Spacers on a suspension lift?

[resistance]

A few months ago I got my KJ lifted about 2" using a full suspension lift. A full BDS lift with Rancho rear shocks. You know, "do it right the first time", so did I.

They told me this would happen.. Now I want what people who are already lifted want: More lift

I was planning to get front shims and rear ISO's, but not anymore. It's clear that they won't suffice. I need 1,5 or 2 inches more.

Is it ok to use polyurethane spacers on a full suspension lift? If yes, what size/brand would you recommend?

 

[Atrus]

You could use a Rusty's 3/4" spacer set and Daystar top plates and build a BDS Frankenlift.

You say you're sitting on a 2" lift - I'd check your clearance from center of wheel to fender lip to get a baseline, and then you can estimate approximately how much more you can add before you get CV troubles.

Also, need to check your UBJ-to-spring contact on full droop. I can't put anything extra in mine (926+3/8" top plate) without contact. I can't even get a clevis lift in there. Only solution there is aftermarket UCA's.

 

[resistance]

I'm standing at a little more than 20". This is what makes me think I could go a little higher.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[bigBlue]

I did a .75" spacer with OME HD's up front and Rancho Struts with the Daystar top plates and Im right at 21.25". I HAD to go with aftermarket UCA's though to keep the ball joint off the spring. Right now I only have one iso (one on top and bottom) paired with the OME rear springs and im at 20.25" in the rear

I did however run into some alignment issues with the front end.... meaning most tech's dont know how to do a proper castor/camber alignment on LCA's apparently.

 

[resistance]

If I go about 1.5" higher in my case (about 21.5" in total), shall I still need new UCA's?

That's important for me, because there are no aftermarket UCA's for the KJ here, and importing automotive parts is a real nightmare.

 

[resistance]

I'm on gas. I live in Turkiye. Kj is a rare vehicle here, so are it's parts. No aftermarket UCA here.

I imported my lift kit from the US for the same reason. I had unbelevable difficulties retrieving the kit at the customs and paid shocking amounts including taxes and customs fees.

I'm not importing any automotive parts anymore.

 

[Ry' N Jen]

I'm on gas. I live in Turkiye. Kj is a rare vehicle here, so are it's parts. No aftermarket UCA here.

I imported my lift kit from the US for the same reason. I had unbelevable difficulties retrieving the kit at the customs and paid shocking amounts including taxes and customs fees.

I'm not importing any automotive parts anymore.

Well then...

You can't have your cake and eat it too!

 

[AlexKJ]

Well then...

You can't have your cake and eat it too!

I know what the expression mean (kind of "you can't have it all"), but I don't get what are trying to imply...

I'm in the same problem with customs fees and taxes... everything end up costing about twice the original amount!

 

[twack]

you could contact Long Tall Texan and see if he will ship you a set of upper control arm extenders or possibly the design to get your own made....

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45021

 

[resistance]

I really don't want to import auto parts like UCA's. Only with polyurethane spacers, I might have a chance to get through the customs without any problems.

Now, sitting at 20", can I add 1.5" poly spacers without issues, like the ones below?
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop...2-07-1.5-Lift-Kit-Gas-And-Diesel-p-17615.html

 

[Ry' N Jen]

I know what the expression mean (kind of "you can't have it all"), but I don't get what are trying to imply...

I'm in the same problem with customs fees and taxes... everything end up costing about twice the original amount!

I know what you mean!

I own a classic British car...

I too had to import ALL my parts from the UK...
At that time the Pound was $2.64 to the Canadian Dollar!
Try three times the price for parts and accessories once you add shipping and handling!
But that's the price you pay for owning an import vehicle that you want to modify!

So at the end of the day, you either dream about the way you want your ride or you bite the bullet and pay the Piper!

As a Canadian, we too have to pay assorted duties and additional tarrifs on certain items being imported from outside of Canada...

That's why it took Jen and I three years to buy the lift kit for our KJ!

We had to save up for it.

 

[long_tall_texan]

you could contact Long Tall Texan and see if he will ship you a set of upper control arm extenders or possibly the design to get your own made....

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45021

I would be happy to share my design for extending stock UCA's. I have gone through several iterations now and know what will work and where the weak points are. I have even been thinking about how others could make them easily out of HDPE bar stock.

 

[twack]

I would be happy to share my design for extending stock UCA's. I have gone through several iterations now and know what will work and where the weak points are. I have even been thinking about how others could make them easily out of HDPE bar stock.

i figured a digital file might go across customs better then mailing a product

 

[AlexKJ]

I know what you mean!

I own a classic British car...

I too had to import ALL my parts from the UK...
At that time the Pound was $2.64 to the Canadian Dollar!
Try three times the price for parts and accessories once you add shipping and handling!
But that's the price you pay for owning an import vehicle that you want to modify!

So at the end of the day, you either dream about the way you want your ride or you bite the bullet and pay the Piper!

As a Canadian, we too have to pay assorted duties and additional tarrifs on certain items being imported from outside of Canada...

That's why it took Jen and I three years to buy the lift kit for our KJ!

We had to save up for it.

OK sir! I get you now! ... I get confused because British Leyland installed an assembly factory here in Chile in the '70s... Here, the Mini Mk II (fiberglass or steel body, 850cc, 998cc and 1275cc) aren't so expensive and you found easily all kind of parts...

Cheers!

 

[Ry' N Jen]

OK sir! I get you now! ... I get confused because British Leyland installed an assembly factory here in Chile in the '70s... Here, the Mini Mk II (fiberglass or steel body, 850cc, 998cc and 1275cc) aren't so expensive and you found easily all kind of parts...

Cheers!

The Mini Cord if I recall correctly
The fibreglass body shell with the two raised ribs running parallel from the front to back on the roof.
I always wanted one of those Mini's!

 

[resistance]

Twack, long Tall texan, thank you very much really. I'd better stick with the stock UCA anyway cause I can't rely on the people around the place I live to make such a vital part. It may cause a terrible accident.

In this case, instead of looking for .75" or 1" poly spacers, isn't it better using front shims and rear iso pads?

I've heard of 3/8" shims, are there any thicker ones like 3/4 inch (or better 1whole inch

 

[jinstall]

1.5" H&R lift, 1.25" Spidertraxs on OEM 16X7 with 245/70/16 with a SLIGHT rub.

 

[resistance]

Tony, clevis lift is already done, I had always thought I could go over 20" with the 2" lift and clevis, but I couldn't.

So all I can do is add 3/8" shims like Boiler's, right? But that is even less than 1 cm

 

[long_tall_texan]

adding 3/8" top plate spacers will give you 3/4" of lift. If you would like to make those yourself, let me know. I have a CAD file of them too.

 

[resistance]

adding 3/8" top plate spacers will give you 3/4" of lift. If you would like to make those yourself, let me know. I have a cad file of them too.

ltt, pm.