oil when cold.As far as hot performance your oil pump just will have a harder time pumping the 40 weight over 30 weight.They removed the ZDDP some time ago from oils,even diesel oil and that's why VW TDI's like you have have had major problems with cam failures.

 

[4 ace's]

ok talking to a friend of mine he say's i shouldn't use mobil 1 oil in the jeep because because it does not have any zinc in it. and it's not good for this motor but i do read alot that you guys use it alot . i have low miles on the jeep 38000 and need to do my first oil change. and i think synthetic oil would be good for the motor

 

[dhdenney]

The cold flow rate beteen 5w30 and 5w40 is the same,both flow as 5 weight oil when cold.As far as hot performance your oil pump just will have a harder time pumping the 40 weight over 30 weight.They removed the ZDDP some time ago from oils,even diesel oil and that's why VW TDI's like you have have had major problems with cam failures.

Many oils do not have ZDDP anymore yes. M1 TDT I am using still has these additives. Funny you should reference the cam failures--myself and others using the TDT are having successful runs with their TDI's with ultra low wear rates. It's those using the low SAPS garbage that are having the failures. You are very elementary in your references.

 

[dhdenney]

ok talking to a friend of mine he say's i shouldn't use mobil 1 oil in the jeep because because it does not have any zinc in it. and it's not good for this motor but i do read alot that you guys use it alot . i have low miles on the jeep 38000 and need to do my first oil change. and i think synthetic oil would be good for the motor

Depends on the type of M1 and grade. All oils are NOT created equal contrary to the belief here in this thread.

 

[Powerslave]

Syn Oils are different. MotorCycle Syn oil, believe it or not IS different. IT has a lot of the friction modifiers removed due to WET CLUTCHES. You can use Auto Synthetic in MCs, but you may get premature clutch wear with auto made Synthetic. I have yet to see it, I have used it in all my bikes, and no problems ever. Clutch DOES slip in better, no grabby HOT clutch like with DINO oil, that I noticed.

 

[Ry' N Jen]

Syn Oils are different. MotorCycle Syn oil, believe it or not IS different. IT has a lot of the friction modifiers removed due to WET CLUTCHES. You can use Auto Synthetic in MCs, but you may get premature clutch wear with auto made Synthetic. I have yet to see it, I have used it in all my bikes, and no problems ever. Clutch DOES slip in better, no grabby HOT clutch like with DINO oil, that I noticed.

Isn't synthetic oil really just recycled motor oils?
That in turned have been chemically engineered back into a "Synthetic Oil"?