P0500 nuff said

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Jbergun

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I was able to test the new connector and it is putting out 13.5v when running the sensor has a resistance of 2.7 ohms. I wouldnt start out with any codes they come up after running it a while. The p0201 code has not come back since this all started. I will attempt to make a video later today. Maybe hearing it and seeing how it runs will help.
 

Jbergun

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My father in law seems to think it is related to the fuel pump. How its running he said feels just like their dodge nitro did when his pump went bad. What do you guys think?
 

uss2defiant

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i don't think there's a way to test fuel pressure at the pump.
fuel rail would be it.

Although I wonder if a couple of good whacks on the fuel tank would get the pump to work normally momentarily.
 

libordemise

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Where do i test the pressure at the pump or under the hood
There is a schraeder ( spelling?) valve looking thing on the fuel rail just below the coolant overflow, I recently replaced my fuel pump it was a catastrophe of a job, but it was definitely time to do it, I still need to do the fuel filter to complete the job..

My most noticeable symptom was a loud constant shriek when the engine was running, chicks definitely wanted to go for a ride with that going on. Secondly I noticed a definite lag in throttle response, mostly on inclines them the throttle would be sporadic, like there was something in the way of re fuel flow. Hope it helps

Sent from my LG-K210 using Tapatalk
 

turblediesel

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Off the wall ideas...

I forgot to reconnect the vaccuum line to the brake booster, (Fiat), and got those symptoms so maybe a vaccuum leak?

O2 sensor went bad, (Ford), and got huge drivability problems and rich running with black exhaust.

Just some ideas...
 

Jbergun

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Fuel pressure was 15 replaced the fuel filter and i am at 50 but the p0500 came back and it is still running like shit
 

Jbergun

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If anyone has a minute could they test the resistance of the speed sensor. Maybe the new one i got is shit from the get go. Its a duralast they didnt have mopar. The only other thing i could think of is the wiring is shorted somewhere but i am getting good voltage at the sensor. I think i will pull the diff cover and see whats going on in there.
 
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Jbergun

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Does anyone know if the two transmission speed sensors on the 45rfe could throw this code.
 

rigid

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not that it helps at this point .. but I just had the same repair on an 02 a month or so ago . Abs/brake light came on and speedometer started jumping around then quit all together . It did not affect driving at all . I drove it 40 miles a day for 4 days before I could get to it .
I did not see anything in the wiring as far back as it went into the body area so I replaced the sensor . wrong move . Got one of the kids to cycle the key and had no voltage to end of loom . looked perfect though . Replaced connector and fixed everything . sorry not of much help ,but it seems there may be more than one problem ?

it was also p500 code
 
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Jbergun

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not that it helps at this point .. but I just had the same repair on an 02 a month or so ago . Abs/brake light came on and speedometer started jumping around then quit all together . It did not affect driving at all . I drove it 40 miles a day for 4 days before I could get to it .
I did not see anything in the wiring as far back as it went into the body area so I replaced the sensor . wrong move . Got one of the kids to cycle the key and had no voltage to end of loom . looked perfect though . Replaced connector and fixed everything . sorry not of much help ,but it seems there may be more than one problem ?

it was also p500 code

Yea just ***** to only get the one code over and over. Like i have cleared the code done something then started it and after a few minutes of running like crap the code comes back. I am just shocked at how 1 day running on the highway like a champ to wont even idle.
 

Jbergun

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Ok lets start from the beginning. P0500 how do i test the connector? The connector should have volage i am guessing? How do i test the sensor? Is there any other sensor or anything that would cause my kj not to idle and run like its misfiring withouth throwing a misfire code?

I took out my IAC yesterday and it was covered in black. I cleaned it up but this didnt help at all. My father in law believes it has to do with the transmission speed sensors. How do i test them (sensors/connectors)? I am open to ideas if i can do something to confirm or deny a problem i will do it.
 

tjkj2002

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Ok lets start from the beginning. P0500 how do i test the connector? The connector should have volage i am guessing? How do i test the sensor? Is there any other sensor or anything that would cause my kj not to idle and run like its misfiring withouth throwing a misfire code?

I took out my IAC yesterday and it was covered in black. I cleaned it up but this didnt help at all. My father in law believes it has to do with the transmission speed sensors. How do i test them (sensors/connectors)? I am open to ideas if i can do something to confirm or deny a problem i will do it.

If your not throwing P0700/P0715/P0720 it's not the trans input/output speed sensors.

You may need to have a actual scanner pull the codes,most code pullers will not pull trans codes beside P0700.

The rear wheel speed sensor produces a AC signal,you need a scope to properly test it and they are not cheap.

2 cheap and easy known fixes on a KJ for P0500.

1-Remove diff cover,clean inside of the housing very good.This may take 4-6 cans of brake cleaner.Make sure any trace of metal and/or clutch material(if you have the trashloc) are gone.

2-Replace sensor with OEM only sensor then re-seal and refill diff with proper gear oil and/or friction modifier(if you have the trashloc).


If that fails to fix the issue get a new pigtail connector from the dealer and pull the rear seats out to access the rear connector located under the left rear seat.Run new wires from that connector to the wheel speed sensor.Make sure to twist the wires like in the pic below(granted you will only have 2 wires).

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uss2defiant

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pin 1,closest to the locking tab, is a 12V supply.

The other is the speed sensor. It'll a hall effect sensor so if you're not spinning the rear wheels there's no signal.

Vehicle Speed System - NON-ABS Equipped
- The BCM provides a 12VDC hard wire speed sensor
supply to the Rear Wheel speed sensor. The speed
sensor outputs a hard wire square wave signal back
to the BCM. The BCM calculates vehicle speed based
upon a programmed Tire Revolutions per mile (TIRE
REV/MILE) value. This calculation is based tire circumference
revolutions per mile. This calculation
must be programmed into the BCM. New service
BCM’s are shipped in default mode that prevents
speedometer indication until a valid tire size is programmed.
The BCM outputs a hard wired square
wave Vehicle Speed Output signal to the PCM. The
PCM transmits vehicle speed to the instrument cluster
via the PCI bus.
 
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