Recommend Me Some Fluids

[profdlp]

I am getting ambitious and looking to replace some of the fluids in my 57,000-mile Jeep. I would like some recommendations for the best stuff to use for the following:

Gear Oil - Front & Rear <--- Done!

Had it done by a lube place when I first got it nearly two years ago. They flushed my radiator at the same time and I'm pretty sure they fibbed about the coolant being HOAT. (Just went through the new water pump jolliness two weeks ago.) Needless to say, I'm not too sure I trust whatever they stuck in my differentials either.

Transfer Case Fluid <--- Done!

Doubt it's been done. What's the best stuff to use?

Power Steering Fluid <--- Done!

Another one I doubt has ever been done. I plan to do the vampire switch method where I suck out as much as I can several times and replace it, hopefully leading to a virtually complete changeover by the time I've been through a few rounds.

Transmission Fluid

Should I even try this on my own? Talk me into (or out of) it.

Brake Fluid

Is this even doable without a full bleed, etc.? It's one thing if I mess something up and it doesn't run. (Bad.) Entirely another thing if it's running and won't stop. (Worse.) My gut instinct is to leave this one to the pros, but that's what I said about the radiator, too...

Anything Else?

What am I leaving out that I could be doing?

Edit - Added to the list:

PCV Valve <--- Done!
Clean throttle body <--- Done!
Clean IAC <--- Done!
Brake inspection
Clean the cabin and in-cabin air filter.
Check idler pulleys
Paint the undercarriage

In short, what fluids would you guys recommend for my 2007 Liberty to keep it running right? I'd rather do preventive maintenance than breakdown maintenance any day. Any helpful tips for pre-flush cleaning additives, or post-flush additives etc., would be great. Any tips on doing it the right way would be greatly appreciated.

wavey.gif

 

[uss2defiant]

Gear oil:

lucas oil. use dino only.
85w-140 for off road and towing. 80w-90 otherwise.
If you have trac-lok at the rear, you'll need the additive, mopar 04318060ab.

TF case:
ATF+4. Any brand since they're all licensed.

PS:
ATF+4. use turkey baster technique and cycle.

Transmission:
I'm still on the fence but I'm leaning towards doing this at the dealership for a full flush and filter change. Hopefully they'll do it even though I no longer have a record of a previous flush.

Brake fluid:
This is pretty easy to do. similarly use turkey baster to remove oil fluid out. Dot 3 or dot 4. I made my own pressure bleeder since I have ABS and didn't have any DIY means of cycling the solenoid.
Here's a good vid of what to do in general.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1NvtUwfRJc


Other things:
1. pcv valve
2. clean throttle body
3. clean IAC
4. check spark plugs
5. brake inspection
6. clean the cabin and in-cabin air filter.
7. intake air filter
8. check idler pulleys
9. paint the undercarriage

 

[profdlp]

I'm keeping a list of what has been recommended- thanks!

Other things:

1. pcv valve
On the list - now.

2. clean throttle body
On the list - now.

3. clean IAC
On the list - now.

4. check spark plugs
Replaced them about 4,000 miles ago.

5. brake inspection
I don't even know what to look for...I will study up on it.

6. clean the cabin and in-cabin air filter.
You mean the trick of adding a filter under the wiper blade housing? I don't know of any other except the intake grill, which I am too blind to find. (Looked twice...) :icon_redface:

7. intake air filter
Done last summer and recently checked.

8. check idler pulleys
Inspected during my water pump replacement.

9. paint the undercarriage
Has been on the list. I may pop for the dough and get it Ziebarted, unless someone talks me out of it. I've been delaying due to money, so maybe at this point a cheap home job would be better than nothing.

Thanks for the great ideas! :favorites13:

 

[uss2defiant]

Brake inspection:
Check the pads, caliper and rotors.
I think pads can go till 3mm. Make sure calipers aren't sticking.

Cabin filter:
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f293/how-cabin-air-filter-27186/
which is outside.
according to tjkj2000 the in cabin filter is an option for '08+ KK's.

A few other suggestions:
1.if you're very adventurous, there's always the gas filter.
2.One thing I added to my KJ was those static tints on the passenger and trunk side windows.
3.Grease door hinges and catches(?)
4.Clean and re-grease sun roof rails. I used Finishline teflon grease.
5.since you are in the rust belt, silicone spray anything exposed. prevent windows from being frozen stuck too if sprayed on the weather stripping/guides.

 

[LibertyTC]

Brian excellent list.
Besides the above mentioned at 60 k miles you want to inspect the OEM EPDM belt carefully. Dont want it to go ker snap in the middle on no where. Remove it, and inspect for any cracks, and side wear. If the grooves seem well worn or thin, it may be time to replace the belt. While the belt is off inspect the Tensioner and associated pulleys for any side to side movement, and spin them, if not smooth or any bearing noise present, replace it with a Gates tensioner assembly.
When the Jeep was running my belt had a slight wobble at top pulley and was not as tight as it should have been, as the spring in the OEM tensioner also had weakened.
With the new belt/tensioner now installed it was obvious, I no longer could easily push in the side of the belt , it was now tight as a drum.

 

[belvedere]

Well, I'm gonna have to disagree with uss2: I don't like Lucas products, and I do like synthetics. I run 75W90 syn in the diffs on ours, and it works great. As for the trans, I like to do a pan drop/filter replacement. It is not difficult, just a little messy. IIRC, there is one pan bolt that requires either Loctite or sealant upon assembly...hopefully someone can chime in with details. Yes, ATF+4 is the only stuff to use. Any licensed brand is fine: Licensed ATF+4 Brands | Chrysler

 

[Jo6pak]

I can't believe nobody mentioned blinker fluid:shrug:

I use only semi-synthetic ACME high performance signal lubricant. Just remember to flush the entire system, and bleed the lines or you will get vapor lock and you bulbs will explode.

:gr_grin:

 

[ltd02]

I can't believe nobody mentioned blinker fluid:shrug:

I use only semi-synthetic ACME high performance signal lubricant. Just remember to flush the entire system, and bleed the lines or you will get vapor lock and you bulbs will explode.

:gr_grin:

If you use your hazards often, I'd recommend a shorter fluid change interval or full synthetic. :happy175:

 

[ftaa]

If you use your hazards often, I'd recommend a shorter fluid change interval or full synthetic. :happy175:

you'se are all wrong... its a jeep ... all fluids it needs comes from a gas pump !

 

[renegade 04]

I had ziebart undercoat my libby and they did a good job, but before you take it in you should clean the undercarriage well because they do not do a good job cleaning it.

 

[tommudd]

To undercoat a used vehicle it has to be rust free underneath and body panels
If not a lot of extra work needs to be done before you take it in to make sure it does its job
For me I sand everything down underneath if buying a used one and then paint everything , mines still rust free underneath after 12 years in Ohio, even brake lines/ suspension etc

Oh in the diffs, only dino , synthetic doesn't work or last as well

 

[uss2defiant]

here's the thread regarding dino vs synthetic gear oil

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/synthetic-vs-dino-gear-oil-48352/

Your jeep, your money, your choice.

 

[ltd02]

here's the thread regarding dino vs synthetic gear oil

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/synthetic-vs-dino-gear-oil-48352/

Your jeep, your money, your choice.

That thread changed me. I always used dino but had done one synthetic change in my KJ before reading that back then and the next change went with the Lucas. Now I use it in all three of my 4x4/awd vehicles.

 

[belvedere]

UOAs on gear lube are kinda rare, but here's an example with a syn: Amsoil 75w90, 30K, 04 Chevy Tahoe | Gear & Transmission Used/Virgin Oil Analysis | Bob Is The Oil Guy

As you can see, the lab commented that wear metals were below average. Not sure where this internet myth started about syn gear oil being bad, but it's a myth that doesn't seem to want to die. I'd ask for some UOA proof from those perpetuating this old wive's tale.

 

[tommudd]

and everything from Bob The Oil Guy is suppose to be right?
:shrug::happy175::icon_lol:

 

[CzarKJ]

UOAs on gear lube are kinda rare, but here's an example with a syn: Amsoil 75w90, 30K, 04 Chevy Tahoe | Gear & Transmission Used/Virgin Oil Analysis | Bob Is The Oil Guy

As you can see, the lab commented that wear metals were below average. Not sure where this internet myth started about syn gear oil being bad, but it's a myth that doesn't seem to want to die. I'd ask for some UOA proof from those perpetuating this old wive's tale.

I don't think this is about synth being bad. In fact I think it works great as engine oil. Just in this particular application it's properties don't seem to work as effectively.

 

[ltd02]

I'm not sure what a UOA (used oil analysis) would tell you in this case unless it detected pieces of your gears in the oil. Do the wear metal equate to this? To me this is a different issue. Really need a side by side analysis of the wear on the diff gears with dino and synth.

 

[uss2defiant]

quote from that thread

The properties that make synthetic oils better in a forced oiled system like a engine or trans is not what you want in a splash oiled system that your diffs use.Synthetic gear oil does not transfer heat like dino gear oil can,hence the shorter OCI's for diffs using synthetic.Sure dino gear oil thicker,and will reduce mpg's by a very small amount,but it sticks to the gears and bearings much better providing better lubrication.Almost every aftermarket diff company only recommends dino gear oils for there diffs.

 

[profdlp]

My chief reasons for wanting to do the gear oil are these:

1) I don't know what they put in it when it was done in September of 2013.
2) With the extreme cold we have been having here the Jeep seems sluggish. The engine seems fine, so I'm think the gear boxes are meeting too much resistance.
3) I plan to do it way more often than needed and would like to be sure I know how. My theory on parts wear is that 90% of the wear happens on the last 20% of the life of the fluid. I plan to not get to that 20% usable life left point. It's kind of like in the gym, most injuries occur on either your first rep or at the end of a set when you are getting tired. I don't want any tired oil in my Jeep.

It'll probably be a week or two before I dive into the fluid changes. In the meantime, the PVC valves, etc., are fair game. I'm in VA right now and it's conceivable that we could see 50F degree weather by mid-March, which would make crawling around on the ground much more enjoyable.

I bought one of these at Harbor Freight last night to make the fluid changes a little easier. I'll let you know how it works. In the meantime, keep those suggestions coming. My successful water pump transplant two weeks ago has got me pumped to do more.

$7 worth of fun:

Multi-Use Transfer Pump

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[belvedere]

Like someone said earlier, everyone has a choice for their own vehicle. I was simply providing something besides internet folk lore. If the syn was inferior, wouldn't the wear metals be high? If someone can provide some actual credible evidence, I'd love to see it. Syn lubes (including gear oils) have worked great for me in many vehicles over the years.