Strut and Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement - 2003 Liberty

[Hannibal]

Hello everyone.

I have a stock 2WD 2003 Liberty that is in need of new front struts and also lower inner control arm bushings. These bushings are the ones that sit at the bottom of the clevis.

I'm going to throw in a set of Monroe complete strut assemblies. I figure that since I'm already there I may as well change out the bushings.

My questions are:
1) Do I need to compress the old and/or new struts?
2) Are the clevis bolts under extreme tension/load? Should I compress the springs before removing the clevis bolts? (stock setup)
3) Is there any special trick to installing/removing the inner control arm bushings? I plan on using stock MOPAR bushings.
4) What really needs to be removed on the 2WD Liberty in order to replace the struts? So far it looks like on the 2WD all I have to do is set the brakecalipers aside and possibly remove the upper control arm from the knuckle.
5) Can anyone verify that the torque specs for the front suspension on this wiki page are correct?
https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Jeep_L...6_Socket_Sizes

I've looked at several how-to threads on this site but they have conflicting info. Rather than try to hash that out, I figured that I would ask if anyone here has changed out the front struts and lower inner control arm bushings on a 2WD Liberty or if you can help me answer the questions above.

Thank you in advance for any assistance, youtube links, etc.

 

[krisP]

no need to compress springs if you have new strut assebly. Mount bolts in the engine bay under the battery tray and air box, disconnecting UCA to drop everything down will definitely make things a lot easier, have a jack under the lower control arm and jack up and down as needed. Clevis bolt wasnt under much tension when i did it, may need some racheting straps to get the clevis back into position when reinstalling.

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f202/how-install-frankenlift-*lots-pictures*-complete-29193/

thats for a lift but same concept, also no need to disconnect tie rod ends. Im sure others will jump in with more info

 

[renegade 04]

Here is a link to the service manuals.
Index of /manuals/Jeep/KJ
If you are replacing the front coil over assemblies, You mine as well get a whole new suspension with a lift like OME or Ironman.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

With the 2WD you don't have much too deal with. Remove the ball joint from the top of the steering knuckle (two whacks with a 3lb hammer), remove nuts at the top of the shock towers, loosen and remove the clevis bolt and the spring/shock assembly will fall out. Reverse to replace.

As for the lower control arm bushings....

You should take the entire control arm off the Jeep and take it to a shop and have the press in new bushings (unless you have a 2 ton press at home.) The cam bolts will need to be removed and unless you're in a salt-free zone they can be a pain to remove due to corrosion.

The clevis bushings are an even BIGGER pain in the butt. Getting them out isn't too bad but pressing new ones in is awful. My intention was to replace both but thankfully I started on the worse (passenger) side and spent 3 hours getting the old one out and pressing in the new one. Decided after I got it done that the driver's side can stay in there until the bushing is gone completely and then I'll figure out something then. I've ordered JBA coilovers and there is an alternative I'm going to employ so I don't have to deal with those bushings anymore.

Bob

 

[rjkj2005]

Hello everyone.

I have a stock 2WD 2003 Liberty that is in need of new front struts and also lower inner control arm bushings. These bushings are the ones that sit at the bottom of the clevis.

I'm going to throw in a set of Monroe complete strut assemblies. I figure that since I'm already there I may as well change out the bushings.

My questions are:
1) Do I need to compress the old and/or new struts?
2) Are the clevis bolts under extreme tension/load? Should I compress the springs before removing the clevis bolts? (stock setup)
3) Is there any special trick to installing/removing the inner control arm bushings? I plan on using stock MOPAR bushings.
4) What really needs to be removed on the 2WD Liberty in order to replace the struts? So far it looks like on the 2WD all I have to do is set the brakecalipers aside and possibly remove the upper control arm from the knuckle.
5) Can anyone verify that the torque specs for the front suspension on this wiki page are correct?
https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Jeep_L...6_Socket_Sizes

I've looked at several how-to threads on this site but they have conflicting info. Rather than try to hash that out, I figured that I would ask if anyone here has changed out the front struts and lower inner control arm bushings on a 2WD Liberty or if you can help me answer the questions above.

Thank you in advance for any assistance, youtube links, etc.

No. If you buy the complete strut assembly you won't need to compress anything. No. The clevis is not under any pressure. You will need to remove the swaybar end links. Separate the lower ball joint from lower control arm. Now you can unbolt the clevis from the LCA. Now undo the 4 nuts at the top of the strut. Assuming you have removed the air box and the battery and tray . All you have to do after removel is to transfer the clevis to the new assembly. Then install in reverse..

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[Hannibal]

Thanks for the responses. I should have mentioned that I knew that the airbox and battery tray must be removed in order to access the strut mounts in the engine compartment.

I looked at the thread with the guy in flip flops and shorts. I immediately noticed things that he had done that were not necessary/incorrect. Others agreed. I figured that the thread had bits and pieces of useful info but overall it had a sketchy feel to me. Because of this, I started my own thread on the topic.

I do have access to bushing removal tool but not a press. My plan was to use the bushing tool on the lower control arm without pulling the arm from the vehicle. My bushing tool looks exactly like this:

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I thought that with the front end jacked up, there would be enough hang to deal with the bushings. Maybe I'm too optimistic. Good thing I asked.

 

[belvedere]

I just did this job on our '06 4x4. I thought it was strange how some write-ups recommended pulling the clevis back into place with ratchet straps, and some didn't mention it. Well, the driver side fought me something fierce. Even with a ratchet strap, I still struggled. I got to the passenger side, and it all lined up with just a little persuasion from a pry bar. Why the difference? I have no idea! When it was all back together, everything looked good, and the alignment shop had no trouble aligning it to spec.

 

[tommudd]

I just did this job on our '06 4x4. I thought it was strange how some write-ups recommended pulling the clevis back into place with ratchet straps, and some didn't mention it. Well, the driver side fought me something fierce. Even with a ratchet strap, I still struggled. I got to the passenger side, and it all lined up with just a little persuasion from a pry bar. Why the difference? I have no idea! When it was all back together, everything looked good, and the alignment shop had no trouble aligning it to spec.

Left side is always harder to get into place, has to do with the shorter CV and some other things, try installing a brand new Frankenlift on the left side sometime :happy175:
There is a reason when I have someone helping that they get to do the left side!:happy175:

 

[Hannibal]

Mine is a 2WD so I have no CV joint to deal with. There is literally nothing there other than control arms, struts and the brake system.

I have a bunch of straps but I hope that I don't have to use them. From what I understand, popping in the quick-strut all in one unit is pretty simple. This will be a one man job so whatever I run into will have to be solved by me alone.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Even a spring/shock replacement project that gives a fully lifted ride is a one-man job. Once you get in there you'll see that it's pretty straightforward. As a matter of fact, I would even label the KJ's suspension downright simple - even the 4WD versions.

For the 2WD: Disconnect sway bar links and remove upper ball joint from upper control arm, remove 4 nuts on the top of the shock tower, remove lower clevis bolt, loosen clevis from bottom of shock - then remove the coilover. Reverse for installation. :waytogo:

Bob

 

[tommudd]

Mine is a 2WD so I have no CV joint to deal with. There is literally nothing there other than control arms, struts and the brake system.

I have a bunch of straps but I hope that I don't have to use them. From what I understand, popping in the quick-strut all in one unit is pretty simple. This will be a one man job so whatever I run into will have to be solved by me alone.

Nothing to it, very easy
I did my first KJ early 05, wasn't sure what I was getting into 3 hours later was done and was like thats so easy!

 

[Kal-El]

For the 2WD: Disconnect sway bar links and remove upper ball joint from upper control arm, remove 4 nuts on the top of the shock tower, remove lower clevis bolt, loosen clevis from bottom of shock - then remove the coilover. Reverse for installation. :waytogo:

Bob

That was pretty much it for me. No ratchet straps required.

 

[tommudd]

That was pretty much it for me. No ratchet straps required.

If only replacing stock suspension or doing small lift then yes no ratchet straps required, but when you do man sized ( :icon_razz: ) lifts then yes ratchet straps help

 

[Kal-El]

If only replacing stock suspension or doing small lift then yes no ratchet straps required, but when you do man sized ( :icon_razz: ) lifts then yes ratchet straps help

Roger on that. One of the old Monroes I pulled out today had the spring extended to full length because the shock bolt broke through the top spring plate. Took an extra step or two to get THAT baby out.

 

[rjkj2005]

When I did mine I separated the LCA from the spindle. Made more sence. Work out good to. Just kept it in the air with a bottle jack .
I'm removing the clevis to LCA bushing. You won't be able to press it out. At least I couldn't with the same press you have. The metal on the bushing wasn't strong enough and started to bend.
What I did was this.
Take a drill and start to drill several holes in the rubber from both sides. Use press to push metal center out of rubber. Now pound rubber out. I used a large socket and junk extention. Now I just a long crows foot pry bar to pound down the non flared side toward the center then pounder it thru till it was out. I did use the press to press in the new bushing. But before you do measure the distance from the bushing to the bushing hole. So you get it back right. If you press it to far or not enough your caster will be affected .

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[rjkj2005]

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