Sea Sick

[EvilSnipa]

That's what I tossed In my 02 liberty. Monroe quick struts and moog everything else. It's only a 2wd so wasn't going for anything special. I got them for 80$ apc off Amazon free shipping with prime. But the old ones were so worn these raised it at least an inch.

 

[Adam Roby]

Everytime I see this post I have to laugh because I think of one of my favorite singers/performers, .....Seasick Steve!

I never heard of him before, just listening now.
Had my doubts when I saw I think a hub cap with a broom stick and 3 strings... but damn it sounds great. Too funny, gonna be listening to this for a while.

 

[Adam Roby]

I mentioned that I had the rear upper control arm changed last fall, it cost me a pretty penny to have done as well. Well, I am looking at the installation and am now wondering if it was even done right.

The center of the boomerang seems OK from what I can tell.

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But to me it looks like the sides of the boomerang do not seat right against the frame of the truck. Does anyone have pictures of theirs so I can compare?

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Don't have a buddy with me now to check the lower arms... shocks are still good. I swapped them out with some aftermarkets that seem less resistance than what was there (got a deal so figured I'd give them a try). Will probably put back the originals tomorrow after I do a test drive, too late now.... I'm tired.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Those bushings on the sides of the boomerang are fine - there is a space between the frame of the boomerang and the chassis mount that is taken up by the rubber in the center of the bushing. There is a steel sleeve that runs through the center of the bushing that fills the space between the upper and lower frame mounts.

Bob

 

[tommudd]

Bushings look good although you can also tell that the springs are sagged since it appears that the tri-link is lower in front mounts than the rear ( could be picture angle of course ) but looks like it

Here I am back on Seasick Steves post :happy175:

 

[Adam Roby]

The truck was also jacked when I took these pictures, which may have influenced the angles... I simply do not know enough to tell you.

 

[Adam Roby]

So here is what I have understood to be the best option for someone not wanting a lift but still wanting an improved ride.
I can't seem to find anyone better than JeepinByAl.com to ship to Canada so I am doing the conversion to CAD in my calcs.


Essex Distributors - Bilstein Shock Absorbers

B6 4600 Series Front (24-139168) - 2 pcs - $292.60 CAD (free shipping)
B6 4600 Series Rear (24-139175) - 2 pcs - $222.30 CAD (free shipping)


JeepinByAl

OME 2925 Front Coil Springs - 1 set - ($167.20 each + $43.93 shipping) ~= $274.27 CAD
OME 2947 Rear Coil Springs - 1 set - ($167.20 each + $43.93 shipping) ~= $274.27 CAD


If I order the parts, one line at a time, I am looking at $222.30 to $274.27 with each order plus tax. Probably talking about 4 months to get all the parts. Well, probably by the beginning of July.

In the end it will be around $1063.44 before tax and without installation.
Are there any parts that I will need to swap, or is that all I need if I keep my current front top plate etc?
(Keep in mind I am not looking for any extra lift, other than what these coils might give me.)
Do the struts have a bearing plate up top? Is it recommended to swap out at this time? I would hate to do all this work just to cheap out, but at the same time if they stay good then I am already looking at a lot of money so...

On a more positive note, we had a supper last night for my nephew and I found out that my brother-in-law has one of those large coil compressors in his garage. He used to do a lot of work from home, has a really big garage with many tools. I am not sure if he would charge me for his help, but I am hoping to show up one morning with all my parts and big smile, maybe a box of Tim Horton's coffee and ask... "you busy?".

 

[Adam Roby]

Question about all these lift kits... all need some parts of your existing strut (top plate and maybe something else). Can I just buy these?

I want to make the install as easy as possible. If I can order the parts (say the OME kit) and with the extra bits to make my own "quick strut", the I can work on making the quick strut one weekend, taking my time and then do the install another day and not feel rushed.

1) How many extra parts are needed from the existing setup?
2) Can I order just these parts?

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Question about all these lift kits... all need some parts of your existing strut (top plate and maybe something else). Can I just buy these?

I want to make the install as easy as possible. If I can order the parts (say the OME kit) and with the extra bits to make my own "quick strut", the I can work on making the quick strut one weekend, taking my time and then do the install another day and not feel rushed.

1) How many extra parts are needed from the existing setup?
2) Can I order just these parts?

You could buy the components that make up the coilover system but the parts generally don't wear out. Having a local shop take the old ones apart and using the components to assemble the new coilovers is routine for them. When I did my new OME suspension I took the front apart and borrowed a buddy's car to run the old coilovers and new sprints/shocks to the shop. Left it all there, went back home and replaced the rear springs and shocks, went back to the shop in my bud's car and picked up the new coilovers, installed them, then took my Jeep back to the shop so they could do the alignment.

They were fine doing the new front coilovers for a few bucks with the understanding I was bringing the KJ in for an alignment. They figured I was keeping one of their junior techs busy with the coilovers while their alignment specialist would get to put his experience to work on a rig he doesn't get to see very often - a lifted Liberty.

Worked out well for all of us

Bob

 

[Adam Roby]

My cousin is an off-road enthusiast and wheels on the weekend with a group of guys. One wrenched at Chrysler for 12 years and left to open his own shop with his brother. I decided to pass by and have a talk with them this morning. Super nice guys, stopped what they were working on and asked me to bring my truck in on the lift. They checked every bushing and suspension part, then did a road test, then back on the lift for a final inspection. They confirmed the rear upper control arm was installed right. When on the lift there was no play in the ball joints but once sitting on the ground you could hear a distinct knock on both sides in front. They recommended I start with that and go from there, they will send me an estimate soon. The one that worked at Chrysler said the lower front control arm bushings were fused to the bolt, which is common apparently for these trucks. The problem is when you want to do the alignment you need those to be loose. He said they don't just sell the bushings, at least they didn't back when he worked at Chrysler so he will check the aftermarkets and see. He said if I have to buy new control arms to forget about a lift because they will cost $1200 to replace. I just checked on RockAuto for fun and each one is listed at $580 USD!!

Anyone every change just the just the bushings on the front lower control arms before?

 

[dude1116]

My cousin is an off-road enthusiast and wheels on the weekend with a group of guys. One wrenched at Chrysler for 12 years and left to open his own shop with his brother. I decided to pass by and have a talk with them this morning. Super nice guys, stopped what they were working on and asked me to bring my truck in on the lift. They checked every bushing and suspension part, then did a road test, then back on the lift for a final inspection. They confirmed the rear upper control arm was installed right. When on the lift there was no play in the ball joints but once sitting on the ground you could hear a distinct knock on both sides in front. They recommended I start with that and go from there, they will send me an estimate soon. The one that worked at Chrysler said the lower front control arm bushings were fused to the bolt, which is common apparently for these trucks. The problem is when you want to do the alignment you need those to be loose. He said they don't just sell the bushings, at least they didn't back when he worked at Chrysler so he will check the aftermarkets and see. He said if I have to buy new control arms to forget about a lift because they will cost $1200 to replace. I just checked on RockAuto for fun and each one is listed at $580 USD!!

Anyone every change just the just the bushings on the front lower control arms before?

Those bolts do not have to be loosened to align the truck. Just the cam bolts (left and right, front and back). They didn't check the steering rack at all?

I don't know. Doesn't sound like they know too much about these Jeeps at all. Maybe older ones...but not these.

 

[Adam Roby]

I may also be quoting what he said wrong, I don't really know much yet, but I am learning as I go. That is what I understood from them though...

 

[dude1116]

I may also be quoting what he said wrong, I don't really know much yet, but I am learning as I go. That is what I understood from them though...

Sorry I'm mistaken. The cam bolts do go through the lower control arm bushings. (Sorry must be sleeping) But i've never heard of them freezing to the bushing. They're tough to crack with winter salt rust but can be done. And if the bolt breaks, they're not expensive to replace.

 

[Adam Roby]

He removed the nut, then shined a flashlight on the busing and using a key he rotated the bolt and I could see the busing moving with the bolt. Maybe he meant removing the bolt could cause the busing to tear and then I would need a new control arm. If he worked for Chrysler, their policy would have been to replace the entire control arm and not just the bushing. I will see what he finds out when he does his research. I do see others changing them with ones meant for different vehicles or applications... just not sure a garage would do that since they need to give some sort of warranty.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

I had the lower control arm bushings replaced last Fall - I bought the bushings for about $60 and the local shop replaced them for $90. Total of $150 for new lower control arm bushings.

There are definitely aftermarket bushings available - I bought Moogs.

EDIT: Here are the ones I bought

Bob

 

[Adam Roby]

Damn, I was quoted $337 for each rear upper control arm for their "premium" version (10-year), and if I want to cheap ones (5-year) cost $158 each. They also need 2.6 hours to replace.

Really, it is just the ball joint that is starting to make some noise.
I guess most just swap the entire arm, but these sounds pricey.
RockAuto's prices range from $40 to $115 CAD. Even with tax and shipping the most expensive ones at RockAuto come out cheaper than the garage (I guess they have a mark up on them).

Questions:

- If it takes a garage 2.6 hours to swap, I guess it can't be an easy job... or is it not that bad?
- Can you just swap out the ball joint?
- Are the ones from RockAuto any worse/better than what Napa will send the garage?
- Can noisy ball joints (recently started) cause the sea sick feeling at all?

 

[HoosierJeeper]

Not a bad job, but I wouldn't call it easy if you haven't been under the KJ much. For a first timer, it'll take a half day or so. Have to replace the whole arm, the ball joint is one piece with the arm. Not sure about the quality, I have JBA ones with replaceable ball joints.

Really wouldn't change the ride much, more so sloppy handling and clunking over bumps.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Damn, I was quoted $337 for each rear upper control arm for their "premium" version (10-year), and if I want to cheap ones (5-year) cost $158 each. They also need 2.6 hours to replace.

Really, it is just the ball joint that is starting to make some noise.
I guess most just swap the entire arm, but these sounds pricey.
RockAuto's prices range from $40 to $115 CAD. Even with tax and shipping the most expensive ones at RockAuto come out cheaper than the garage (I guess they have a mark up on them).

Questions:

- If it takes a garage 2.6 hours to swap, I guess it can't be an easy job... or is it not that bad?
- Can you just swap out the ball joint?
- Are the ones from RockAuto any worse/better than what Napa will send the garage?
- Can noisy ball joints (recently started) cause the sea sick feeling at all?

Time out...

If you're talking about the REAR upper control arm, there is only one not two. The rear upper arm - frequently called the boomerang around here due to it's shape - is replaced as one unit. The ball joint is sold separately but the steel of the boomerang is so thin that it just deforms when the press starts applying pressure to remove the old ball joint.

Your best bet is to replace the rear boomerang with what your shop called the "premium" version (probably because it's a Mopar part.) The other aftermarket parts fail quickly and you're right back to replacing it again. So the price your shop quoted for the REAR boomerang is about right. Again, there's only one upper control arm in the rear. There are TWO lower rear control arms however.

So those prices I quoted above were for the FRONT lower control arm bushings. The FRONT upper control arm and ball joint are one unit from the factory and must be replaced as a unit. The JBA upper control arms ("A-arms") have replacable ball joints.

Hope this straightens things out a bit for ya

Bob

 

[Adam Roby]

So sorry... I am dyslexic when I type...

I was quoted $337 for each FRONT upper control arm... damn, I checked and double checked to make sure I got the upper and lower straight, instead messed up the front and rear.

 

[tommudd]

So sorry... I am dyslexic when I type...

I was quoted $337 for each FRONT upper control arm... damn, I checked and double checked to make sure I got the upper and lower straight, instead messed up the front and rear.

337 each ?? :happy175:
Heck NAPA has the front uppers for 84.60 each
JeepinByAl has them for 395.,........... for the pair !!!