Please Verify My Potential Setup.

[John3seventeen]

Interesting findings. Not thinking it warrants another thread:

So the front strut assemblies look to be my biggest hurdle.

With the new springs, using a set of Advance Auto spring compressors looks to be not the brightest/safest move. Is it recommended to have them assembled at a shop with proper tools? If so, that also adds to build cost. What might something like that cost?

If you order from JeepinByAll they will assemble, I think they charge like $60 a side. Check their site for pricing. All J's also assembles.

 

[Hedsic]

You can have JBA do it for like $60. Probably find some place local for pretty cheap. Call around a few shops and ask. They should be able to tell you. Hell you might get lucky and a shop will want the good rep and just do it for the hell of it too.

 

[sprawlcowboy]

I believe I'm going to order the rear parts from Amazon (had a gift card), and the front parts from JBA and have them assemble them. Slightly more, but probably worth it.

 

[CactusJacked]

I've been weighing the pros and cons of getting the lift first or tires first. I've read conflicting reports that 245/75/16, under normal driving conditions and not under full lock (my typical driving style), will have very minimal rub. My thoughts are, if I get the lift first, would it be possible to then get 265/75/16?

Go with the lift first, that will leave you open to choose between a few different tire sizes later. At 22.25" (center of wheel to fender flare lip), my 265's (31.7" tall) rub on the front only when approaching full lock. Pinch weld clearancing is a given. I also used 1.5" spacer adapters to gain more clearance between tires and suspension, and to give it a much better looking stance with the stock wheels.

 

[sprawlcowboy]

Go with the lift first, that will leave you open to choose between a few different tire sizes later. At 22.25" (center of wheel to fender flare lip), my 265's (31.7" tall) rub on the front only when approaching full lock. Pinch weld clearancing is a given. I also used 1.5" spacer adapters to gain more clearance between tires and suspension, and to give it a much better looking stance with the stock wheels.

So with my set up (approximately), 1.5" wheel spacers, and some modding to the fender wells and pinch welds 265s are doable?

If you say that you get rub with the 1.5" spacers when approaching full lock, would you think that 1.25" or 1" spacers could accomplish your goal of moving the tires away from the suspension while also mitigating the rubbing caused by the 1.5" spacers?

 

[CactusJacked]

After I get home I can measure and let you know what I have between the suspension and widest part of the tire. Section width of the tire is another measure you have to take into account when figuring what will clear.

 

[John3seventeen]

So with my set up (approximately), 1.5" wheel spacers, and some modding to the fender wells and pinch welds 265s are doable?

If you say that you get rub with the 1.5" spacers when approaching full lock, would you think that 1.25" or 1" spacers could accomplish your goal of moving the tires away from the suspension while also mitigating the rubbing caused by the 1.5" spacers?

You do know that spacers cost almost as much as a set of wheels with correct backspacing right?

 

[CactusJacked]

That was a considered option, but I wanted to keep my body color matched renegade wheels.

 

[John3seventeen]

Understood , not sure if the OP was wanting to keep his or thought that was the only option.

 

[tommudd]

Most of the answers are great but it seems the OP isn't really reading what some are saying regarding tire size / lift height etc .
Read carefully and learn

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

So with my set up (approximately), 1.5" wheel spacers, and some modding to the fender wells and pinch welds 265s are doable?

If you say that you get rub with the 1.5" spacers when approaching full lock, would you think that 1.25" or 1" spacers could accomplish your goal of moving the tires away from the suspension while also mitigating the rubbing caused by the 1.5" spacers?

Spacers will actually make the rubbing worse. The arc or radius is increased when the wheels are pushed out further away from the hub. Moabs and other wheels with the same back spacing as them will also increase the arc and there is more rubbing than with stock wheels. The difference is Moabs don't push the tires out as far as 1.25" spacers. The 1.25" spacers are the thinnest you can get due to the length of the studs. Any thinner and the lugs will hit the back of the wheels.

I used the stock wheels when I first lifted and had zero rubbing. I put on spacers and I had lots of clearance issues. Put Moabs on and the rubbing went away thanks to all the clearancing I had to do for the spacers.

My 2 cents...

Bob

 

[Porkchop]

With out spacers and stock wheels my tires will rub the JBA UCA. I am lifted to the max and I also run 265 75 16s though. I had to make adjustable LCA bump stop so my tires don't rub on the front sway bar on hi speed turns.

 

[tommudd]

Moabs, 265-75-16s-lifted some, very little rubbing on the sway bar ONLY when fully cranked which I never do so no worries

BUT if the OP would just go 245-75-16s on stock wheels with the suggested lift there would be no issues and not as much power or mileage loss

just thought I'd throw that in there in case he hasn't thought about that yet

 

[CactusJacked]

After I get home I can measure and let you know what I have between the suspension and widest part of the tire. Section width of the tire is another measure you have to take into account when figuring what will clear.

With 1.5" spacers, I have a tight 1.75" between the sidewall and the upper control arm (the nearest obstruction). Without spacers, the tire would certainly rub the uca as she sways in a turn.

 

[sprawlcowboy]

Most of the answers are great but it seems the OP isn't really reading what some are saying regarding tire size / lift height etc .
Read carefully and learn

I was going based off what I was told:

At 22.25" (center of wheel to fender flare lip), my 265's (31.7" tall) rub on the front only when approaching full lock. Pinch weld clearancing is a given. I also used 1.5" spacer adapters to gain more clearance between tires and suspension, and to give it a much better looking stance with the stock wheels.

From this post, one can infer that 265s are doable with the OP lift and spacers. As spacers weren't listed in the original post build, their suggestion implied they would alleviate rubbing that could've been caused by the lift we all agreed on but with slightly larger tires instead of the previously agreed upon 245/75s.

But as previously agreed, I'll be doing the plates, springs, shocks, pucks, ISOs, 245/75s, then down the road UCAs.

Thanks again everyone.

 

[Hedsic]

I was going based off what I was told:

At 22.25" (center of wheel to fender flare lip), my 265's (31.7" tall) rub on the front only when approaching full lock. Pinch weld clearancing is a given. I also used 1.5" spacer adapters to gain more clearance between tires and suspension, and to give it a much better looking stance with the stock wheels.

From this post, one can infer that 265s are doable with the OP lift and spacers. As spacers weren't listed in the original post build, their suggestion implied they would alleviate rubbing that could've been caused by the lift we all agreed on but with slightly larger tires instead of the previously agreed upon 245/75s.

But as previously agreed, I'll be doing the plates, springs, shocks, pucks, ISOs, 245/75s, then down the road UCAs.

Thanks again everyone.

Dont' forget one of the most important things needed if going with 265's. You will need a regear.

 

[sprawlcowboy]

Just sold the nitrous system I took out of the mustang. Gonna get the UCAs with everything at once.

 

[CactusJacked]

Dont' forget one of the most important things needed if going with 265's. You will need a regear.

That's why I like having a manual trans, that's where the lower gears are. Comparing final drive 1st gears between his automatic and my manual, he would have to have 4.92 gears in the rear to equal my 3.73's.

 

[tommudd]

But if you regeared even with your manual you'd get better mileage and more power, proven fact

 

[CactusJacked]

Simple math would dictate that there'd be a performance drop, but my butt dyno didn't really notice a difference. If someone buys a Liberty with performance in mind, they're sadly disappointed, that's not what they're made for. I do have a couple other good outlets to cure an itchy right foot anyway.
As far as gas mileage savings, let's say I could save a whopping 2 mpg. I put on approximately 5k miles per year. 2 mpg less @3.85/gal equates to costing an extra $119 per year. Changing f&r diff gears; gears & install kits: $716~$916 (JBA prices). Labor: depending on local shop rates, you could be looking at upwards of $1k to replace both sets, maybe more. After sales tax and other incidentals, I'd be looking in the $2k range to save $119 per year on gas. Simple math again means my payback (gear upgrade vs extra gas cost) would be 16.8 years. Not to mention, that's one lump sum out of pocket, as opposed to extra gas costing just a little bit at a time. That's also figuring gas prices don't skyrocket as well. Am I still going to have my Liberty in 16.8 years? lmao. I'm not going to have it 6.8 years from now. I'm much better off taking that $2k and investing it in something that's going to yield a healthy payback by the end of those 16.8 years. Changing gears for the sake of saving gas is a huge exercise in futility.