Replace BOTH rear upper control arms?

[TwoBobsKJ]

My new Mopar UCA was delivered yesterday (found it online for $312-not bad!), and I will be installing it this weekend. My only question is whether I should put Loctite or anti-seize on the bolts when installing the new one. Suggestions?

Nope, not necessary for either Loctite or anti-seize.

There IS Loctite on the bolts that hold the balljoint fitting to the differential - there are 3, 22mm bolts there that you shouldn't have to remove. The bolt holding the balljoint in place will probably be a bit stubborn as the threads are exposed to the elements. The outer 15mm bolts go up into the body and don't need Loctite either. And the two holding the parking brake cables will come right out and can't be 'Loctite-d' anyway.

Let us know how the project came out for you!

Bob

 

[resipsa]

Many thanks, Bob. I was just out there crawling around under my Libby trying to get the lay of the land. I gave each of the bolts a shot of PB Blaster and will let them soak for a while before I get started. I'm hoping that the project goes relatively quickly. I was planning to take some pictures along the way. I might write up a HOW TO if there's any interest, even though it's a relatively easy project.

Tim

Nope, not necessary for either Loctite or anti-seize.

There IS Loctite on the bolts that hold the balljoint fitting to the differential - there are 3, 22mm bolts there that you shouldn't have to remove. The bolt holding the balljoint in place will probably be a bit stubborn as the threads are exposed to the elements. The outer 15mm bolts go up into the body and don't need Loctite either. And the two holding the parking brake cables will come right out and can't be 'Loctite-d' anyway.

Let us know how the project came out for you!

Bob

 

[mikeandamy]

I just had my 03 at the mechanic for a full suspension inspection. It turns out the terrific squealing I've been getting with every little movement is a rotted out upper control arm in the back right. It needs to be replaced (he quoted me $450). The left side seems solid, but I'm at 144K miles. Should I just bite the bullet and replace both sides? Will doing so also improve rear handling?

And here's the question my wife doesn't want me to ask: Can I tackle this myself? I change all my own fluids, do my own brake jobs (including rotors), and replaced the rear CV joint on my front drive shaft.

Thanks!

my ******* mechanic (who ended up stealing the change from my ashtray a sweatshirt that i needed to return and my gps) quoted me 450 for that "subframe" as he called it. I said why don't you just replace the worn out bushings and he said they don't sell just the bushings, you have to buy the whole thing. :****::****::****:

I filed a police report against him and never went back.
That's how I became a do-it-yourselfer.

So yes it's easy to do. I went the bushings and balljoint route took about an hour and a half total

 

[resipsa]

I have run into a bit of a jam and could use some advice. I got the corner bolts out without any problem, but the bolt at the ball joint has been a pain in my @$$.

Here's how I have things set up: I have the Jeep up on jack stands under the frame. I also jacked up the rear axle, and have a second set of jack stands under that.

I got the nut off the end of the ball-joint bolt without much difficulty, but the bolt itself has been a nightmare. First, the head of the bolt was a little round when I started to go at it, and then I ended up rounding it even more. The Craftsman Bolt-Out I picked up at Sears tonight can't seem to get any purchase on the head (the next smaller adapter one won't fit on the bolt head). So even though the nut is off, the bolt is still in the bracket and it won't budge.

I tried removing the old tri-link by pushing the ball joint up out of the bracket, but it won't let go. I then tried using a piece of wood with my jack to push the ball joint up out of the bracket, but I still won't let go! With the nut already off the end of the bolt, I don't know where the tension is coming from.

My question is this: Are the bolt holes on the ball-joint bracket threaded?? Based on the replacement bolt I got from the dealer, it doesn't look like they would be. But when I tried pounding the old bolt from the nut side, it doesn't go anywhere.

 

[Porkchop]

Take the bolt out of.the bracket for the ball joint stud after taking out the bolt there is a slit in the bracket where the ball joint stud slides into widened that slit by putting a wedge in it the stud for the ball joint will then slide up and out. Hope this helps you understand how it works. Make sure you take out the bolts in the front of the y link first as it is possible the ball joint is rusted in and doesn't want to swivel much.

 

[tommudd]

remove the whole bracket on the rear diff ( 3 bolts) and that will help since its so rusted
bolt MUST be removed to get the bolt out since the ball joint has a concave area that the bolt passes through. NO WAY to remove it without the bolt being removed
I have had a couple that I had to beat the heck out of to get removed , esp. the ones where they are in a lot of salt and never wash up underneath

 

[rockymountain]

I took the balljoint bolt out first before the front two and used the weight of the rear end to pull the balljoint stud out. Yours seems worse than what mine was. Use some PB blaster and a bigger hammer to pound the bolt out. I used a crowbar to pry the slit in the flange to make sure the flange was free and wasn't seized to the balljoint stud as well.

 

[resipsa]

Thanks guys. This morning, after a good night's sleep, I tried another angle and managed to get the bolt pounded out. But I'm still trying to free the ball joint from the bracket (the PB Blaster is soaking at the moment) as it is frozen solid.

 

[resipsa]

Okay, now I'm looking for suggestions on persuading the ball joint out of the bracket. PB Blaster and my little sledge aren't doing it. I also tried jacking the frame up high, raising the rear diff, and then lowering the diff quickly to use its weight to break the stem free. No dice.

Oh, and far as prying it the bracket open goes, the best I can do for a pry bar (I don't have small one) is to pry from both sides with a moderately sized flathead screwdriver.

 

[tommudd]

Have you removed it from the diff?
If not remove it and get it out where you can work on it easily
Be careful prying too much on the bracket.

 

[k99jk99j]

i removed the bolt and nut from ball joint bracket. then took a 2x4 and jacked the 2x4 up with a floor jack under the upper control arm. comes out in a minute!