Rear Pinion Bearings

[eric1514]

It looks like I'll be doing the rear diff. pinion bearings on my 2005 Liberty in the near future. For you folks that have done this job, how did you remove the inner bearing and how did you press a new bearing on? I don't own a press and I was wondering if there was another DIY way to press the bearing on.

Also, I'm looking at Rock Auto and it seems the "kits" for doing this job, also include the differential bearings. Replacing those looks above my pay grade. Did you folks just buy the parts individually?

TIA

 

[24turbo]

To remove the inner bearing, the easiest way is to get a bearing separator (and use a press). But you can also buy them with a puller. Here is an example (they can be found cheaper elsewhere):

5 Ton Bar Puller Separator Set

<p><CRLF>The 5 Ton Bar Puller Separator Set is a tool kit designed for efficient removal of bearings, pulleys, gears and bushings. Made from steel with a black phosphorous finish, this set includes key components to carry out a variety of removal and separation tasks required in automotive...

www.princessauto.com

As a cheap alternative I have cut bearings off with a zip wheel but being so close to the pinion gear it is hard to get into and you have to be very careful not to cut into the shaft.

To install the bearing you can use a long punch and keep tapping it alternating sides. It is slow but you can get it on that way. Back in the day I was told to use a brass punch, but if you dont beat the crap out of it, just use a steel punch. It will go quicker and the brass punch will need dressing alot as it is such soft material. Make sure the punch you use isnt so big round it contacts the outer steel roller retainer as you are hitting it.

If you buy the separator/puller combo you could do your carrier bearings with that also...

OR you can find a shop to do the pressing for you.

I have always found the rebuild kits more expensive than buying just the components you need.

 

[JeepJeepster]

If you dont want to use a press, I've used what 24turbo posted. You'll need to cut the cage off of the bearing and use that puller to pull the inner race off. It kinda *****.

I've since bought a bearing puller and it sure makes things a breeze. You can hammer on the new bearings. I would want a nice sleeve to slide over the pinion that fit the new bearing.

Carrier Bearing Puller Revolution Gear

revolutiongear.com

Just an FYI, you'll need the adjusting tools (or something home made) to adjust the carrier bearing preload/backlash. I recommend following the FSM closely.

I've ordered just the pinion bearings and I've also bought the entire kit. From what I remember, it wasn't much cheaper to buy the pinion bearings, races, seal, crush sleeve, and nut separately than it was to just buy the kit.

 

[eric1514]

I was under the impression that I would only need to adjust the preload and that depth and backlash on the carrier would not change if all I was doing was replacing the pinion bearings. I’m hoping that’s true.

 

[24turbo]

No. The differential carrier bearings are backed by threaded adjusters you can only adjust through the axle tube. I just built a tool with a hex nut and used a long extension. Adjusting them will change both backlash and carrier bearing preload. Not a difficult process but takes a bit of time.

Some differentials used shims to adjust preload and backlash on the carrier bearings, and you could change pinion bearings and just install the original shims back in and it would set everything were it was before you took it apart.
Not the case here.

 

[eric1514]

No. The differential carrier bearings are backed by threaded adjusters you can only adjust through the axle tube. I just built a tool with a hex nut and used a long extension. Adjusting them will change both backlash and carrier bearing preload. Not a difficult process but takes a bit of time.

Some differentials used shims to adjust preload and backlash on the carrier bearings, and you could change pinion bearings and just install the original shims back in and it would set everything were it was before you took it apart.
Not the case here.

So you are saying I need to back out the carrier bearing adjusters in order to remove the carrier. That's not good news.

 

[24turbo]

Yes. If I recall when you take off the carrier bearing caps they will fall out once you pull the carrier out.

To make a tool to adjust them when you re-install just find a 1 7/16” nut and also get a bolt,nut, and 2 washers. Ensure the bolt is small enough diameter it will fit through the centre of the bigger nut. Sandwich the 1 7/16 nut between the smaller bolt/nut with washers on each side. Tighten the crap out of it and you have the tool. Use whatever size socket you need for the smaller bolt on a really long extension to turn the adjuster from the end of the axle tube. Keep adjusting side to side with no preload until you get your backlash and the snug up the adjuster. I think a service manual steps it through fairly clearly

 

[eric1514]

The backlash and preload on the carrier seem pretty straightforward. So does the preload on the pinion. What concerns me is setting the pinion depth with paint.

Am I going to have to install the pinion, set its preload by crushing the sleeve, install the carrier, set its backlash and preload, measure the pinion depth by checking a paint pattern and if it’s not right, take everything apart and start over again with a new crush sleeve?

 

[duderz7]

If just replacing bearings and not regearing pinion depth should just be put back the same depth as long as it was done correctly in the first place. I'll echo to follow the service manual, and take your time. It's not hard it's a process.

 

[24turbo]

Check your pattern before and after but 99% of the time you will use the same shim under the bigger pinion bearing to set the depth, and it will be fine. I doubt you have to remove the pinion again.

But yes if you regear it is a process.

 

[JeepJeepster]

The side adjusters have pro's and con's. The only con I can think of is your situation. Its so nice being able to use those side adjusters when replacing bearings or gears since you can just change the backlash with a turn of the side adjusters. It makes your situation more work though.

I would want to measure the backlash before removing the carrier and try to get it back at that measurement.

 

[eric1514]

The side adjusters have pro's and con's. The only con I can think of is your situation. Its so nice being able to use those side adjusters when replacing bearings or gears since you can just change the backlash with a turn of the side adjusters. It makes your situation more work though.

I would want to measure the backlash before removing the carrier and try to get it back at that measurement.

I will definitely get the carrier backlash and preload correct. The tool is only $20 on Amazon and a reasonable dial indicator is around $30. I have the tools to set the pinion preload except for something to hold the yoke but they’re not expensive, either.

I’m going to only change the pinion bearings so it’s good to hear that the pinion depth has a good chance of being ok.

My only other question would if the noise I hear is infact the pinion bearings. Letting off the gas at freeway speeds causes a high pitched tone. Getting back on the pedal and putting on a load quiets everything down again. So those bearings are my best guess.

Thanks everyone for your help thus far.

 

[JeepJeepster]

Have you changed the oil lately? If so, how did it look? Any metal in it?

 

[derekj]

I will definitely get the carrier backlash and preload correct. The tool is only $20 on Amazon and a reasonable dial indicator is around $30. I have the tools to set the pinion preload except for something to hold the yoke but they’re not expensive, either.

I’m going to only change the pinion bearings so it’s good to hear that the pinion depth has a good chance of being ok.

My only other question would if the noise I hear is infact the pinion bearings. Letting off the gas at freeway speeds causes a high pitched tone. Getting back on the pedal and putting on a load quiets everything down again. So those bearings are my best guess.

Thanks everyone for your help thus far.

If you are going to the trouble of replacing pinion bearings why would you not replace the carrier bearings? It's not really any more work and the same tool can be used to remove the carrier bearings that you will use to replace the pinion bearings.

 

[24turbo]

I should probably clarify my earlier comments. This what I would do:

Check your pattern before disassembly. It should be fine. If it isn’t that would be a clue your pinion depth is wrong. I would be very surprised if it’s not OK. The pattern will not change significantly by just changing pinion bearings. If it does revisit and figure out why it changed.

Change your bearings and reassemble. I would set your backlash on the tighter side of middle of spec. (I respectfully disagree with setting back the way it was before disassembling). It was probably on the loose side as it tends to get looser over time. At this point check your pattern again. Should look a lot like it did previously. Don’t get overly hung up if your pattern isn’t an exact oval in the middle of the tooth. Sometimes they just aren’t as pretty as the picture in the manual and may not be exactly in the middle. You’ll end up chasing your tail for no benefit

It will be very obvious if your pattern isn’t right.

Best of luck!!

 

[eric1514]

Have you changed the oil lately? If so, how did it look? Any metal in it?

I changed it about a month ago. It didn't look bad. Not silvery and no chunks, but it was dark and old looking.

If you are going to the trouble of replacing pinion bearings why would you not replace the carrier bearings? It's not really any more work and the same tool can be used to remove the carrier bearings that you will use to replace the pinion bearings.

My thinking was to do as little as necessary so as to not disturb the pinion depth setting. I just want to get rid of the sound. I could be wrong and changing the carrier bearings will have no influence on pinion depth.

 

[eric1514]

I should probably clarify my earlier comments. This what I would do:

Check your pattern before disassembly. It should be fine. If it isn’t that would be a clue your pinion depth is wrong. I would be very surprised if it’s not OK. The pattern will not change significantly by just changing pinion bearings. If it does revisit and figure out why it changed.

Change your bearings and reassemble. I would set your backlash on the tighter side of middle of spec. (I respectfully disagree with setting back the way it was before disassembling). It was probably on the loose side as it tends to get looser over time. At this point check your pattern again. Should look a lot like it did previously. Don’t get overly hung up if your pattern isn’t an exact oval in the middle of the tooth. Sometimes they just aren’t as pretty as the picture in the manual and may not be exactly in the middle. You’ll end up chasing your tail for no benefit

It will be very obvious if your pattern isn’t right.

Best of luck!!

That's reassuring. I'm old and I will be working in less-than-ideal conditions. I don't want to make a career out of this job. I just want to learn how to do this and save money. I haven't priced someone else doing the work, but I have priced a rebuilt unit and it's almost what I paid for the whole car.