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jereosbou

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Ok moved over here from lost as i had some tourbles with the ethics of those that run lost but thats another story .

Heres where my vehicles at now....
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as it sits
Front end
rustys 2.5 inch springs
rancho struts
Jba upper control arms
3/8 inch cradle drop
1/2 inch ott spacer
rear
4 inch lifted wk springs custom control arms and tri-link rancho shocks for 6inch yj lift.
home made front and rear bumpers and rock rails full factory skids
lockright rear
245 75 r16 irok nds on moabs

works fairly well but ifs ***** and it doesnt truly do everything i want in addition to being only a matter of time till front axle breaks and bushings etc.. wear out.

so heres the plan...
Got hp dana 30 from xj
crossover steering
lockright
2 inch coilovers
1 inch forged with 2.5 inch end johnny joints
and brackets to mount the fornt axle using a radius arm like setup but with one side having and upper arm and the other not to elminate binding.
it will have a track bar
and will use the australian steering setup
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the rear ive got
hd diff cover
6inch y link relocator
6inch shocks ill move to top of axle
adjustable longer lower control arms
8inch jba springs
aa slipyoke eliminator kit
and for rubber gonna run 305 70 16 tires on the moabs with 1.5 inch spacers all around.

hoping to set at or near 6 or 7 inches lift when all is said and done due to bumper weight and spare tires etc.. but 8 will be ok too.
 

jereosbou

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ok parts...
coilovers 10 inch travel
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Wheel spacers
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jbas parts
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shocks
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steering
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diffcover and brackets
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j joints
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bushings and brackets
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JeepJeepster

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Looks like youve got it all figured out!

Anyone ever thought about doing hydro steering on a kj?

Nasty looking tow youve got there, smash it good did you?

haha, are you the wall-e guy?
 

jereosbou

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ahhh hahah thats actually my buddys toe and he had a cliff diving incident resulting in smashed toes and dislocated shoulder lol....
I will be going to 4.56 gears .... probly while im on randr just hate to bight the bullet on cost... its outrageous to charge three hundred dollars to install a 200dollar part... but i cant find anybody to show me hot to do them myself may just order them read up and do it but wont have time this leave...
no im not wall-e
oh hyrdo wouldnt be too bad to do but i plan to run it on the street so full hydros no good for that and hydro assist isnt nescessary on 33s really...
im interested in how this steering will work out... if it doesnt cut it ill go with the bronco two steering box but figure this is worth a try..
 

tjkj2002

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probly while im on randr just hate to bight the bullet on cost... its outrageous to charge three hundred dollars to install a 200dollar part... but i cant find anybody to show me hot to do them
It takes years to get the hang of setting up gears the correct way.Also the special tools needed is not cheap either.I do know how to setup gears but rather go to the dentist and have a root canal without being knumbed first,they are that much of a pain in the rear,put together,check pattern,rip apart(useing a case spreader if needed and a big press for the bearings),put back together,check pattern,rip apart,and so on and so on till you get the pattern right.Can take many,many hours if your starting from scratch and no experiance,better have a couple of extra sets of bearings just in case.I now pay someone else to deal with the headache.

Have fun with the Aussie steering,that will be a nightmare to setup and be costly.
 

jereosbou

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yeah ive heard that over and over on gears but if another person can do it so can i... and itd be worth it just to have the skill.

im not sure whats complicated about it... ive got the tubing and steel to do it may change it to a heim instead of tre like theyve got but other then that its straight forward... or seems to be to me... but maybe ill find out when i start... i looked at my old rack when i took it out last time and didnt see any major difficulties to it...
 

tjkj2002

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yeah ive heard that over and over on gears but if another person can do it so can i... and itd be worth it just to have the skill.

im not sure whats complicated about it... ive got the tubing and steel to do it may change it to a heim instead of tre like theyve got but other then that its straight forward... or seems to be to me... but maybe ill find out when i start... i looked at my old rack when i took it out last time and didnt see any major difficulties to it...
What size tubing are you using for the steering? I'm using 1 3/8"x0.280" walled DOM for my steering and drag links,24' stick was $200 before steel really jumped:eek:,and 1 ton GM TRE's.If your going with the Aussie steering you will need to keep the inner tierod boots or your rack will not live long.
 

jereosbou

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i already have a crossover steering setup... the bent jig for the rack ive got a pice of 1 1/4 solid bar stock im gonna bend up and then gusset to make and was thinking already about the boots... for just that reason... the only tricky part is getting the right sized bolt to fit in where the outer tre usually connect... but what i may do is get the local machine shop to cut me some out i know the guy so shouldnt be too bad and i can get a longer straight end put on it with a groove in the bottom keyed to the part on the end which sleeves the rack... not sur eif this makes sense but it would help keep everything aligned front to rear relieving some stress on the recentering spring ... i need to draw this up to make it clearer... will do it in the morning when i wake up...then instead of tre for conection of the drag link to rack ill use the heim in a double sheer i think.... plus it simplifies as i wont need to ream the hole for the tre...
 

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