Rear Recovery Shackle Installed

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LibertyTC

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Thanks to Ryan and his Dremel tool we were able to drill out in preparation for the large 7/8"shackle!
That is some tough metal to cut through.:893Chainsaw-Smilie-
Also Ryan gave me the recovery strap as well...:party52:
I finally have a decent recovery set up!:icon_smile:
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Dinner was great too! Yummy Roast beef all the fixings & Apple Pie!:Caffeine:
Thank You Ryan & Jen!
 

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LibertyFever

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I'll give you points for creativity but I wouldn't "tug" on that if I were you but it might do for a pull. You're better off spending $29.99 for a proper receiver recovery hitch.
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There's not a lot of steel holding your D-link to the vehicle.
 

DirtyKK

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i agree with LibertyFever. if anything you could just stick a recovery strap end into your hitch and then just use the hitch pin.
 
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LibertyTC

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I mainly use the hitch for pulling the boat. There was so much slack and clunking going on in the receiver that I welded it in place, so no swapping it out now.
Was a compromise to end any noise while pulling.
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Are you worried the shackle bolt is going to pull through the hole?
I am going to consider using some washers as spacers on the bolt, to center the shackle, and take out the slack.
 

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LibertyFever

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I mainly use the hitch for pulling the boat. There was so much slack and clunking going on in the receiver that I welded it in place, so no swapping it out now.
Was a compromise to end any noise while pulling.
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I like the idea of eliminating the rattle of a poor fitting hitch but I don't like the permanency of your solution. This sounds like a better idea for eliminating hitch rattle;
Roadmaster Quiet Hitch
But heck, I could make myself one of these for less than $24.

sorry for Hi-jacking your thread...
 

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tommudd

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Never had a loaded trailer ( well loaded correctly ) rattle the hitch.
Welding it solid is one way to do it , but what if you want to do a different drop? Or even remove it so it doesn't dig in the dirt/ rocks when 4 wheeling? Guess its too late now, another thought will your ball now fit right since you have made the hole larger in the hitch?
 

TAHOE

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I don't understand what some of you have issue with using the hitch as a pull point with the shackle in it. It appears to be the same size as the other recovery hitch posted. Not to mention, most receivers are rated at minimum of 10K pull rating. If anything, the weak link an any of the set ups would be the 5/8 hitch pin which is also used on any slide in receiver recovery hitch. Even if the receiver wasn't welded, I see no issues in pulling with that hitch.
Tom, I did have one on one of my vehicle, even with a load, it would rattle like crazy, receiver was a little on big side, had some slop no matter what hitch I slid in.
 

J-Thompson

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wow
in a world of bad ideas ,where does 1 start
the 1 glaring problem is wheelin
when ,not if, you bottom out on the hitch it will bend
when it bends it is useless and hope that the bend is only on the
insert and not the receiver
consider this the receiver on my TJ is bent up
I have never inserted a hitch into it and I have never yanked it while pulling
I did bottom out more than once on more than 1 big ledge
and I know that my TJ has a much much better depart angle than 99.9% of all KJ's
on the road ,only the SFA'ed KJ have a better depart angle
so yeah bad idea
or if you get rear ended?
back into a thing?
 

tommudd

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I guess my main concern was like Mr. Thompsons, the what if part and the dragging off road
But to the 99.9% of all KJs only the SFA's are better:shrug:
My hitch is at least 4 plus inches higher than a stock KJ hitch so guess I am included as well in that
stock height hitch
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My hitch now:happy175:
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J-Thompson

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I guess my main concern was like Mr. Thompsons, the what if part and the dragging off road
But to the 99.9% of all KJs only the SFA's are better:shrug:
My hitch is at least 4 plus inches higher than a stock KJ hitch so guess I am included as well in that

depart angle of a KJ compared to a 3" Lifted TJ
yeah your hitch will hit
considering that sometimes my spare tire hits
and my hitch is probably over 4" higher than a stock KJ
 

tommudd

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Over stock KJ mine now would be more like 8 inches higher then
have to run a 4 inch drop even to come close to pulling a trailer level :happy175:
 

LibertyTC

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What can I say, It really is not permanent.
I could replace this hitch easily, and find one with a rubber insert for the receiver, to stop the rattles, and start over again. (Hidden Hitch makes one) I learned this after I welded it tight. I could even replace it with another type like Toms.
One thing I will say, welding stopped all noise and eliminated the worry about bending or breaking the receiver pin. My hitch is now solid & pulls awesome.
Thanks Tahoe for your confidence in the shackle set up. I also think it will work fine.
I am going to do a test of this set up by pulling Ryan's rig, once my lift is done.
I do agree on serious wheeling, for departures from the hole, you can easily hit back there. Most of the off-roading I will do will mainly be known service roads for camping etc.
 

J-Thompson

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Over stock KJ mine now would be more like 8 inches higher then
have to run a 4 inch drop even to come close to pulling a trailer level :happy175:

Tom
I read your post as if you are trying to say that your KJ has a better
departure angle than a TJ with 3" of lift and 33" tall tires
if this be the case I would have to call B.S.
I would also be inclined ,in the case where your KJ has a better departure angle than said TJ, to point out that to get to the point where having a break over angle this good would also require an equally good approach and break over
which is also highly unlikely given the wheel base of a KJ
and the distance from the bottom of the front tire to the end of the bumper
is greater than those of a TJ

you could have a 90* departure angle of you have 30* break over you will bottom out long before the departure angle will help
also keep in mind that dragging the rear of a Jeep is easy dragging the entire thing ,break over angle, not so much
 

tommudd

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Tom
I read your post as if you are trying to say that your KJ has a better
departure angle than a TJ with 3" of lift and 33" tall tires
if this be the case I would have to call B.S.
I would also be inclined ,in the case where your KJ has a better departure angle than said TJ, to point out that to get to the point where having a break over angle this good would also require an equally good approach and break over
which is also highly unlikely given the wheel base of a KJ
and the distance from the bottom of the front tire to the end of the bumper
is greater than those of a TJ

you could have a 90* departure angle of you have 30* break over you will bottom out long before the departure angle will help
also keep in mind that dragging the rear of a Jeep is easy dragging the entire thing ,break over angle, not so much

You know its all BS
I was talking about mine -vs- stock KJs which is what you mentioned
everyone knows you have the baddest TJ to ever hit a trail
and oh 2000 times better than any KJ right
so ....:Bye:
 

J-Thompson

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You know its all BS
I was talking about mine -vs- stock KJs which is what you mentioned
everyone knows you have the baddest TJ to ever hit a trail
and oh 2000 times better than any KJ right
so ....:Bye:

No I don't know it all just a little about a lot
I was not talking about my Jeep as it has modifications that most TJ's will not and KJ's
simply can not have
No I was talking about 90% of the lifted TJ's
on the road with a lift and 33's
To compare th departure angle of a KJ to my TJ would be very unfair
Considering that I am picking up a modified Kilby skid with a 1" cut this makes it 2+" over stock but requires a 1.25" body lift
which the KJ simply can not do
 

TAHOE

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I'm not starting a peeing match, but how in the world are you bending a hitch by wheeling? My hitch is rated @ 10K #'s, it's thicker than the frame, and I figure the frame will bend way before the hitch/receiver. I've seen trucks get rearended and the frame is all twisted, but nothing visually is wrong with the hitch, guess it's the way yours is made. I would only worry about a weld breaking vs bending. I run my hitch in 99% of the time....maybe people think twice about tail gating when they see that big ole thing hanging back there.
Only problem I see is like stated the departure angle, possibility of hangups.
 

LibertyTC

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I have thought about making a solid 4 inch steel step bar of the back of the hitch.
Then if you rear end the KJ it will be too bad for them.

I managed to find some washers, but it looks like I am 2 or 3 short, from filling the gap.
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DirtyKK

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i need to pick me up some of them washers to keep my d-rings tight on my detours backbone... (runs to ACE hardware)
 

LibertyTC

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Drying at home is the silicone of two washers on the bottom.
It was impossible to insert the two washers onto the bottom without securing them.
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Even with using 5 stainless washers, there still was some upward movement/ slack.
Instead of grinding a metal washer in half as a full one would not fit, I created these plastic washers, as the final shims!
 

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